PARTS FOR POWER WHEELS EXTREME MACHINE

Completely dead is usually:
a corroded battery cable near the connectors, -cut off corroded end & refasten or replace cable.
a loose or in adequately tightened terminal connector, -replace terminal or cable
bolt off starter motor, -replace or repair bolt.
battery plates out of alignment, -replace battery tray \, hold downs & battery.
A blown fuse is rarely the problem.
Good luck.

Melted means overload, blown means a short, possible causes-bad connection on battery leads, motor brushes worn, shorted wiring in motor or bad bearing, brake dragging on wheel, motor controller going bad. Check it with wheels off the ground , try to isolate what is binding , causing overload on the motor.

Check the battery voltage right after the charger shuts off. Should be around 13 volts on each one. Short the power switch contacts and if that helps replace it. Check that the motor and wheel turn freely and dont make noise. Check all the contoller connectors. Sometimes they melt and the connection isnt good. You can always connect the batteries directly to the motor and if it goes full speed then you need what razor calls an electrical kit which has a throttle and controller.

ignition switch

You need to find the short. Since you replaced the Alternator we will assume the diodes in the new part are okay. It depends on how much time you want to spend in finding the short.

To find it yourself, you are basically trying to find a part that is connected to a ground when it should be off. Since electric flows to a ground, if you connect an Ohmmeter to the power(Plus) side of a fixture, a part, or a connector, that item should never connect to a ground. When you find that mystery item that makes the Ohmmeter needle move, that will be the short.

By disconnecting the plus+ cable from the battery, the bad part will continue to be connected to the ground through the defective part. Once you disconnect the bad part, the Ohmmeter should drop to zero. You could then monitor the Ohmmeter as you pull and replace the fuses in the fuse panel.

When you find the grounded circuit, the needle will drop and then you check that circuit.

Relays can stick on after the ignition is turned off. These are a bit harder to confirm by the above method because the relay will break connection after the power cable is removed from the battery. But if you disconnect a battery cable after parking for the night, then reconnect immediately afterwards, if your battery still dies after a week,it probably is not relay problems. But if this helps, then a Relay is staying on after the ignition is shut off. You have simply used a different way of killing power.

If time is a factor, a machine was developed for Dealers to do this job. Basically it hooks up to various body connections and reads the wiring. Once a say 100 pin connector is hooked up, the machine tests all 100, connection by connection.

The machine reduces the time spent on a Technician doing it the first way.

replace the starter. the solenoid has shorted to power.

OK, we'll start with thesecond question. The reason you have three wires going into the positive connector is because you NEED three of them for everything to work. The largest of the three wires goes to the starter motor. You need this large wire to provide enough power to the starter motor so it can crank the engine. The other wires would burn if you tried to put that much power through them. One of the smaller wires goes to the output terminal from the alternator. Without this one, your alternator would not charge your battery and you would be doing a lot of "pushing" to make your Land Rover move. Then last, but not least, the third wire supplies power to the main fuse block under the hood. Without this wire, nothing in your vehicle would work. This supplies power for your engine controls, your power windows, radio, headlamps, interior lamps. etc. etc. etc...

Now for the FIRST question. Yes, it is common practice to simply cut the old corroded connector off of the battery cables and install a replacement connector. Sometimes this is a little tough because the cables can be a little short to begin with.

Anyway, you want to cut the cables as close as possible to the original connector. Then strip the wire insulation so you have about 1/2 inch of wire exposed. Now here's where things can get bad...if the wire is corroded and green, then you have to cut it back farther until you get wire that is clean. Sometimes, by the time you find good wire inside the insulation, the cables have been cut too short to reach the battery post. There are parts available to remedy these things.
If you do not have to cut too much wire off, you can use a simple bolt-on battery connector. If the cables have to be cut back too much, there are cable "splicers available so you can add some wire to the end of the cable. (See the pictures below)These parts are available at most any parts retailer.

Either the cable from the battery to the starter is shorted or the starter motor itself has a dead short or the starter relay has a short. As soon as the key is turned, the starter relay is closing and all the power of the battery is heading for the short to ground. That's why the power seems to be lost.

change the blower motor instructions

Disconnect the negative battery cable.

Disconnect the blower motor lead connector from the wiring harness connector.

Remove the blower motor cooling tube from the blower motor.

Remove the four retaining screws.

Turn the motor and the wheel assembly slightly to the right so that the bottom edge of the mounting plate follows the contour of the wheel well splash panel.

Lift up on the blower and remove it from the blower housing.

Installation the new blower motor by reversing the removal steps.

Connect the negative battery cable. below

My Pride Colt XL8 keeped cutting out (7 flashes of LED, Speed pot error) , checked all the cable connections up tiller arm as recommended by Pride technical support, worked for about a week, then problem returned. Eventually took to Pride dealer, with problem occasional occurring,they found it to be the lower tiller cable support bracket straining the cables connector intermittently and so removed the bracket, the problem then was solved !