Wiring instructions for TR7730 combination switch/outlet

What device are you replacing... a switch or a outlet?

1) If you are replacing a switch with 3 or 4 wires?
That is either a 3-way switch, 4-way switch, or a DPDT switch and cannot be replaced with GFCI

2) If you are replacing outlet with 4 wires, then it can be replaced with GFCI combo.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-GFCI.html#8

3) If you are replacing ordinary single-pole switch, then you can replace with GFCI combo IF the box has a neutral wire
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-GFCI.html#6

4) You can install GFCI protection on any circuit by installing GFCI earlier in the circuit.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Basic-house-wiring.html


Gene

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-switches.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-combination-switch-outlet.html

Gene

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

I've copied instructions from an Amazon review.
worse than worthless and border on dangerous. Be forewarned, and allow some time to install it correctly; and don't expect any help from the included paperwork.

IMPORTANT THINGS TO KNOW:

- There is no ON/OFF indicated on the switch or the instructions, so there is no way to know which direction is on or off. The picture included is upside down, and shown in the OFF position. If you install it with the switch on top, it will work intuitively with the switch up for ON and down for OFF. (Should be common sense, but doesn't say it anywhere, and the text on the device and photo suggests otherwise.)

In short, here's what the directions should say:

Before you begin -> Leave yellow sticker over top connections unless you want to add downstream GFCI protected outlets/lights - that's straightforward.

1) Strip all connections to 1/2", and use the holes on back of receptacle for direct connection.
2) Connect wires from breaker into terminals in back of switch/outlet. (Hot=Black-Gold; Neutral=White-Silver)
3) Connect white wire from light into extra hole next to the white wire from breaker.
4) Connect one short black wire from outlet into the hole next to black wire from breaker.
(this means all four holes are now filled)
5) Connect remaining black wire sticking out of receptacle directly to the black wire from your light.
6) Ensure all ground lines are properly connected.
7) Push into box, install cover plate and enjoy.

NOTE: This will result in the GFCI working properly, with no GFCI protection for the light. This is the recommended install, so that if the GFCI trips you won't be in the dark. If you want GFCI protection for the light as well, simply modify step 4 and insert the black pigtail into the hot terminal under the sticker.

The directions offer myriad ways to connect this, but are incredibly hard to decipher because the text does not agree with the diagrams. I believe that diagram B1 was the one that 95% of people will need...

Hi Dave,
Great description, but you never mentioned what you are
using the switch for. I can explain in detail, but I need to
know if the switch load is coming from the same cable or
an additional one.

Are you installing a combination switch-outlet?
What are you replacing? A switch? Is switch single pole or 3-way?
Or are you replacing outlet.
Do you have the Cooper TR274V?
Which device do you have?
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-Replace-outlet-with-combo-switch.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-combination-switch-outlet.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-switches.html#5245

Gene
hh

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

Do you have combination switch outlet?
Copy following link:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-combination-switch-outlet.html

Add comment with more information as needed.
Gene
h

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

If it worked before, it should be a wire to wire replacement. You are replacing a regular switch/outlet with another switch/outlet which just happens to be a GFI outlet.
Wire the old switch wires to the new switch and the old outlet wires to the new outlet.
Cut the breaker/s off first !!

How many sets of wires are coming into the box?
If the box is in the middle of the circuit you will have a power-source black & white wire coming in and a power-source black & white wire going out. And in this case for the switch - there must be a black and a white wire going to a light.

Typically with a switch/outlet combination all the white wires will splice together with a white pig-tail wire to feed the neutral side of the device. The two black wires from the power-source will splice together with a black pig-tail and feed the hot-side of the device. The black wire going to the light will go on one side of the switch.

Looking at outlet/switch device from the front the large slot side of the outlet will be the neutral side and the smaller outlet slot will be the hot side. The neutral side screws will be steel colored and the hot side screws will be brass colored. The white wires will go to the neutral side steel colored screws, and the black wires will go on the hot side brass colored screws on the outlet.

The black wire comig into the box from the light is called a switchleg and goes to a brass screw on one side of the switch. The brass screw on the otherside of the switch will be for the black wire coming from the power-source.

Hope this helps - and please:

TURN THE BREAKER OFF BEFORE YOU START WORKING WITH THE WIRES!

If the switch is an integral part of the GFCI outlet then it shouldn't need wiring.
I'm running on the assumption that your outlet is the same as those I have installed myself...
To wire a switch AFTER a GFCI...
There should be two brass coloured and two silver coloured screws on the outlet. The power from your panel attaches to the screws marked LINE and the wires that go to the switch are attached to the screws marked LOAD. This protects anything plugged into the outlet as well as the "fixture" served by the switch.
One VERY important issue is the grounding...Cut yourself a small (7" should do, 10" is about the limit) of bare groundwire from a spare piece of cable and marrette this "pigtail" with the two ground wires inside the box, then attach the end of the "pigtail" to the green screw on the GFCI.
As an added safety step, I run the "pigtail" around the green screw of the outlet and the ground screw of the metal box you're working in.
The wiring then goes to the switch where the black wire can be cut, then each end is wired to the screws and the white wire is continuous to the fixture

power coming in from the breaker box: black wire will go to line-hot screw, and the white wire will go to the line-white screw. the switch wires coming out of the back of the gfci- 1 will go to the load-hot screw & the other black wire will wire nut to the black wire going to the light. the white wire going to the light must go to the load-white screw.