Auger clutch lever disengages even though drive clutch lever is squeezed

To engage or disengage the drive motors: 1. Locate the manual freewheel levers at the front of the chair. See figure 5. 2. Push the levers down to engage the drive motors (drive mode). See figure 8. 3. Pull the levers upward to disengage the drive motors (freewheel mode). See figure 9.
If a lever is difficult to move in either direction, rock your power chair back and forth slightly. The lever should then move to the desired position Manual link below.
https://www.pridemobility.com/pdf/owners_manuals/us_jazzy/us_jazzy_select_7_om.pdf

Either two things come to mind, first I would check the shear pins. When a shear pin is broken, the auger turns but stops as soon as it hits a load (snow). The shaft is turning, but there's no mechanical connection between the shaft and the auger.

The second thing is the belt either needs adjusting or replaced. Belt adjustments should be checked before every winter and are simple to preform. When checking the drive and auger belts, look for glazed running surfaces, and cracking. Either sign means the belt(s) need replacing. Also if the belt(s) have streched beyond their normal adjustment.

What do you mean when you say you fixed the cable. It sounds like the cable broke and you replaced it. Is that correct. If so, did you adjust the free play in the clutch pedal to the manufacturers specification. If you have not done this correctly the clutch will either not disengage, or no engage properly. From your description it appears as though there is n free play and hence the clutch is staying disengaged even when you release the clutch pedal. If this is the case, then try lengthening the cable until the clutch pedal moves with say 25 mm of free movement before anything happens, and try again.

Hi Brenda,

This machine makes use of two levers on the handle. The right controls the drive and the left controls the auger. When both are released, the drive wheels and the auger should stop. The impeller (the part inside that pushes snow up and out of the chute) will run as long as the motor is running and not controlled by the levers.

You said the auger continues to spin even when the lever is released. Both levers are connected by a flexible, thin, steel cable that extends down to a "wheel" or pulley assembly that is held in place by two hex nut bolts to the rear (operator position) corners of the machine. The steel cable should be ON the wheel - not hanging in free air and not wedged between the pulley and pulley support. Loosening the bolts and adjusting the pulley UPWARD should reduce tension / provide SLACK required to disengage the auger when the lever is released (adjust for a *small* amount of slack only). Positioning the pulley DOWNWARD increases tension that reduces the amount travel the lever needs to ENGAGE the auger. The pulley assembly position needs to be adjusted so that when the lever is released, the auger shuts off, and when squeezed, the auger turns on. These same adjustment procedures can be used for the DRIVE lever control, too.

If you are unable to adjust the cable so that there is a little slack, then there is a problem with the cable at the other end - inside the machine. It will require someone who is mechanically inclined - or snow blower serviceman to adjust / repair this for you if you lack the tools and understanding to do the work yourself. It is not likely to be an expensive repair, however. You should ask for an estimate or be given the opportunity to authorize repairs before they are started.

I hope this helps and good luck!

One of the grip levers should engage a clutch that controls the augers. The other grip lever should engage a clutch to drive the wheels. Figure out which is which, and track the linkage from that lever down to the gearbox between the augers and the impeller. See if there's an adjustment you can make there.

If not... the gearbox may be damaged, possibly by hitting a solid object with hardened bolts in the place of your shear pins. ALWAYS use soft shear pins!

adjust the cable for the auger , easy

follow this steps and fix it. God bless you

Clutch

If the chainsaw chain does not engage the clutch assembly might be worn out. The clutch is similar to an automotive clutch. The chain sprocket is attached to the clutch drum and there are clutch pads underneath. As the pads wear out the clutch assembly no longer engages with the motor and the chain does not engage either.

Clutch Band kit

Chainsaws are equipped with a clutch band, a steel band that wraps around the clutch drum and is activated by the emergency stop lever. If the lever does not disengage the chain does not engage. Check to be sure the stop lever is disengaged. Adjust the clutch band if necessary.
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Drum Brake

Chainsaws are equipped with a clutch band drum brake, a steel band that wraps around the clutch drum and is activated by the emergency stop lever. If the lever does not disengage the chain does not engage. Check to be sure the stop lever is disengaged. If necessary, adjust the clutch band drum brake.

You will need to slightly loosen the line where it goes into the master cylinder,...then squeeze the lever and hold it in...fluid should come out. While holding lever in,re-tighten bolt. You should get a lil bit of lever feel now. Making sure there is fluid in the resrvoir,...squeeze lever multiple times,and hold it in,....loosen the banjo bolt again,...slowly,..untill fluid rushes out. Then,..while holding lever in,retighten banjo bolt again. Check fluid,...then pump the lever multiple times again,and you should be getting some good lever feel now. After this,you may need to bleed the air out at the bleeder a couple times till alll the air is out.

Take cover off the clutch reservoir and check the fluid level. Fill it if necessary. Look for leaks between the clutch lever/reservoir, down the hose to the clutch slave cylinder. If no leaks visible, slowly squeeze clutch lever and release, watching for air or fluid pumping in the reservoir. Repeat until clutch has a solid pull. If the pull doesn't improve and stay good, you'll need to bleed the hose and slave cylinder. Locate the bleed valve at the clutch, squeeze the lever till it's a good solid pull, hold it in, and open the bleed valve. Watch for air bubbles. After doing this several times, you should get nothing but fluid. Refill the reservoir and close it. Good riding