Kettle parts our handle has broken on our 2.1 litre kettle can we but a new one ? many thanks

The battery is rechargeable.

c) Battery
The battery can be removed and replaced by user because it is placed inside the handle (3). The battery
life is over 2 years. After that period the battery still has 70% capacity. When the display (2) cannot stay ON,
while the kettle (4) is removed from the power base (5), means that the battery has reached its minimum
level capacity.

Contact an authorised Bugatti Customer Service Center in order to change the battery : the service center
will send you the battery pack and its replacement instruction. Attention : remember that the batteries are
consumable parts and they are out of warranty
Vera Bugatti Owner Manual Page 17

did you throw the broken parts away i hope not, because that broken parts can be fix

Buy a new kettle as the labour of a repair will be more than its worth.

Hi Julie - This is likely a Target Michael Graves product . Generally , parts for the Target Graves products are not sold . I am not familair with the size of the whistler you need . The only Michael Graves replacement kettle whistle available is the Alessi version .

Replacement parts for Russell Hobbs kettles are available here:

http://www.directpartsandproducts.com/russellhobbs-kettles-c-55_1111_1212_1229.html?osCsid=5kjs46s0g583p8ljos3hp0pa41

I don't see your model so would suggest you contact then through their website:

http://www.directpartsandproducts.com/contact_us.php?osCsid=5kjs46s0g583p8ljos3hp0pa41

It's possible it can be fixed. Ours also no longer clicked. I took it apart and found that the flat plastic piece in the handle that activates the circuitry in the base had broken away from the rocker piece in the base. Fortunately the same flat plastic piece conveniently had a couple of holes in it in a helpful location. I looped some wire through the holes and also around the bottom rocker piece to hold the two pieces together.
I reassembled the kettle and tried it out and it now works fine! Problem fixed.
To disassemble, take the four screws out of the bottom of the kettle. (You'll need the appropriate star bits to do so.) Put those screws in a safe location... Lift off the bottom plate.
Now, the plastic for the handle is held in place by the typical notched clasps used by so many plastic appliances. You unsnap the clasps by CAREFULLY inserting a straight blade screw driver between the handle plastic and the kettle and GENTLY prying the handle plastic away from the kettle. You'll hear the internal clasps "popping" as they snap loose. You CANNOT take the handle all the way off this way. You just loosen it. Now, the top of the handle is a separate piece. Do the same for this. The top will pop completely off.
Next, GENTLY remove the lid. You can slide it a bit up and away. It's a tight fit, so you need to use a little force, but not too much.
Once you've done this, there are two metal pins that hold the main part of the handle to the kettle. They have a little ridge around the top that you can use to pry them out with your fingernail. Once those pins are removed, the handle will simply come off.
BE CAREFUL! The various parts in the handle are now loose! If you aren't careful they'll fall off and you'll have to figure out how to reassemble them.
Now, you'll notice the long flat plastic piece running down the side of the kettle. That piece was hidden behind the handle. It is SUPPOSED to be fastened to a rocker plate at the bottom. If you look at the end of the flat piece at the bottom you will likely see what I did. It had just disconnected from the rocker plate. Take some wire and wire the two pieces together using the little hole-like slots at the end of the flat piece. Just loop the wire through the hole and down around the rocker plate piece exposed inside where the handle is.
While applying this wire, it will be helpful to put a little masking tape across the various handle pieces to keep them from falling off. This is important because you'll probably be wiring the pieces together with the kettle on its side like I did, and the parts will fall off if you aren't careful. When you are done wiring things together you just remove the tape.
Once you've done this, reassemble the kettle in the reverse order you disassembled it.
You'll notice that once you've wired together the two separated pieces, pressing the switch on the top pulls up on the flat plastic piece which pulls the rocker plate which closes the circuit in the base.

The crank handle screws in counter-clockwise so it doesn't unscrew when you dump the kettle. Try that.

That is correct, the flat plastic rod that pulls when you depress the on/off button is attached to a switch lever under the bottom of the handle. The rod in mine broke off right where it connects to that switch lever. You can either try and find the new or used part, Braun may have new, I have not tried their 800 number, can't hurt? I fix everything from scratch though and rebuild when I can especially if parts are scarce or obsolete. So I used some marine putty to affix the rod end back to the lever. Marine putty is a stick with two putties you roll together for a rock hard compound, awesome stuff. You can get at Wally World or hardware, auto parts, boat supply stores. I also drilled very small holes in the broken rod on each side and the lever on each side and threaded some thin stainless steel wire through, just looped it around without twisting it togethor before putting the putty over it for a permanent, wire reinforced, fix.The handle is not screwed on exception of one little torx screw at very bottom of handle on base. The handle just snaps together. The base or bottom and 3 screws do not need to be removed either for this rod and lever fix. Remove the top 'cover' piece of the handle first, then remove the two brass pins under it at top next to the on/off button second. So, the handle 'snaps' off with a lock blade knife or equivalent, get under the handle pieces with knife edge and twist the blade, it will pop off as you go, be prepared to break a few little hook pieces off underneath, they break but it seems to snap back on ok anyway. Crazy glue alone won't hold these plastic pieces together btw, try another way, wire and putty, maybe a plastic welding kit etc.. Mine works great again, once I got the lever reattached to the rod.