I put in a new Living Air XL-15 fan but no go.

Continuity is one way, they need to be able to conduct. If they are ceramic- use a test meter. If they are glass, does the wire reach from end to end or it melted? Does it resemble an old flash bulb that had been used? If so, or no continuity- replace fuse.

Also clean the contacts for the ionizer plate.

TEST THE CONTINUITY OF THE BULB AND THE WIRING AND THE PARTS INSIDE.


DOES THE UNIT STILL WORKS NORMALLY ASIDE FROM THE BULB?

It sounds like all you need are new plates. You can order them directly from the company. (Now called Vollara). 1-800-989-2299, ask for ceramic plates, and give the number 16618 as your dealer (referral) ID.

The metal contactors and the wire spade connectors get pretty corroded and can cause continuity problems . I have had to replace those spade connectors and clean the metal contactors with emry sand cloth. Another trick is to soak the plate in ammonia to reduce the corrosion present on the grids

If it's an XL-15 or Classic, there are four screws through the bottom that hold the main chassis in-place. But first:

1) Unplug the unit, and remove the lint filter in back.

2) You'll need to remove the power switch (carefully pry out with a screwdriver or putty knife), disconnect the spade terminals (note which wires attach to which terminals), and remove the knobs for Fan and Ozone controls.

3) Remove the four screws. As the chassis slides out the back, you'll need to disconnect the spade terminals to the fan motor as well.

Clean thoroughly, make sure everything is re-assembled with good connections in reverse-order. Be particularly careful to leave any sensors clean and connected.

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look through the front grill while its "on" you should see a glow from a neon lamp inside. If its not on chances are the circuit card is dead (should have about 350VDC plate voltage).
I have a used but good board if anyone needs one.
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My XL-15 had the same problem a few years ago. I had a broken wire on the fan, and the Ozone problem turned out to be a problem with the power supply. I had to send it in to have it repaired.

pull out the plates and clean contacts that touch plates with rubber eraser then put plates back in check switch on back of screen to make sure its making contact.
~~~creekkid~~~

Confirm that the appropriate sections of the circuitry are powered up and drawing power; check the interlock switch action; toss it back to the maker because the Hi-V transformer or ladder circuit or sense or hold caps were (if testing proves) never quite functional.

The fan motor is probably locked up. You can either put a little oil to free it up (usually a temporary fix) or better yet replace the fan motor.