Wiring with only 2 wires; which terminals to connect?

Intermatic phone number: 815-675-7076

T104RT3 has 120Volt 300 watt transformer with 12-13-14Volt output.

The timer mechanism is 240Volt T104M.

Since both 120Volt and 240Volt are needed, the wire coming from breaker box should have 2 Hots and a neutral, plus the ground wire.
So you need 12-3 with/ground wire or 10-3 with/ground wire.
See image of typical wires plus ratings:
http://waterheatertimer.org/Color-codewire.html
See example image showing 2 hots and neutral and ground coming from breaker box:
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/Basic-240-Volt-water-heater-circuit-2.jpg

The 2 hot wires come from a 240Volt circuit breaker.
The neutral comes from the neutral busbar, or can be accessed from tying into any white neutral on nearby 120Volt outlet.

How to wire timer:
Connect 240Volt hot wires to terminals 1 and 3 on timer. Connect 240Volt timed output to terminals 2 and 4 on timer.

How to wire transformer:
Connect 120Volt transformer two different ways. (a) white wire connects to neutral wire and black wire connects to terminal 1 on timer. With this wiring, the transformer is ON at all times. (b) white wire connects to neutral wire and black wire connects to terminal 2 on timer. With this wiring, the transformer will be ON when timer turns on.
Do not put both stranded wire and copper wire under same screw terminal. Instead connect transformer wire to solid copper wire using wire nut.

You have Intermatic 240Volt sprinkler timer.
http://www.intermatic.com/~/media/files/intermatic/products/instructions/timers/r8816p101c%20-%20english.ashx

Timer relay has 4 wiring terminals: from left to right 1 2 3 4
Red wires from switch connect to terminals 1 and 3
Red wires to pump connect to terminals 2 and 4
Since circuit is 240Volt, red wires from switch can be connected in either order. Same with pump.

Rain sensor terminals don't have any wires, unless you but separate rain sensor.

Parts:
http://waterheatertimer.org/Intermatic-trippers-and-parts.html#sprinkler

T51211BC is 120Volt timer that can be wired many different ways because there are two internal relays, and each relay has NO and NC terminals. One relay is controlled by timer dial trippers, and other relay controlled by dawn-dusk photo eye

Timer wiring cannot be fully explained with words.
Below is basic hook-up for your 120Volt wiring application, and then you can use a tester and experiment with the knob settings, and tripper settings.
http://www.intermatic.com/products/ec%204%20layer/mechanical%20time%20switches/24%20hour%207%20day/t50000%20series%207-day%20time%20switch.aspx

1) You have 4 cables:
one cable from circuit breaker box;
one cable going to photo control;
one cable going to outdoor Load (lite);
one cable going to indoor Load (lite).

2) Cable from circuit breaker has 2 wires:
Black Hot wire connects to terminal 1
White Neutral connects to terminal 2
This will power the clock motor and timer relays.

3) Photocell has 3 wires:
Black connects to terminal 1
White to terminal 2
Red to terminal 3.
Photocell turns relay on-off for Circuit B
Do not mix different size wires under same screw terminal, or smaller wire will come loose over time. Also do not mix stranded wire and solid copper under same screw terminal for same reason.

4) Terminals 4 thru 12 are 'dry'.
Dry terminals receive no power when power is applied to terminals 1 and 2.
To put power on dry terminals, so that Load will have power, attach Black hot wire from breaker to terminals 9 and 12.
So add a jumper wire from terminal 1 to terminal 9 and another jumper wire from terminal 9 to terminal 12.
120Volt power is now connected to terminals 1, 9 and 12

5) Circuit B is dawn to dusk for outdoor Load.
Outdoor load cable has Black and White wire.
Connect outdoor Black wire to either terminal 10 or 11.
To test which is correct for your application, set switch to Auto, and then test across terminals 12 and 11, and across terminal 12 and 10. Repeat test after dark. Rotate knob B to each position and repeat test.
Connect outdoor White wire to terminal 2, and this will complete the circuit.

6) Circuit A is Dusk ON and timer OFF
Indoor cable has Black and White wire.
Connect indoor Black wire to either terminal 7 or 8.
To test which is correct for application, set switch to Auto, and then test across terminals 9 and 8, and across terminal 9 and 7. Repeat test after dark. Rotate knob B and repeat test.
Connect outdoor White wire to terminal 2, and this will complete the circuit.

http://waterheatertimer.org/images/GE-15306-wiring-250.jpg
http://waterheatertimer.org/GE-timers-and-manuals.html#15306

GE 15306 is a version of 120Volt Tork 1101 indoor-outdoor timer sold at Home Depot under GE name and number.

You have 2 cables.
One cable comes from Breaker box, and other cable goes to Load (light, fan, motor, pump).
Each cable has black and white wire.
1) Cable from breaker box: Black wire H Hot connects to to terminal L.
Notice there is a metal bridge that connects terminal L and terminal 1.
If metal bridge is missing, use a jumper wire and connect L and 1.
White N Neutral from breaker box connects to terminal X.
2) Cable going to Load:
Black connects to terminal 2
White connects to terminal X.
So both white wires are on terminal X.

The 8045-20 & 8145 are 240V timers.
My maintenance buddy at McDonalds says the defrost timers are interchangeable, BUT I have not wired these particular timers.
You may want to post your question to a paid answerer who specializes in refrigeration:

This being said:
The 8045 is for 'Electric Heat Defrosting'
The 8145 is for 'Hot Gas Defrosting'

I posted the manual:
http://waterheatertimer.org/pdf/8000-series-defrost-sell-sheet.pdf

I also posted the 8145 and 8045 wiring side by side:
http://waterheatertimer.org/Paragon-timers-and-manuals.html#8045

The wiring changeover looks like the following:
Hot1 on 8045 is connected to terminal N => move this wire to terminal 1 on 8145
There is a jumper plate on 8045 that connects terminals 1 N 2
Jumper plate on 8145 connects terminals 1 and 2
If jumper plate is missing on 8145, use jumper wire to connects terminals 1 and 2
Hot2 on 8045 is connected to terminal X => move this wire to terminal N on 8145
Other wires on 8045 that are connected to terminal X => move to terminal N on 8145
Thermostat on 8045 is connected to NC terminal 4 => move this wire to NC terminal 4 on 8145
Heater on 8045 is connected to NO terminal 3 => move this wire to NO terminal 3 on 8145
Terminal X on 8145 is bare since this goes to cycling limit switch which is not used on 8045

The wiring diagrams appears below:

The T-103 has a 120Volt clock motor

From there, the wiring can go two directions depending on your Load voltage (load is the fan, light or motor that timer turns on-off)

Here is a link that shows exact wiring:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-T104-Intermatic-timer.html#T103

When wiring the T-103, steps 1-2-3 are true for 120V or 240V installation:
1) A white Neutral wire is always connected to terminal A (Neutral wire connects to Neutral busbar in breaker box)
2) A black Hot wire is always connected to terminal 1 >> this hot wire can come from 120V or 240V breaker
3) Black wire going to Load (fan, light, motor) is always connected to terminal 2
The following step is true for 120V Load
4) if Load is 120V, then white wire from Load connects to terminal A
The following steps are true for 240V Load
5) Only the neutral wire connects to terminal A as described in (1
6) The second Black hot from breaker box (240V has 2 hot wires) connects to terminal 3
7) The second White going to Load connects to terminal 4

Here are 2 more links that show how 120V and 240V circuits are wired
http://waterheatertimer.org/See-inside-main-breaker-box.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/B220C.html

There could be two situations for you. For the wall outlet, you may have a four prong plug or a three prong plug. For a three prong plug the outlet has three prongs and the terminals inside match up with these prongs. The two slanted prongs on the top are the hot terminals and the red and black wires get connected to these (order doesn't matter but keep the wires matched up with the terminals on the same sides). The white wire is connected to the "L" shaped prong, the third lower prong. The bare copper wire is just bent out of the way. At the dryer for the three prong there will be three terminals 2 hot and one neutral. Usually, your dryer cord will have the neutral as the middle wire, but pay attention if your cord wires are color coded (where white will be your neutral wire). At the dryer there is a terminal which is connected to the frame of the dryer by a piece of metal. This is your neutral, connect your neutral wire from your cord up to this. The other two wires get connected to the other two terminals (order doesn't matter but keep the wires matched up with the terminals on the same sides). For the four prong its very similar but there is a small change, that bare copper wire is now used. The terminals on the wall outlet will line up with the prongs. The two vertical terminals on the left and right are your red and black wires. The "L" shaped prong is your white wire. Now the fourth prong, the one shaped like a semi circle is the terminal you connect that bare copper wire up to that is your ground. At the dryer for the cord (If its a four prong cord your wires should definitely be color coded). The terminal that had a connection to the dryer frame now will no longer have one. The terminal thats connected to the frame you connect the green wire to. The terminal that was connected to the "green wire terminal' is now the neutral terminal and your white wire gets connected to it. The other two terminals are where your connect your last two wires.

You may have disturbed the wiring leading to the wall control. It connects to terminals 1 and 2 on the rear of the motor unit. The wires are color coded and must be connected correctly. The solid white wire goes to terminal 2 and the white wire with red tracing goes to terminal 1.