Kenmore gas range model # 970330480

SOURCE: burners don't receive gas though oven/broiler does

tommi, this model has a cooktop lock-out solenoid feature. Try pressing and holding the top light keypad for 5 seconds and see if the top comes back to life. If not, check your owners manual, it may be a different key. The lock-out solenoid is in the back behind the outer panel. The cooktop lockout valve has been redesigned from a AC to DC voltage because of complaints of chattering. The new part number is 8184768. Lets hope you don't need it and just have the top locked out.

SOURCE: kenmore oven and brolier will not work

The problem lies within your oven control board. This is very common and are not very hard to replace but they are expensive. You can check the price of a new control board at sears parts.

SOURCE: kenmore glass top range left front large burner out

check the burner socket, it is likely that contact is being lost where the burner connects to the hardwired portion of the system (the socket). It is not unusual for the socket to "burn up" when there is a poor connection to the burner resulting in the burner being replaced and the new burner not working or working intermittently.

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SOURCE: oven quit working

Hi. this is common in many old gas range ovens. There is a set of coils that are attached to the gas valve assembly. These coils , when activated and operational, open and close the main and secondary valves in this unit. They are controlled by the main ERC(clock/oven control board). I recommend checking these coils and there respective wiring harnesses. if the clips and wires are worn and corroded, simply replace the entire wire harness.

Now, if the wiring harness and wires that are connected to the coils look good and there are no signs of corrosion on the wires and connector clips, this will confirm that the coils have failed and you will need to replace them.

You can also preform an additional test with a multimeter. simply connect your multimeter or voltage meter to both terminal posts located on the coils. once your meter is connected, start the oven cycle. you should register some sort of current during this test at this time. if the current is sufficient and the coils do not initiated the valve action, this will confirm coil failure. if the meter dosen't register a current during oven operation, this will confirm ERC(control) failure. you will have to replace the Oven control board in this case.

The Most common issue in this situation will most defiantly be the coil assembly and not the control.

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SOURCE: Oven lights ,but doesn't heat to preset temperature

The problem is usually the igniter not reaching the correct amp draw .When the igniter does not reach the correct amp draw it may allow the gas valve to partially open or not open at all. The igniters are inexpensive and easy to replace. There is a video at http://appliancehelponline.com/gasoventroubleshootvideo.html this will walk you thru the correct procedure for performing this test. It may be a different model but the testing will be the same.You can also enter your model # for diagrams and illustrations of your specific model. Not all models are available. All parts come with installation instructions.

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