Lift will not work

check the safety switch under the seat, check for spark , check if it is in neutral, check if the hand brake safety switch is working
check that the gas inverter is operational

oops do not just add fluid. and the fluid not stated, brand and type. ouch.
many jeeps run very SPECIAL fluid.
the pumps runs at higher RPM and Dexron will not work on my other jeeps. id not own liberty but, can advise.
never ever use the wrong fluid in any A./T or P/S or you will be sorry.
seems its bad system if it drops level, so is moot point now (bet)
my jeep , i had to put in a new pump and napa said,our pS fluid works
and the bottle said just that, and foamed up , fast and the new pump
failed in 1hour. never ever listen to clerks. ever. run spec. lube.

the operators guide pages on capacities page 2004 (i dont have 02 books)
shows this.
Mopar ATF+4 Automatic Transmission Fluid
+4 is downward compatible to 3, its a superior lube.
+3 ended in 2005.

do not use anything else. mixing brands/types asks for trouble.
read all these post , then act.
the additives, in all brands will be different and will not mix well.
do not mix that. (the dino, syn reasons, are all religion, on mix.)

http://www.jeepsunlimited.com/forums/showthread.php?289443-Power-steering-Fluid-information

the ATF+4 bottle must say on back , licensed through Chrysler.
many wana be's lie. (they can, and do)

this +4 fluid is a true synthetic and has vastly better spec;s
high heat, longer life, 100kmiles, and very low shear spec.
the PS pumps , some run real fast and i've seen many foam up.
using the wrong fluid. get the real thing.
and do not mix them ,drain and fill with rear ATF+4

good luck

the pump is located on the bottom of the washer bottle that you filll with washer fluid.look at the bottom of the washer bottle there should be an electrical plug and a rubber/plastic hose this is the pump they are attached too.disconnect the electrical connector and the hose.if you have fluid in the bottle have it drain into a container or remove the bottle from the truck and turn the bottle so the fluid won`t run out it.then change the pump.and reassemble.

If dont remember bad, at '02 came with scissors, after '03 and upper came with bottle.

This is my suggest, 6-21" lift, seems like a good size for the WJ. Moderately priced.
Michelin 2½-Ton Jack $89.99 (CDN)
* Hydraulic Speedy Lift is a patented design - the fastest way to reach car chassis
* 6" - 21" maximum height is ideal for SUVs
* Wider jack stance increases overall stability of the jack
* Unique design combines aesthetics and strength in the overall jack design
* Universal joint ensures smooth release and secure valve operation from any pumping angle
* Storage tray is ideal for keeping track of small parts or hardware
* Saddle pad helps prevent damage to vehicle during lifting

Keep in mind the use that your Jeep is very important, also if your like to practice off-road tours.

Hope this helps.

First, try bleeding it. Put a 2 foot peice of vacuum hose on the slave cylinder bleeder screw. Loosen the bleeder screw. Put the other end of the hose into a clear bottle or brake/clutch fluid. ( have the bottle about half full). Now, have someone pump the clutch by hand while you watch for bubbles in the bottle. When it stops bubbling, you have all the air out, and you can tighten the bleeder, and remove the hose, and refill the reservoir.
If it won't bubble, and no fluid comes out, your master cylinder needs replacing.
( P.S. - The slave cylinder is down under the truck. It's what pushes the clutch rod.)

Call Brother customer service at 1-877-276-8437 and threy will help you

There should be some notches either in the top rails or the bottom. If I remember right they were on the bottom. Looks like peices of small round rod welded. Maybe 3 or 4.
Look for the locker arm and see where you need to lift them up from. You will have to have the jack raised enough to loosen teh arms to make them come away from the welded peices.

If no fluid is "leaking" from the brake lines (inspect visually) then the brakes should be bled with this method: Use 1/8 inch 2 foot long hose from parts store and attach the hose from bleeder valve ball on the brake caliper to a bottle partially filled with brake fluid. The end of the hose in the bottle must be submerged in some clean brake fluid in the bottle. With a second person holding the brake pedal to the floor, slowly turn bleeder valve counter clockwise (loosen tiny bit) with wrench and watch for dirty brake fluid to create bubbles in the bottle. When bubbles start, quickly tighten bleeder valve back to tight. Second person should lift foot, pump and then while valve is still tight should push the pedal to the floor again and THEN you again open bleeder valve slowly turning counter clockwise and watch for bubbles. Repeat until no more bubbles can be created in the bottle where the hose is submerged. Move to next caliper and repeat. For a firm brake pedal you will need to repeat this on all four calipers.

If you have a soft brake pedal and have to push hard to slow down or pump the brakes to slow down then you probably have air in the brake lines from the last brake pad replacement. The brakes need to be bled with this method: Use 1/8 inch 2 foot long hose from parts store and attach the hose from bleeder valve ball on the brake caliper to a bottle partially filled with brake fluid. The end of the hose in the bottle must be submerged in the fluid in the bottle. With a second person holding the brake pedal to the floor, slowly turn bleeder valve counter clockwise (loosen tiny bit) with wrench and watch for dirty brake fluid to create bubbles in the bottle. When bubbles start, quickly tighten bleeder valve back to tight. Second person should lift foot, pump and then while valve is still tight should push the pedal to the floor again and THEN you again open bleeder valve slowly turning counter clockwise and watch for bubbles. Repeat until no more bubbles can be created in the bottle where the hose is submerged. Move to next caliper and repeat. For a firm brake pedal you will need to repeat this on all four calipers.

After about 3 - 4 years, a powersteering pump accumulates a lot of metal specs, once they start building up, your pump starts choking, and wont be able to let the fluid flow through and basically fry itself. My advice, have a shop, drain and flush your power steering pump / fluid. You can even do it yourself, but it requires 2 people; Lift front end up, on jacks followed by stands, unhook the powersteering pump line, turn car on, and have your friend, mom, father w.e turn the wheel from left to right, let the old fluid drain out, one old fluid is out, pour NEW powersteering fluid into the pump, you will need to let it flow through, so it flushes itself out. Remember to put a large pan underneath where the pump is so you dont get fluid everywhere, be prepared to buy at least 3 - 4 bottles of fluid. Let 2 bottles run through, then put the pump line back on and fill 'er up.

Then your done, drive and see.