There is no power...to it...it happened when i was tightening the power wire

if your using it from the battery ck that the wires are tight connected and the battery clips are tight (both ) if the electronics senses a very quick power interruption then yes it will reset the loop back

1. Check positive/negative battery cables at battery-- no corrosion wanted and tight clamp.

2. check + battery cable at starter and wires at starter solenoid.

3. check - battery cable ground connection point.

4. check main power fuse/fusible link.

tighten and or replace cables.

Pull the meter and tighten screws on main breaker
http://waterheatertimer.org/See-inside-main-breaker-box.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-circuit-breaker.html

sometimes if the wires are to tightly together it can cause problems i have seen that happen before. You may just be tightening them to much.

Check your battery terminals and make sure they are clean by removing and lightly sanding with some rough sand paper (wipe down when finished), also the wires/cables going to them, they should not move when tightened on terminals. Also clean and tighten the negative (earth) cable/wire and if you have easy access check to see if the main starter motor lead is tight, be careful if you need to tighten it as you can short out the positive (starter motor lead) with the negative (anywhere on car thats metal 95% of it). You have poor connection somewhere which is causing your problem.

Here some toubleshooting:

Problem 1. Fan will not start.
Probable Cause
1. Fuse or circuit breaker blown.
2. Loose power line connections to the fan, or loose wire connections in the switch housing.
3. Reversing switch in neutral position.

Suggested Remedy
1. Check main and branch circuit fuses or circuit breakers.
2. Check line wire connections to fan and switch wire connections in the switch housing.
3. Make sure reversing switch position is all the way to one side.

WARNING: Make sure main power is turned off.

Problem 2. Fan sounds noisy.
Probable Cause
1. Blades not attached to fan.
2. Loose screws in motor housing.
3. Screws securing fan blade flanges to motor hub are loose.
4. Switch housing binding against the blade hub.
5. Wire connectors inside switch housing rattling.
6. Screws holding blades to flanges are loose.

Suggested Remedy
1. Attach blades to fan before operating.
2. Check to make sure all screws in motor housing are snug (not over-tight).
3. Check to make sure the screws which attach the fan flanges to the motor hub are tight.
4. Check to make sure that the switch housing does not bind against the blade hub.
5. Check to make sure wire connectors in switch housing are not rattling against each other or against the interior wall of the witch housing.
6. Tighten screws securely.

WARNING: Make sure main power is turned off.

Problem 3. Fan wobbles
Probable Cause
1. Setscrew in motor coupling is loose.
2. Setscrew in the hanger ball/downrod assembly is loose.
3. Screws securing fan blade flanges to motor hub are loose.
4. Fan blade flanges not seated properly.
5. Hanger bracket and/or outlet box is not securely fastened.
6. Fan blades could be out of balance.

Suggested Remedy
1. Tighten the setscrew in the motor coupling.
2. Tighten the setscrew in the hanger ball/downrod assembly.
3. Check to be sure screws which attach the fan blade to motor hub are tight.
4. Check to be sure the fan blade flanges seat firmly and uniformly to the surface of the motor hub. If flanges are seated incorrectly, loosen the flange screws and retighten.
5. Tighten the hanger bracket screws to the outlet box, and/or secure outlet box.
6. Interchanging an adjacent (side-by-side) blade pair can redistribute the weight and result in smoother operation.

WARNING: FOR YOUR OWN SAFETY TURN OFF POWER AT FUSE BOX OR CIRCUIT BREAKER BEFORE TROUBLESHOOTING YOUR FAN!!!

Hope helps.

Hello Bobby, hi, well, most common solutions, would be to tighten all screws, and clean contacts of the main board to the LCD panel due to poor connections.
One possibility is: Do you have LCD illumination? If the LCD is totally black, you may need to replace the inverter board.

Or : You need to open up the back cover and locate the main board, (usually the biggest circuit board), try to loosen and then tighten the screws, check for good contacts, make sure all cables are tight and neat (especially the cable from the LCD panel to the main board), then test.
Or this may be: Check also for loose cables from the power supply board, a loose cable here can cause several portions of the main board to fail so make sure they are snug and tight.
Worst is: If the unit does not respond, you may need to bring it for service, I see replacement of the main board.

This sounds like a bad connection somewhere. If you are comfortable working on electrical equipment, remove the main circuit breaker panel cover and sometimes an inner cover depending on the panel make.

Turn off the breakers one at a time - Check the wiring connections on ALL circuit breakers after they have been turned off. It's not unusual for wiring to loosen up on breakers after several years. Tighten all the screws where the wires are attached, usually with a flat-blade screwdriver. Then tighten all the white wires attached to the neutral buss. If you see any green wires, tighten them too.

Look for any burned or discolored wires, indicating that something is loose or overloaded. Do not place your other hand on anything metal while you tighten the wiring and use an insulated screwdriver. The best bet is to put your free hand in your pocket so you don't lean on something grounded accidentally.

You should also check the wiring on the main breaker to the home, but this can be dangerous and should only be done by trained personnel. This task may require removing the electric meter outside your house. It's even possible that the wiring on the primary side of the meter is loose - if it looks burnt, call the utility company - they will usually respond to this issue.

Hopefully, tightening all the wiring on the breakers will solve the problem. Residential circuit breakers are usually "stab" type, meaning they ""stab" onto the phase busses.

Above all, please be careful. If you aren't sure, it's usually best to call a licensed electrician.

Ask again if you need more help.

are your battery post bolts clean and tight, my 89 rs ran fine untill i decided i wanted shiny new battery bolts, when i put them in and tightened them down my car had no power at all, i checked how tight they were, and they were TIGHT so i wiggled the black cable and re tightened it and bam my lights turned on, tryied starting it, and it started, sometimes you just gotta make sure the connection is really good, not just how tight it is, also check your ground wires, there are a few but the main 2 are located at the front pass side next to the batt, and on the back firewall going from the bottom pass head to the firewall, hope that helps, if not comment back

Had a similar problem with my shoprider te888's there are 2 possible solutions that I have found.
1. dirt had been picked up in the pad that acts as a brake, causeing the motor to drag and speed up, found this after almost burning my hand on end of motor with brake. disassembling the brake and cleaning with an alchohol soultion fixed this one.
2. Loose wire to battery post, or corrosion on battery connectors can cause this too. found loose terminal on battery by tightening nut where wire attached.drove me nuts for days till I decided to tighten with wrench rather than finger tight... On my scooter it would slow down do to excessive current draw because of bad connection and controller would shutdown, which meant ubrut stop. Showed up mainly when climbing long grade up driveway.
hope this helps