I need to have a details of all screws and sequence of opening up the Phillips Pro Ceramic Diamond Hair Dryer so I can cut back and reconnect damaged power cable. Thanks
SOURCE: how to open case ?
There are hidden hooks (catches) all along the edges where the front half and rear half of the case meet. Using something like a putty knife (something thin but very strong) put the tool in the crack between the halves. Start near the center of the top or bottom edge and carefully separate the halves. It takes some expereince, but you'll soon see the hooks and figure out how to unlock them. Then you place another tool in the gap you've opened so it doesn't relock, and continue working your way around the edges. Until you have more experience and figure out how to do it with only one tool, you should have a few or even several similar tools to hold the opened areas while you're opening the next one. Once you have three sides unlocked, you can pull the two halves apart. I appreciate your thoughtful rating.
SOURCE: help with opening them
A215 has a detachable front (grey) cover. It is attached on 4 coaks (pins). Just push a flat screwdriver under it and turn slightly - the cover will go out a little. Do it around the cover - and it will be detached. You will see 6 screws (or 4 in the left speaker). You need to unscrew them all.
SOURCE: How to open the case safely (without damaging it)?
Remove all screws from the enclosure, and then slide a then metal (non magnetic) slide to pop the clips off of the sides of the enclosure, lengthwise. You can do it without breaking the plastic
SOURCE: DELL LCD monitor E151FPb turn white
I also tried re-soldering joint L781 on the main power control board (see Solutions #2 and #7). It worked. My 15 inch Dell flat panel LCD is working again, white screen gone. The solder around the pin did looked different to to the other joints...a very slight gap around the pin as though it wasn't contacting properly. To locate L781, look at the bottom of the PCB (the side with the soldering) with the power plug socket at the edge closest to you. L781 is in the top left quadrant of the board, about 2 inches in from left, 1 inch down from the top. For good measure, I also tried the solution that suggested trimming a millimeter of the end of the two data ribbons that plug into the smaller control board, although I couldn't see anything wrong with the data ribbons. I did this at the same time as resoldering L781 so not sure if it made any difference.
SOURCE: how to open tom tom n14644
Came apart eventually, click action!
Surface mount USB was a little tricky to remove, got there in the end and resoldered new part on.
If a Usb cable is inserted awkwardly the internal pins can be easily bent and damaged, rendering your device useless, good job i have experience with removing Usb's.
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