Spanner nut removel

You have to rock it side to side if that doesn't work since it is all metal and probably stuck with detergent heat it with a propane tourch wont do any damage

If it is a top loader, you have to remove the agitator, then get a spanner nut wrench and remove the spanner nut . Pull the inner basket up and out and check the condition of the aluminum drive block for broken off notches in the center where the basket drive tube ears lock in. This is a common problem among top loaders made by Whirlpool for Sears.

You'll really will need the spanner wrench for the spanner nut on the basket drive block. If you try to make a tool or use some other method, you risk injury and possibly damaging your washer basket.

The spanner wrench is made by Supco, part #TB123A. It has various other part numbers from the appliance manufacturers. It is compatible with Whirlpool, Maytag, GE, and Kenmore. Most Kenmores are made by Whirlpool.

If you want the wrench same day, call local appliance shops and ask if they sell the spanner for the Kenmore Series 90. I got mine from a local shop and paid $13.

You could also buy one on eBay or another reasonable online source.
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313&_nkw=tb123a&_sacat=0&_from=R40

Or Google search: TB123A

Don't pay more than $20 including shipping.

You can always sell it on eBay once you are done with it. It won't lose much value being used since it doesn't really wear out.

You'll need a hammer too, preferably with a hard rubber head, or use a wooden mallet. If you use a steel hammer, be careful when you strike the spanner wrench to loosen the spanner nut. Wrap the steel hammer head in an old washcloth or rag. You don't want to accidentally strike the porcelain enamel lining of the basket - it will chip and that can lead to rust of the metal.

Once you remove the agitator, then the nut with the spanner wrench, the basket should lift right out. It may need a little encouragement but it will lift out. I clean the out side tub with a putty knife to get the bulk of the scum off then use some cleaner like 409, or purple power to get the rest off. BE careful around the tub seal around the shaft, you don't want to damage it and have to replace it.

I had my wife hold the drum while i used a large pair of channellocks and got it off!

KENMORE top load, direct drive, neutral drain washers are made by Whirlpool.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number (###.######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

(See the following Whirlpool /Kenmore Service manual)

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

the problem points to the brake.

The washer uses a brake system to stop the basket at the end of the spin cycle.

Just like a brake on a car, it's designed to slip a bit so that the basket / car doesn't come to an abrupt halt.

Over time, the brake shoes can wear or the springs can get weaker or break.

Following is a description of how to remove the cabinet, pump, motor, transmission and basket drive tube on Whirlpool / Kenmore / Roper direct drive washers.

As an aside, you don't need a special spanner wrench to remove the spanner nut. I've found that a short (10") pipe wrench hooked over one of the spanner nut tabs and tapped with a hammer will usually loosen the nut. Also, rather than hitting the Drive block directly with a hammer, put a short piece of wood under it first to protect it.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137


Following is the Whirlpool parts list for their commercial washers although the consumer models are basically the same.


http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf

Whirlpool has replacement brake shoes and springs.

See the Sears parts site for washer 82372110.

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getModel!retrieve.pd?modelNumber=110.82372110

The following may also help.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=146

That sounds like a bad drive block. I think the part # is 389140. Double check that though. It's a cheap part, and not that hard to replace. However, you will need a Whirlpool spanner wrench. I won't go into each detail of breakdown unless you want me too, just let me know with a re-post. But basically, once the cabinet is removed, pop off the tub ring, remove the agitator, remove the spanner nut with aforementioned spanner wrench, and slide basket up off the gearcase shaft. The drive block may stay on the gearcase, or it may stick in the basket center. The drive block slides onto the gearcase shaft, (only goes on one way, due to slots) the basket slides onto the drive block, and the spanner nut is then tightened onto the drive block. The rumbling noise occurs when the block is worn in such a way that when stopping, the block (and basket) slides up and off the metal tabs on the gearcase. If that sounds too involved, call Sears...they have a pricing thing right now where the labor is a max of $129. So with the part it would only be about 150. Otherwise, just take it slow. Hope that helps!

CCW to remove , CW to tighten .

Are you aware of the fact that the hub nut on a GE washer has a left hand thread?