Light inside does not work, even after putting in a new bulb. Could it be a bad door switch. If so, can I replace it. How do I replace it?

Hello. This model is a MICROWAVE. Are you sure the bulb you replaced was defective? And are you sure the replacement bulb is good? It's very easy to break the filament inside and due to the gorillas who ship this stuff, you wouldn't be the first to put a new, bad bulb in! One of the door switches is part number 503387 and there are 2 of them in the switch holder. The third switch is part number 3B73361E. The whole switch holder assembly with switches is part number 3501W1A019C. The part number for the main board is 6871W1S128A because *there might be a faulty relay on the main board causing the light to fail*.

Hello Donna;

My name is Peter. I am a retired field service refrigeration technician.

Ok, lets fix the problem:

1.) The light bulb is a special bulb designed to operated in cold temperatures. Some food markets carry them. They cost $10.00-$12.00 each. A normal household bulb will fail.

2.) Assuming you have the correct light bulb. With the refrigerator door open, is the light on? Push the light switch, does the light go off? Light switches either have a small whit plunger or a curved actuator.

3.) Ok, before we assume a bad switch. Unplug the refrigerator. Remove the light bulb. With a flat head screw driver, lift the copper contact in the bulb socket just a little bit, to make sure the copper contact is not depressed and not making contact with the bulb. Put the bulb back in, plug your refrigerator back in. Does the bulb light?

4.) Now we have narrowed the problem down to the light switch. The light switch is normally mounted on the inside wall. It may also be part of the top door hinge assembly (Push pin). If it is in a bottom freezer it is located on the inside top liner in the middle. These switched have pop in retaining clips. With a small flat head screw drive or a peeling knife gradually pry the switch out. You will see either two or three connectors. Remove the connectors noting how the wire leads are attached, The wire leads are short. Be carful not to let they fall down into the liner wall. Lets check the switch, if you have a multi-meter, set your meter to the lowest Ohms. With one meter lead on one switch contact and the other meter lead on the other switch contact, you should get a reading of '0' Ohms. Anything else then the switch is bad.
Oh, you do not have a multi-meter, rest assured if you check the above you have a contact switch problem. Get the model number of your unit. Usually located on the fresh food section wall. Call you local appliance parts supplier and get a new switch.

If you have a push pin switch in the top door hinge, there are either 1 or 2 screws to be removed to remove the hinge cover access the switch.

Samsung has magnetic contact switches. In the door gasket, as with all door gaskets there is a flexible magnet strip. This strip makes contact at the top of the refrigerator front frame. In this case the magnet door gasket strip may be broken and had slipped out of position. In the case you must replace the door gasket. You can physically feel this magnet strip.

You have a faulty door switch. Here is the replacement switch.
There is a video on that same parts page to show you how to replace it.

Many times when the inside light fails to operate...it could be:

(1) A bad bulb ...replace with a known good one.
(2) Bad connection of the light bulb in its socket.
(Remove the bulb and spray the socket with WD-40 Spray Lubricant) then...
(3) Replace the bulb with a known good bulb..use a dry rag to securely tighten the bulb in its socket.
(4) The "Door Switch" could be bad. Replace bad "Door Switch" with new one.

Hopes this helps....Good Luck! ...... HandyHenry


If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/henry_239f63a136de60f0

Maybe check to see if your button next to your headlights switched is pushed in or out?

The likely culprit is the door switch on fridges in general. This because it is basically the only moving part in the circuit. Depending on it's location, it may be subjected to condensation, extremes of temperatures or even spilled liquids that dry and become sticky - resulting in the switch not popping out when the door is opened. Also inspect the light bulb socket itself for dampness or white, flaky dust-like particles. Do NOT attempt to clean the socket while the fridge is plugged in. These last two possibilities should be checked first, as the others are a little more involved.

If the door switch pops out with the door open - it means the internal workings of the switch are probably bad, or may be something else entirely. Locating the problem will require disconnecting the power cord and disassembling parts of the fridge in order to gain access to the switch terminals and related wiring. In the case of dampness or other debris in the light socket, it can be wiped clean now that the fridge is unplugged. Try a new bulb in the socket and plugging the fridge back in before proceeding. A meter and understanding of electrical test equipment along with the fridge's service manual will be needed to continue from here with the fridge unplugged again.

Even without a meter (and the rest of the items listed above) you could simply remove and replace the switch if it is suspect - and hope that it was the cause of the failure. Pay attention to orientation of the switch, any clips, screws or fasteners holding the switch in place. Disconnect wiring only after sketching or photographing the switch and the wires that are connected to each of the terminals. Remove and replace the switch and wiring. Plug back in and test the light.

Good luck - I hope this was helpful!

it would still try to turn on even iff there wasn't a lamp in it. if it won't even turn on, see if the switch inside the lamp door is working. it won't turn on if the door is open. also, the thermoswitch on to of the lamp compartment (through the inside) may also be blown and needs replacement.

I'd say the door switch is bad. Jiggle it. Spray some WD40 into it. But ultimately, remove it and test it for continuity. If there is no continuity in the door-open position, replace it.

But be careful. Some refrigerators have a second door switch with opposite function. It turns the fan OFF when the door is opened.

unplug refrigerator look inside light socket youll see a tab in the bottom of the socket bend tab up alittle bit then screw light bulb back in. if this doesnt help then the door switch is bad