Remove existing radiator drain plug assembly

The AC compressor continued to turn even after I pulled the 12-volt supply wire to the unit. The AC compressor exhibited no unusual symptoms that would explain the locked clutch, there was no bearing failure, no unusual noise, On the contrary, the AC continued to work properly. The Jaguar cooled as good or better than the other cars I currently own, all of which have original factory 134a AC systems. uses the GM A6 compressor, a common compressor used by a variety of General Motor's cars I was not about to disassemble a perfectly working AC system because of a defective clutch. The project starts by removing the hood. Clearance in the Jaguar engine bay is non-existent. In addition, the AC compressor is located 3 inches from the radiator top support. it is possible to do this with the hood on you will regret it. The objective is to replace the AC clutch on the car. Remove the AC compressor's front and rear bolts only. Lift the front of the compressor up to clear the top radiator support. Do not depressurize the system or remove any hoses.
Remove the center 9/16-inch nut from the compressor shaft. A special clutch holding tool is not needed if an air impact wrench is used.
install the clutch removal tool. The clutch is "press fit" to the AC compressor front shaft.
Instead of a clutch holding tool, I used a bar resting on the engine (blue arrow) to hold the tool removal nut while I turned the center stud that forces the clutch off.
The pulley is now completely visible. You will need a large snap ring pliers to remove the snap ring that secures the pulley.
Notice the towel below the compressor. Snap rings (red arrow) have a habit of flying off the pliers and disappearing forever into the engine. You are farned
The pulley is a zero clearance fit to the compressor nose. If you are lucky it will slide off by pulling on it. You will probably not be lucky. I used a puller to remove the pulley. Be careful here. You must identify what the puller can and cannot push against. The center compressor shaft must not be used as leverage to pull or push any component not on the compressor shaft. A 1 1/8-inch, 1/2-in drive socket (red arrow) will fit over the center shaft and rests on the compressor nose cone. This is my leverage point. I taped a large washer (blue arrow) to the socket to provide a contact point for the puller.
Attach puller jaws in the pulley groves and place the modified washer to rest against the nose cone. Slowly tighten the puller to remove pulley.
Locate and secure pulley key. If the key stays on the compressor shaft, do not remove it. An even bigger snap ring secures the coil assembly to the compressor. Remove the snap ring.
Remove coil assembly.
The clutch release springs (blue arrows) also appear to be in working order.
Testing the resistance of the coil assemblies indicate that they are within specs. The old coil pack reads 4.8 ohms.
The rebuilt coil pack reads 4.5 ohms.
In removing the clutch it appeared the coil was permanently energized. The clutch removal tool had to forcefully pull the clutch from the pulley. I was not about to put this coil pack back on. I cleaned the contacts on the rebuilt unit prior to installation.
Gently clean the nose cone remove any surface rust. the clutch bearing rides on this surface, it must not be damaged.
connect coil pack to compressor and install. Make sure the coil pack is attached properly to the electrical connector. There are three indicators on the rear of the coil pack that must match the corresponding holes in the compressor body (red arrow). Install big snap ring.
Clean pulley surface and install pulley. The bearing might require some slight persuasion to slide onto the nose cone. Use a drift (red arrow) that contacts the inner ring of the bearing only. Tap gently until the pulley bearing seats.
Install second snap ring. Make sure that the snap ring seats fully in the shaft grove. Tap the snap ring fully into the groove with a screwdriver if necessary. (red arrow)
Clean clutch mating surface and install clutch to the compressor. Note position of shaft key and corresponding clutch key slot. (red arrows). Make sure they line up before installing clutch to compressor shaft.
use the clutch installation tool. The front of the tool (blue arrow) screws over the threads of the exposed 9/16-inch shaft stud (yellow arrow). The nut then forces the bearing (red arrow)against the clutch face, forcing it onto the compressor shaft. One side of the bearing rotates with the nut to reduce friction as it forces the clutch onto the shaft. Note that the forces all act on the compressor shaft, not against it.
Hold the center bolt while tightening the nut down.
You are looking for a pulley clearance of .010 to .015. If you inadvertently create too close a gap, put the clutch puller back on and pull the clutch out accordingly. Replacement and or rebuilt parts are rarely perfect. You will probably get different readings at various locations around the circumference of the clutch. If the closest gap is .010 or more and the largest gap is .015 or less you are OK.
Install 9/16-inch self-locking nut and tighten. If a clutch holding tool is not available, then finish tightening this nut after the compressor belt is on and the clutch energized. This nut does not hold on or impacts the position of the clutch. It appears to be a safety precaution just in case the press fit clutch somehow comes off the compressor shaft.
Install compressor to engine. Tighten 4 bolts to engine bracket. Connect electrical connections to coil assembly. Install belts.
Turn on your vehicle and let there be cold air, good luck sorry illustrations wouldn't load to this format

PROCEDURE TO FLUSH

• Park the Toyota Tundra on a level surface and set the parking brake. Then, with the engine off, touch the radiator to gauge its temperature. If the radiator is still warm, allow it to cool off before you start next step.
• Twist the radiator cap one full turn, pause for a few seconds and then fully remove the cap. You want to pause to relieve any internal pressure inside the radiator. Opening a pressurized or hot radiator can cause it to spew hot coolant and burn anyone it comes into contact with.
• Position a bucket or tray with a two-gallon capacity underneath the radiator, below the drain plug. To access the drain plug, you may have to remove the plastic engine undercover, which should be on the driver's side of the Toyota Tundra's radiator. Use a socket wrench to open the plug.
• Open the drain plug and allow the existing coolant to drain completely into the bucket. Once complete, pour the old coolant into a sealable container for proper disposal.
• Put the drain bucket back under the radiator and close the drain plug. Then, fill the radiator with distilled water. Next, open the drain plug to let the water flow into the bucket. Replicate this procedure until the water runs debris free out the radiator.
• Replace the radiator drain plug and pour fresh coolant into the radiator until it's within an inch of overflowing. With the Toyota Tundra, you need to use the same coolant that came with the truck. Most likely, it is Toyota Long Life red coolant, but consult the owner's manual to be sure.
• Start the engine of the Tundra and turn the heating fan to high. Allow it to run until the cooling fan turns on two separate times.
• Switch the Toyato Tundra off and check the coolant level. If it is lower than before, add more coolant. If not, put the radiator cap back on and close the hood.

TIPS

• You will need 2 gallons of coolant for the four-valve Toyota Tundra and 3 gallons of coolant for the six-valve model.
• Using tap water from a hose is an alternative to flushing with distilled water, but tap water can leave sediments behind that can damage your coolant system

WARNING

• Because coolant is extremely toxic to people and pets, it's imperative that you dispose of the old coolant properly.