Top of refrigerator just inside the fridge door
has condensate collecting and eventually dripping onto the floor. I ''inherited'' this fridge from previous tenant who SWEARS that it is was caused by a missing part from the door hinge, and that it was a simple matter to fix.
Someone else told me that this part very often
''breaks off''. But both those folks have disappeared, and I can get no more info on it.
HELP !!! What part is it? How much is it? Can I install it myself? (I'm handyman-challenged, so to speak, but I'm willing to try
it if it's easy....
Does any of this make sense to anyone?
Help !!!
Dan S. in (what's left of) ''Dah Bigh Eahzee''Comment posted on May 07, 2009
Howdy.
Thanks for the quick reply.
Model was 532 manufactured in 1994...Comment posted on May 07, 2009
Oh, yeah. Did I mention it's a SubZero (model # 532)?Comment posted on May 07, 2009
P.S.
Door does not close all the way by itself. The top of the door's interior white plastic door shelf ''rim'' does just barely graze the
inside of the fridge at the handle side, but hardly even noticeable.
There are no other noises to speak of.
As regards a ''cam'', that may be what the prior owner was referring to when he said that the door hinge was ''missing a piece'', and that the lack of that piece was causing the problem.
However, I do not see a ''cam'' on the other (freezer) door, either, and it seems to be working well--to me, at least!
Well, it's a SubZero model 532. What do I do now? Comment posted on May 07, 2009
Oh, yeah. The top of the affected refrigerator door seem too lean a tad toward the other door, and also seems to hand out toward the kitchen, too, at the top. Comment posted on May 07, 2009
''the affected refrigerator door seem too lean a tad toward the other door, and also seems to hang out toward the kitchen, too, at the top''
The door closes, but does not close well, especially on the top half of the refrigerator door.....
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Clarification RequestPosted by blueextc3221 on May 05, 2009
we'll need the full model # of the fridge so we can pull up a schematic.
Thanks!
Best Solutionposted on May 05, 2009Asker's Rating
TheRepairGur
Rank: Master
Rating: 88%, 6 votes
If the door pops open after you close it, or the door is hard to push closed, the door closing mechanism has probably failed. Make sure you check for the obvious things, such as something sticking out of one of the shelves or orange juice cans rolling around the door shelf area causing the door to bounce back open when the door is slammed.
If you notice any unusual sounds when the door is opening and closing, such as a clicking or grinding sound, your door closer is probably worn.
There are three common types of door closers used in domestic refrigerators and freezers. We list here all three, along with how to access each component in order to change it.
The most common door closers used today are small plastic cams mounted at the bottom of the refrigerator and freezer doors. When you open the door, you cause the door to climb up onto the lower cam. When the door is released, the incline helps the door shut. To view a common door cam kit, click here. You can see how the upper and lower cams each have a hill and valley that work against each other to make the system work.
In order to change these, remove all food in the door, and remove the upper hinge in order to take the door off. Most hinges have a plastic cover that can be removed by prying up on it to expose the upper hinge screws. Usually, the cams mount with one screw -- one on the bottom hinge and the other on the outer door panel. On some models, the lower cam is riveted onto the lower hinge, and it's easier to purchase the lower hinge complete rather than try to drill out the old rivet.
If the cams you are replacing are for the freezer door that has a water line going through the middle of the cam, you not only have to remove the door but you must also disconnect the water line. Most water lines are fed through a channel in the door panel and clamped into place in the dispenser housing. Or, there may be a quick disconnect fitting behind the kick plate or apron on the unit. Once you've installed the new cams, you may want to put a light coating of lithium or silicone grease on the surfaces where the cams meet.
Another type of door closer is actually part of the upper hinge assembly itself. To view this style of closer click here.
In order to change this style, pop off the hinge cover, and remove the screws that retain the upper hinge. From there, pry up on the hinge and pull it through the hole in the outer door panel. If the spring is broken and will not come through the hole, remove the inner door panel. This is a big job so you might want to remove the door and lay it on a flat surface. Fold back the door gasket and remove all the screws around the perimeter of the door until you can separate the inner door from the outer door to gain access to the hinge assembly.
A third type of door closer commonly used is one that is internally mounted to the outer door panel, and you must separate the inner and outer door panel to gain access to the closer. To view this type of closer click here. In this style, the hinge pin actually goes through the closer. The hinge pin has a flat spot on each side of it that meshes with the cams on the closer. To view this style of hinge pin click here. On some Sub Zero units, this closer is mounted to the lower portion of the door and removal of the inner door panel is not necessary.
You rated this solution as ''It was helpful''.
U have older 532 - the external cam gets stuck and the door's hinge pin snaps - there is just enough of it left so the door stays inside the body's hinge bracket's hole, and the washer is gone - u need the lower RH door hinge pin with nylon washer - it attaches to the bottom face of door and the pin goes downward into the closer which mounts to the body at an angle - the much newer ones have the cam pieces that everyone's talking about download www.subzerolosangeles.com/partsview/532-1.pdf
u need parts 0180271 rh door closer, and 3540420 door hinge w/pin bottom RH -- part on page 4-24 picture on pg 4-25 use the picture title "prior to serial no. M824xxxxxx
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SOURCE: Top of refrigerator just inside the fridge door
If the door pops open after you close it, or the door is hard to push closed, the door closing mechanism has probably failed. Make sure you check for the obvious things, such as something sticking out of one of the shelves or orange juice cans rolling around the door shelf area causing the door to bounce back open when the door is slammed.
If you notice any unusual sounds when the door is opening and closing, such as a clicking or grinding sound, your door closer is probably worn.
There are three common types of door closers used in domestic refrigerators and freezers. We list here all three, along with how to access each component in order to change it.
The most common door closers used today are small plastic cams mounted at the bottom of the refrigerator and freezer doors. When you open the door, you cause the door to climb up onto the lower cam. When the door is released, the incline helps the door shut. To view a common door cam kit, <a href=" http://www.repairclinic.com/0081.asp?RccPartID=1035 ">click here</a>. You can see how the upper and lower cams each have a hill and valley that work against each other to make the system work.
In order to change these, remove all food in the door, and remove the upper hinge in order to take the door off. Most hinges have a plastic cover that can be removed by prying up on it to expose the upper hinge screws. Usually, the cams mount with one screw -- one on the bottom hinge and the other on the outer door panel. On some models, the lower cam is riveted onto the lower hinge, and it's easier to purchase the lower hinge complete rather than try to drill out the old rivet.
If the cams you are replacing are for the freezer door that has a water line going through the middle of the cam, you not only have to remove the door but you must also disconnect the water line. Most water lines are fed through a channel in the door panel and clamped into place in the dispenser housing. Or, there may be a quick disconnect fitting behind the kick plate or apron on the unit. Once you've installed the new cams, you may want to put a light coating of lithium or silicone grease on the surfaces where the cams meet.
Another type of door closer is actually part of the upper hinge assembly itself. To view this style of closer <a href=" http://www.repairclinic.com/0081.asp?RccPartID=781123 ">click here</a>.
In order to change this style, pop off the hinge cover, and remove the screws that retain the upper hinge. From there, pry up on the hinge and pull it through the hole in the outer door panel. If the spring is broken and will not come through the hole, remove the inner door panel. This is a big job so you might want to remove the door and lay it on a flat surface. Fold back the door gasket and remove all the screws around the perimeter of the door until you can separate the inner door from the outer door to gain access to the hinge assembly.
A third type of door closer commonly used is one that is internally mounted to the outer door panel, and you must separate the inner and outer door panel to gain access to the closer. To view this type of closer <a href=" http://www.repairclinic.com/0081.asp?RccPartID=616347 ">click here</a>. In this style, the hinge pin actually goes through the closer. The hinge pin has a flat spot on each side of it that meshes with the cams on the closer. To view this style of hinge pin <a href=" http://www.repairclinic.com/0081.asp?RccPartID=641650">click here</a>. On some Sub Zero units, this closer is mounted to the lower portion of the door and removal of the inner door panel is not necessary.
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