Replaced belts on drive side, no tension on other side though?

question 3 , and double posted....
and still no hint as the the JOB.
what are you doing and why, so we are on same page?

wow,,, you do make this so hard.
if the questions is new belt time"only"?(yes? do i guess good?)
then i posted last post all 11 steps from the real fsm ON REMOVAL. so, now I add page 2.
So now you want ,INSTALL too?
the below only works if you did page 1 correctly

ok here. 11 more steps, totaling 22



Install the drive belt to the crankshaft pulley, the tensioner and the generator.

Rotate the drive belt tensioner clockwise.

Install the drive belt to the idler pulley (1).

NOTE

Important: Ensure the drive belt is properly aligned and seated into the grooves of the accessory drive pulleys.

Slowly release the drive belt tensioner.

Raise the vehicle.

Install the right side engine mount bracket. Refer to Engine Mount Bracket Replacement - Right Side .

Install the engine splash shield. Refer to Engine Splash Shield Replacement - Right Side .

Lower the vehicle.

Install the engine mount strut bracket. Refer to Engine Mount Strut Bracket Replacement - Right Side .

Remove the engine support fixture. Refer to Engine Support Fixture .

Install the the air cleaner assembly. Refer to Air Cleaner Assembly Replacement .

If we use the treadmill daily it might need maintenance regularly. Running of 180 hours on the treadmill might lose the belt. Drive belts usually last for longer time of 5 to 7 years.So you have to adjust the tension of the belt.
Keep enough tension in the drive belt
If a user wants to improve the motor efficiency it is necessary to connect the motor to the front wheel which helps the belt to spin.
Too little tension results in slippage, excess heat and high-pitched noise, or too tight belt produces tension causing stress on belts, bearings, and shafts. Prevent premature motor failure by adjusting the belt at a suitable place. The belt should be fixed half an inch of play.
To improve the efficiency of the motor align the belt properly and lubricate it on time. Keep in mind such useful options may help the user. When the belt slips off the track, the friction between the belt and drive pulleys causes the belt to overheat. If you hear a high-pitched noise, it's time to replace the belt with a new one.
How to Ascertain that the drive belt can still be used?
If you test Front-wheel by walking on the treadmill and the belt stops but the motor is still moving, It means that the drive belt is loose and needed to be tightened or replaced.
Keep in mind
There are some exercises that are not suitable for the treadmill like jumping on it. This kind of usage can be rough on your treadmill and lead to your treadmill belt slipping.

Drive Belt Installation for Treadmills

The drive belt is used by the motor to drive the treadmill walking belt via the front roller pulley. A drive pulley is mounted on the roller and the roller has knurling or a sleeve to help it drive the walking belt. The treadmill console detects the current speed of the treadmill by monitoring the movement of a magnet mounted on the front roller pulley with a reed switch or by using an optic switch which monitors an optic disk mounted either on the front roller or on the motor shaft. If the sleeve moves to the side, you will not be able to keep the belt centered and many optic disks can be warped if pushed to the side by the sleeve if it moves, but we do have replacement sleeve kits if needed.

Steps to Replace Drive Belt-

1) Remove the safety key and unplug the treadmill from the wall outlet.

2) Remove the screws securing the motor hood and gently remove the motor hood.

3) Using an Allen wrench provided with the treadmill, loosen the two rear roller adjustment bolts until the rear roller comes into contact with the walking board. Turn the bolts and equal number of turns on each side and keep a count of how many turns you made so you will know how to properly re-tension the walking belt.

4) Remove the drive belt from the motor pulley. Place a screwdriver between the pulley and the belt and turn the pulley by hand. Use the screwdriver to guide the belt over the edge of the pulley. Be careful with the screwdriver to prevent damage to the pulley.

6) Mark the position of the front roller axle on the front roller bracket above the front roller adjustment bolt using a Sharpie marker so you will know where to put the bolt back into position. Remove the front roller adjustment bolt if your treadmill's front roller has a pitch adjustment bolt. If your treadmill does not have exposed roller bolts you will need additional instructions. Please see the troubleshooting section on our website for further help.

7) Gently slide the front roller from out of its mounting position on the frame. Do NOT remove the roller from the walking belt.

8) Slip the old drive belt off the roller and loop the new drive belt onto the front roller pulley.

9) Replace the roller back into its slot on the pulley side and re-tension the front roller pitch bolt to its proper place using the Sharpie mark as a guide.

10) Using the screwdriver, loop the drive belt over the motor pulley. Many Icon units originally had the drive belt misaligned by design (if you can believe it). This was to use the side load of the drive belt in order to keep tension lower. It does lower amp draw for the machine and replacing a side load drive belt occasionally is much cheaper than replacing a motor and/or controller so if your original drive belt was off-centered, install the new belt in the same manner.

11) Re-tension the walking belt.

12) Plug in the machine and check the drive belt for slipping. You can use some automotive fan belt dressing on the grooved or contact side of the belt to help it with grip on the pulleys and it will treat the belt as well. We prefer using belt dressing rather than over-tensioning the belt for the aforementioned amp reasons as well as additional stress placed on the drive system parts.

13) Replace the motor cover and test.

14) Make sure the walking belt is not slipping and is properly aligned and your treadmill is ready to use.

Copyright 2009 by TreadmillDoctor.com, Inc.

All illustrations, photographs, and scanned images, and text are the property of TreadmillDoctor.com, Inc. and may not be reused, retransmitted, copied, given, sold, or bartered to any third party. The recipient of this property is authorized to use it only in the manner expressly indicated by a staff member of TreadmillDoctor.com, Inc. All rights reserved.

Dear Sir:

Hello, I will try to help you, inmediately.

Please follow the next step:

1) Find the set bolt(s) on the motor. This is typically run through only one side of the motor mount or may be

on both sides but it does not run the full length of the mounting. Loosen this bolt(s) but do not remove. Jack

bolt models will have flat mounts and may contain up to four bolts.

2) Look for a bolt that will tension the motor. If it has this bolt, it typically runs in the same direction parallel

with the drive and walking belts. If your treadmill is not equipped with this bolt, . If your

treadmill is equipped with this bolt (very few are) the repair will only require one person. Using 2 7/16"

wrenches, make a few turns to this bolt, tighten the bolts from Steps 1 and 2 and test your treadmill for

slipping. If belt continues to slip, repeat Steps If a second attempt does not repair the problem

3) If you have arrived at this step, let's make sure you have a drive belt tension problem. With the motor cover

removed, walk on the belt normally and try to stall the belt to make it slip. Be careful during this test. If the

problem is in the drive belt, either the drive belt will stop when stalled or the front roller will stop when

stalled. If the motor, drive belt, and front roller continue to turn when the walking belt is stalled, the problem

is with the walking belt slipping on the front roller. If the drive belt continues to turn but the front roller stalls,

you may have a broken front roller pulley. If this is the problem, you will notice it because the plastic will

usually make a loud squealing sound on the metal front roller. The entire front roller assembly repaired or

replaced (see the help topic on replacing a pulley) and the drive belt must be replaced. We suggest

replacing the drive belt as well because it is a low cost item and will most likely, have suffered unusual

wear from the problem. Another possibility is that the drive belt has worn down. In some cases, belt

dressing may help correct the problem. If not, the drive belt must be replaced.

Please check this video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yX_0vRPdMfU&feature=related

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zXeHMWTcLUY&feature=related

E.CUADRA

MANAGUA, NICARAGUA. C.A

Dear Sir:

Hello , I hope everything is fine with your family.

Thank you by your request, and I will help you inmediately.

You have a Mechanical problem, please do the following:

Please do this with carefully!

The motor drive belt is adjusted independently from the walking belt. Some newer models have an auto tensioner which is a lever that has a wheel that puts pressure on the drive belt and a spring on the other end that automatically loads the belt to the proper tension. You should not adjust these since they are preset.

Tension can be affected slightly by adjusting the tension of the walking belt but if you have a slipping problem, the drive belt will require replacement. If your drive belt is too loose, it will slip on the front roller pulley or the motor pulley. If it is too tight, it will increase your amp draw to the point that you may have an electronics or motor problem. Due to this, it is better to be on the safe side and replace a drive belt rather than risk over tightening it. A drive belt is usually $29.99 or less while many parts you can damage by over tightening can be more than $300.

Additionally, too much tension can cause bearing failure in the motor and the front roller and front roller pulley failure. It is better to having the belt a little too tight rather than too loose due to the possibility of injury if the belt slips.

Motor Belt Adjustment- Icon Units

DO NOT REMOVE ANY OF THE MOUNTING BOLTS TO THE MOTOR. SOME MODELS WILL REQUIRE 2 9/16" WRENCHES AND MAY REQUIRE TWO PEOPLE TO ACCOMPLISH THE REPAIRS

Before beginning this repair: Check to make certain that the drive belt requires adjustment. Check out belt slipping instructions or with the motor cover removed, walk on the belt normally and try to stallthe belt to make it slip.
Be careful during this test. If the problem is in the drive belt, either the drive belt will stop when stalled or the front roller will stop when stalled. If the motor, drive belt, and front roller continue to turn when the walking belt is stalled, the problem is with the walking belt slipping on the front roller. If the drive belt continues to turn but the front roller stalls, you may have a broken front roller pulley.

Step 1- Find the motor mounts. Many motors in Icon treadmills have a main pivot joint in which a bolt runs the full length of the motor mount. This bolt will require loosening to provide maximum adjustability. Some models have a single jack bolt and others have an auto tensioner. Single jack bolts are the easiest to adjust.

Step 2- Find the set bolt(s) on the motor. This is typically run through only one side of the motor mount or may be on both sides but it does not run the full length of the mounting. Loosen this bolt(s) but do not remove. Jack bolt models will have flat mounts and may contain up to four bolts.

Step 3- Look for a bolt that will tension the motor. If it has this bolt, it typically runs in the same direction parallel with the drive and walking belts. If your treadmill is not equipped with this bolt, skip to Step 4. If your treadmill is equipped with this bolt (very few are) the repair will only require one person. Using 2 7/16" wrenches, make a few turns to this bolt, tighten the bolts from Steps 1 and 2 and test your treadmill for slipping. If belt continues to slip, repeat Steps 1, 2, & 3. If a second attempt does not repair the problem, skip to Step 5.

Step 4- If your treadmill is not equipped with a bolt as described in Step 3, the drive belt must be tensioned by hand. While one person applied increased tension to the drive belt, the other person should tighten the motor set bolt(s) that are described in Step 2. Tighten the bolt from Step 1 and test. If the problem is not corrected, repeat Steps 1, 2, & 4 and retest. If problem persists, skip to Step 5.

Step 5- If you have arrived at this step, let's make sure you have a drive belt tension problem. With the motor cover removed, walk on the belt normally and try to stall the belt to make it slip. Be careful during this test. If the problem is in the drive belt, either the drive belt will stop when stalled or the front roller will stop when stalled. If the motor, drive belt, and front roller continue to turn when the walking belt is stalled, the problem is with the walking belt slipping on the front roller. If the drive belt continues to turn but the front roller stalls, you may have a broken front roller pulley. If this is the problem, you will notice it because the plastic will usually make a loud squealing sound on the metal front roller. The entire front roller assembly repaired or replaced (see the help topic on replacing a pulley) and the drive belt must be replaced. We suggest replacing the drive belt as well because it is a low cost item and will most likely, have suffered unusual wear from the problem. Another possibility is that the drive belt has worn down. In some cases, belt dressing may help correct the problem. If not, the drive belt must be replaced.

Step 6- The belt should be able to be turned by hand at approximately a 90 degree angle from its normal operating position.


Thank you in advance, sincerely. God bless you.

If you need further help, please reach me.

E.CUADRA
MANAGUA, NICARAGUA. C.A.

The thumping noise comes from worn drum support rollers. The dryer drum will normally thump slightly as the welded seam of the drum passes over the support rollers. However, as the rollers wear with age, this thumping can become more pronounced. If the model number is correct, the rollers can be purchased as a kit and replaced by following these steps:


1. UNPLUG the dryer and remove the lint screen.

2. Remove the two screws that were under the lint screen and lift the top panel.

3. Unplug the door switch connector plug and any ground wire that may be installed on the casing.

4. Locate the two screws that hold the front panel in place. There should be one screw on each side in the cabinet interior.

5. With the door shut, lean against the front panel and remove the two screws that hold it in place. Once the screws are removed, grasp the front panel at the top center and lift straight up to remove.

You should now have complete access to the dryer interior. Release the belt tension, by pushing the idler pulley (tensioner) to the right (away from the belt) and lift the entire drum with the belt still remove.

The drum support rollers are located along the back wall (bulkhead) of the dryer.

6. Using a screwdriver pry the metal retaining clip off the LEFT roller support bracket. Then, remove the plastic triangular shaped tri-rings off each support shaft.

7. The rollers will slide off the support shaft. Clean any built up lint and debris that may have accumulated around the support shaft and install the new rollers.

8. Install the plastic tri-rings on both shaft, followed by the support bracket and metal retaining clip on the LEFT roller. Use a small nut driver and place it over the support bracket retaining clip and push on to the shaft to get it to seat properly.

9. Apply a small amount of oil on the each roller at the pont where the support shaft inserts through the roller axle. DO NOT get oil on the rubber wheels. This can cause them to slip.

10. Re-install the drum, making sure the rollers are seated properly in the groove around the perimeter in the rear. Make sure the belt is looped around the drum with the groove side facing the drum.

11. Have someone hold the drum in place while you re-install the belt over the tension pulley and motor. If working alone, kneel down so you can see the tensioner and motor and rest the drum front on your shoulder or knee.

With the belt removed, this may cause the idler pulley (tensioner) to come loose. This is normal with no tension on the pulley to hold it in place. To re-install the belt the pulley, follow these steps:

1. Loop the drive belt around the dryer drum with the groove side facing the drum.

2. With the tensioner in your left hand, insert the clip end of the idler pulley into the grooves on the dryer bottom casing with the idler wheel pointing to your left. (The grooves are directly in front of the drive motor.)

3. While holding the tensioner in place, insert the belt UNDER the wheel with your right hand and push the wheel to the RIGHT while pulling the belt over the drive motor pulley.

If this does not explain it well enough, you can also verify by going to repairclinic.com. Click on the Repair Help link and look for the "Dryer Belt Diagrams" link under the Special Features section on the next page. Look for WHIRLPOOL and refer to diagram H (This model Amana is manufactured by Whirlpool).

Replacement parts (if required) can be ordered on line at any of the following websites:

searspartsdirect.com
pcappliancerepair.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com

The part number for a replacement kit is 349241T. The kit includes BOTH rollers, the tri-rings and retaining clip for the support bracket. All these sites offer great service with competitive pricing, so shop and compare. The first three sites I have listed also inlcude helpful exploded view diagrams that can help you locate and properly indentify the parts you may need. you can view a diagram of the belt and tensioner under the "Cabinet Parts" section. The belt is listed as item 56 and the tensioner is listed as item 53.

NOTE: If you still have the teflon glide type tensioner, Whirlpool recommends you replace it with a conventional roller type idler pulley. The teflon type tensioners caused premature wear to the drive belt. The part number is 691366.


Once you have the belt installed, re-install the dryer front panel by holding it as you did previously. Line up the holes on the inside bottom edge of the front panel with the small mounting cleats on the front edge of the side panels. This can be done by yourself, but an assist may make it easier. Once you have the front panel in place, lean against it to hold it in place and install the mounting screws.

NOTE: Don't forget to reconnect the grounding wire and door switch connector plug. Without the door switch connected, the dryer will not run. Lower the top panel back in place and reinstall the two screws.

NOTE: Placing a piece of duct tape over the dryer vent chute will help safeguard against dropping anything down in the blower fan assembly. If you drop any screws down the chute, you will need to remove the dryer back panel to retrieve them. If you have any questions about this repair, please post back and let me know. I hope this helps you.

Before beginning this repair: Check to make certain that the drive belt requires adjustment. Check out belt slipping instructions or with the motor cover removed, walk on the belt normally and try to stall the belt to make it slip. Be careful during this test. If the problem is in the drive belt, either the drive belt will stop when stalled or the front roller will stop when stalled. If the motor, drive belt, and front roller continue to turn when the walking belt is stalled, the problem is with the walking belt slipping on the front roller. If the drive belt continues to turn but the front roller stalls, you may have a broken front roller pulley.
Step 1- Find the motor mounts. Many motors in Icon treadmills have a main pivot joint in which a bolt runs the full length of the motor mount. This bolt will require loosening to provide maximum adjustability. Some models have a single jack bolt and others have an auto tensioner. Single jack bolts are the easiest to adjust. Step 2- Find the set bolt(s) on the motor. This is typically run through only one side of the motor mount or may be on both sides but it does not run the full length of the mounting. Loosen this bolt(s) but do not remove. Jack bolt models will have flat mounts and may contain up to four bolts. Step 3- Look for a bolt that will tension the motor. If it has this bolt, it typically runs in the same direction parallel with the drive and walking belts. If your treadmill is not equipped with this bolt, skip to Step 4. If your treadmill is equipped with this bolt (very few are) the repair will only require one person. Using 2 7/16" wrenches, make a few turns to this bolt, tighten the bolts from Steps 1 and 2 and test your treadmill for slipping. If belt continues to slip, repeat Steps 1, 2, & 3. If a second attempt does not repair the problem, skip to Step 5. Step 4- If your treadmill is not equipped with a bolt as described in Step 3, the drive belt must be tensioned by hand. While one person applied increased tension to the drive belt, the other person should tighten the motor set bolt(s) that are described in Step 2. Tighten the bolt from Step 1 and test. If the problem is not corrected, repeat Steps 1, 2, & 4 and retest. If problem persists, skip to Step 5. Step 5- If you have arrived at this step, let's make sure you have a drive belt tension problem. With the motor cover removed, walk on the belt normally and try to stall the belt to make it slip. Be careful during this test. If the problem is in the drive belt, either the drive belt will stop when stalled or the front roller will stop when stalled. If the motor, drive belt, and front roller continue to turn when the walking belt is stalled, the problem is with the walking belt slipping on the front roller. the problem. Another possibility is that the drive belt has worn down. In some cases, belt dressing may help correct the problem. If not, the drive belt must be replaced. Step 6- The belt should be able to be turned by hand at approximately a 90 degree angle from its normal operating position

Installing An Icon Fitness Treadmill Belt You can save yourself a great deal of time by following these instructions as opposed to those of the manufacturer. Please contact us if you need any further help. UNPLUG THE TREADMILL BEFORE DOING ANY REPAIR!
Step #1- Remove the plastic railing on the right hand side of the deck. Most railings are stapled down so using a flat head screwdriver or another prying device is the easiest way to do it. The plastic is refastened using screws provided with the belt in a later step. If you cannot see the staples, you may need to remove the cosmetic center insert cover first by simply sliding it to the back of the treadmill. This rail is on the opposite side of the front roller pulley and motor. Some of the models aren’t stapled down and with these, you simply remove the rear end cap and slide the rail off the back of the treadmill.
Step #2- Loosen the rear roller and remove the two adjustment bolts. Some models have a spring loaded tensioner on the right hand side so be careful when removing these bolts. After the bolts have been removed, remove the rear roller end cap(s). The rear roller should now simply slide out of the walking belt.
Step #3- Remove the motor hood. Using a black permanent marker, make a mark on the front roller adjustment bolt on the motor compartment side at exactly where it fits flush with the roller so you will know where to retighten it later. The adjustment bolt is on the right hand side of the front roller. Then remove the bolt with a 7/16” wrench. Step #4- Remove the deck screws which should now be exposed since the plastic cover is off. In this step, also remove the staples with a pair of pliers. Be sure to remove all deck and staple debris before continuing.
Step #5- This step is easiest if you have another person to help but it is possible with one person. Lift up the side of the deck that has been loosened and making sure that the front roller is angled toward the deck, remove the old belt by simply pulling it to the side. A few models had a side hand rail that attaches to the side of the treadmill and if you have one of these, the hand rail must be removed first.
Step #6- Install the new belt just like you removed the old belt. Before proceeding, make sure that the belt is in the center of the two metal belt guides that protrude from the bottom of the deck. The guides should be angled where the sides of the belt are turned slightly upward. Sometimes these can get bent during installation so make sure they are contacting the edges of the belt or the belt will not stay centered properly. Step #7- Install the front roller adjustment bolt where you just start it. Do not return it to its original position yet.
Step #8- Install the deck screws.
Step #9- Slide the rear roller back into position and insert the end caps and rear roller bolts. Most models have a small ground wire on one of the rear roller bolts. Make sure to just slide this over the bolt before it is inserted in the roller. The ground wire dissipates static electricity that is built up on the walking belt to help the roller bearings last longer and reduce static discharge on the electronics.
Step #10- Adjust the front roller bolt to its original position.
Step #11- Tighten the rear roller bolts to where the tension on both sides feels even and you can lift the walking belt 2-3” in the center of the belt from the deck surface.
Step #12- Replace the right side railing with the screws provided using a screwdriver.
Step #13- Start the treadmill and align the belt according to the instructions in the owner’s manual or on our web site troubleshooting page under “Belt Centering Tensioning Instructions.”
Step #14- Once the belt is aligned, test the belt for slippage. If the belt slips at all, tighten the rear roller adjustment bolts equally on both sides ½ turn until the slippage is gone. Do not over tighten the belt where it has less than 2” of lift from the deck surface.
Step #15- Replace the motor hood and make sure no odd noise is apparent and that the belt is tracking and tensioned properly.

Either front roller may need to be replaced or the motor drive belt may need to be adjusted. This problems are caused when a walking belt is worn out and in need of replacement. Too much tension can cause bearing failure in the motor and the front roller and front roller pulley failure.

Motor drive belt adjustment: The motor drive belt is adjusted independently from the walking belt. Some newer models have an auto tensioner which is a lever that has a wheel that puts pressure on the drive belt and a spring on the other end that automatically loads the belt to the proper tension. You should not adjust these since they are preset. Tension can be affected slightly by adjusting the tension of the walking belt but if you have a slipping problem, the drive belt will require replacement. If your drive belt is too loose, it will slip on the front roller pulley or the motor pulley. If it is too tight, it will increase your amp draw to the point that you may have an electronics or motor problem. Due to this, it is better to be on the safe side and replace a drive belt rather than risk over tightening it.