Air switch doesn't return to top position

If you mean the blinker does not click back to its rest position you have a worn out springs on the turn signal switch it self they are under a little pressure due to the spring and lets it return back to its rest position that spring or springs are worn out they wear out over time you should not have to replace the whole switch just the little circle springs on the switch it self. This is a little work on your part first you will need to make gently to disconnect the srs system AIr bags and disconnect your ground from the battery first then disconnect the air bag connections you will see them. then you will need a Philips usually there are 2 to 3 screws on the back of the steering wheel holding you air bag in remember to disconnect battery then the air bag be gentle and careful. Then you will need to rent or buy a steering wheel puller to remove the steering wheel
and you see the round plastic switch and the little round springs when u move the turn single to the up or down
position and you will see these round springs if this does not solve the problem then the switch is shorted out and it will have to be completely replaced. to due that usually u need a number 3 screw driver or what ever holding down
the round circular plastic switch and follow it down the steering column and disconnect a plug with at least 15 wires on it, it will be flat on top of the steering column follow that down you'll see the connector. Then reverse the step you took taking it out . But I think the springs may help I hope so for you save you a extra few hours and if some reason you do not feel comfortable messing with it then find a honorable repair shop, but be ready for a little labor bill helps if you have the part at least you'll have a say in the quality and money spent on the part, which can find tons of different one selling these switches.

I hope this helps
Good Luck God Bless

Rob

Usually miss feed happens when the driver does not return to top position not allowing the nails to feed into position. Easy to check, point nose of nailer up then down again to see if the driver is loose in the cylinder. If loose, the driver will be in the down position when the side door is opened. If driver is down, replace driver oring. If driver oring is good, look for spring tension on feeder and check feeder spring on the door side. If piston oring good and feeders have good spring tension, suspect lower bumper cracked(remove head and piston to check bumper).
On gun with depressor (safty foot) not actuating trigger, look for worn trigger (trigger inner lever could be worn) or loose or worn firing pin in the trigger valve above the trigger(valve # tva6). Replace as needed. To check for proper gun action, remove the nails, remove the 3mm roll pin holding trigger and dry fire the gun by depressing the tigger pin. Good luck

Did you bleed the gas line of air? In a nw installation it is not uncommon to sit there 20-30 seconds with the gas line union open and the shutoff open to get all the air out and a good flow of gas present. If that doesn't work post a comment with what else happens.

John

Remove the nails and air supply. With side door open notice position of driver. Driver should be at top position with tip not visible. If driver is down and it moves within cylinder when you tilt nose up then down again, time to replace orings. If driver is down, it should extend past the nose about 1/4 inch (if driver is broken at the tip the end will look rough and nail will not drive in all the way). If driver extends past the nose more than 1/4 inch then lower bumper may be breaking up /cracked. Easy test for proper function. With nails removed and side door open, connect air to gun and dry fire gun against hard rubber or old coiled air-hose (with air connected and trigger depressed, no air should leak from trigger area, if air leaks when trigger is depressed, look for fault at trigger pin). Feeder should move back then forward in quick motion almost matching speed of driver and driver should not creep down between shots. No air should leak from nose of the gun (push nose against hard rubber and depress trigger and hold in this position, driver should stay down with very little or no air leaking out of nose, when you release trigger, driver will return). If air leaks out of nose while holding in this position, replace lower bumper. If a quantity of air leaks from valve in front of trigger, cylinder orings may need replacing or outer part of cylinder has fine scratches (remove scratches with 400 grit paper). Parts are available at www.toolpartsdirect.com. Good lucki

The pressure switch has not tripped 8 minutes after the water valves are turned on and the flow meter has detected about 10.5 gallons of water entering the machine. Either the pressure switch contact is stuck in the empty position or the pressure hose has air leaks or clogs causing the pressure switch not to trip.

Disconnect power then remove the screws attaching the top panel to the rear of the machine then slide the panel rearwards and off the cabinet. Locate the pressure switch at the right side of the cabinet.



Disconnect the pressure hose from the pressure switch then blow air down into the hose forcefully to clear it for clogs and check it for air leaks and kinks. Remove the pressure switch from the cabinet the do the same as for the pressure hose to possible free the stuck or welded contacts. replace the pressure hose if it has air leaks and/or the pressure switch itself if the contacts cannot be released.

There are two possible causes of the water not stopping. First is the water inlet valves stuck in the open position and second is the pressure switch not tripping when the correct water level is reached. Turn off or unplug the machine while it is filling and if the water doesn't stop, the water inlet valve/s is/are indeed stuck in the open position. Replacing the water inlet valve assembly should solve the problem.

But if the water stops, the problem is the pressure switch stuck in the empty position. Disconnect power then raise the console up and hinge it at the rear of the machine to access the pressure switch. It is the part with the small clear hose attached to it. Detach the hose and blow air down into it including the pressure switch itself. Replace the pressure switch if the problem persists.

Click on the link below for the detailed procedure in raising the console and removing the cabinet to access and replace the water inlet valve assembly.

Removing the Cabinet on a Whirlpool or Kenmore Top-Load Washing Machine

REMOVAL

1. Disconnect negative battery cable.
2. Remove sight shield.
3. Remove module bracket.
4. Disconnect No. 6 spark plug wire to prevent damage to wire.
5. Remove radiator fan shroud assembly.
6. Remove top RH isolated radiator mount bracket.
7. Remove remote air cleaner.
8. Remove ignition coil.
9. Disconnect electrical connector on power steering pressure switch at steering gear.
10. Remove pressure switch to allow for tool clearance.
11. Remove screw at pressure switch and return line bracket.
12. Remove anti rattle clips from power steering lines.
13. Remove plastic strap attaching steering gear heat shield to power steering return line.
14. Remove plastic strap attaching lines to transfer tube on the steering gear.
15. Disconnect Electronic Vacuum Regulator (EVR) valve wire.
16. Remove the ground wire from back of engine block.
17. Remove pressure line fitting at power steering pump using a 5/8 inch flare nut wrench.
18. Loosen clamp and remove return line at pump.
19. Loosen clamps and remove return line at power steering oil cooler.
20. Remove pressure line fitting (gold in color) at steering gear, using an 18mm open end wrench.
21. Remove return line fitting (silver in color) at steering gear, using an 18mm open end wrench.
22. Loosen two screws retaining power steering oil cooler to sub frame.

By design, a disc brake system does keep a slight pressure on the rotor. The pads on a disc brake do not back off like they do on a drum brake. There are no springs to pull the pads back. Additionally, the pads keeping slight pressure on the rotor is what keeps the rotor clean and dry so that you have good brakes even when riding in the rain.

What the problem sounds like to me is either you have air in the brake or your rear brake pedal is not returning to it's top position for some reason.

First, bleed the brakes and make certain there is no air in the system. Depress the pedal and hold it down, open the bleeder valves and let out the air and brake fluid, close the bleeder valve, relaease the brake pedal and wait a minute for the cylinder to recharge with brake fluid. Do not allow the master cylinder to run dry and use the proper type of brake fluid. Continue this until you have a full firm brake.

Now, when you let off on your brake pedal, there's a spring that returns the pedal to the top. Make sure this spring is working as it should. It should return the pedal all the way back and hold it firmly in that position. Also there is an adjsutment of the brake rod that goes to master cylinder. It should be adjusted so that it allows the piston in the master cylinder to return fully to the rear position and then have a bit of slack. If it keeps the piston from fully returning, the brakes will drag. If the piston does not return fully as it should, the master cylinder needs rebuilding.

Good Luck
Steve

First, remove all of the air from the cleaner head and stop all air from entering the pool through the return lines. Also, if the head and hose are covered with bubbles, give the hose a good tug. This will release the air bubbles and allow the pool cleaner to settle son the bottom of the pool. Also, the cleaner head may actually be being lifted off the bottom of the pool by the hose or the pressure in the return lines. Make sure that the hose stays untangled and the pressure from the return lines is not too low (not enought pressure to power) or too high (too much pressure that cause the unit to lift off the floor).

there is a way to pressure bleed the system. depress and lock the clutch pedal down with the use of a pedal depresser or a stick, long extension something, with the pedal depressed crack the bleeder open and the pressure plate springs should force fluid out of the bleeder. note in some cases the pedal will stick in the depressed position. without the springs from the pressure plate. this is normal. just manually return the pedal to its start position, and repeat until air is purged.