Spins easily with plug removed but almost impossible to pull starter cord with plug in
SOURCE: HARD TO PULL CORD WITH SPARKPLUG IN CHAINSAW. IF
sound like hydraulic lock,try leaving the spark plug out and pull it quite a few times with the spark plug hole facing the ground, this should shoot the offending fluid out.
might work ?
SOURCE: homelite super xl ao runs for a short time, then
Inspect your cylinder and piston as follows:
A written diagnosis by a good independent saw shop ($10-20 I recommend Stihl) might be a good idea at this point.
1. Remove the starter housing. Does the starter operate smoothly? If yes, reinstall the cover and continue with 2, if no repair starter.
2. Is the saw equipped with a decompression valve? Yes continue, no proceed with 3.
· Leave the ignition off, set the valve and pull the starter.
· Pull gently to release the valve. Is there a difference in the effort required?
· If yes continue with 3, if no repair or replace the decompression valve.
3. Was this saw perhaps operated in a lean condition (metal transfer from the piston to cylinder wall)? This may be caused by many things including; leaky intake connections at the engine or carburetor; leaky crankcase seals; or running on gasoline containing no 2-cycle oil.
· Remove the spark plug wire and plug. Remove the muffler, hold a light at the plug hole and inspect the cylinder through the exhaust port. Is it smooth and shiny or does it appear speckled with dull gray spots or smears?
· Pull the starter slowly, inspect the piston as it rises and falls. Is it a dull gray without scratches and gouges?
· Hold the light at the exhaust port and look through the spark plug hole, inspect the cylinder above the exhaust port. Is it shiny and smooth or speckled with gray spots or smears?
Any spots or smears on the cylinder or deep scratches and gouges in the piston indicate the saw was operated in a lean condition. Repair of this on a home owner quality saw often exceeds replacement cost. A repair estimate by an independent saw shop should be considered.
4. The last likely possibility is the saw has jumped timing. This problem or any not discussed is usually beyond the ability of the operator to repair. Please take it to a good local saw seller/mechanic for a written diagnosis before authorizing any repair. HTH
Lou
A short block R² is the usual repair homeowner grade saws. You may find some additional help here:
ArboristSite.com Chainsaw thread (free to join)
http://www.arboristsite.com/forumdisplay.php?f=9
Please do a search for your saw before posting any question.
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