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Anonymous Posted on Nov 21, 2013

Xl 76 decompression

Spins easily with plug removed but almost impossible to pull starter cord with plug in

2 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 5 Answers
  • Posted on May 01, 2009

SOURCE: HARD TO PULL CORD WITH SPARKPLUG IN CHAINSAW. IF

sound like hydraulic lock,try leaving the spark plug out and pull it quite a few times with the spark plug hole facing the ground, this should shoot the offending fluid out.
might work ?

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Anonymous

  • 2220 Answers
  • Posted on Jan 15, 2010

SOURCE: homelite super xl ao runs for a short time, then

Inspect your cylinder and piston as follows:
A written diagnosis by a good independent saw shop ($10-20 I recommend Stihl) might be a good idea at this point.
1. Remove the starter housing. Does the starter operate smoothly? If yes, reinstall the cover and continue with 2, if no repair starter.
2. Is the saw equipped with a decompression valve? Yes continue, no proceed with 3.
· Leave the ignition off, set the valve and pull the starter.
· Pull gently to release the valve. Is there a difference in the effort required?
· If yes continue with 3, if no repair or replace the decompression valve.
3. Was this saw perhaps operated in a lean condition (metal transfer from the piston to cylinder wall)? This may be caused by many things including; leaky intake connections at the engine or carburetor; leaky crankcase seals; or running on gasoline containing no 2-cycle oil.
· Remove the spark plug wire and plug. Remove the muffler, hold a light at the plug hole and inspect the cylinder through the exhaust port. Is it smooth and shiny or does it appear speckled with dull gray spots or smears?
· Pull the starter slowly, inspect the piston as it rises and falls. Is it a dull gray without scratches and gouges?
· Hold the light at the exhaust port and look through the spark plug hole, inspect the cylinder above the exhaust port. Is it shiny and smooth or speckled with gray spots or smears?
Any spots or smears on the cylinder or deep scratches and gouges in the piston indicate the saw was operated in a lean condition. Repair of this on a home owner quality saw often exceeds replacement cost. A repair estimate by an independent saw shop should be considered.
4. The last likely possibility is the saw has jumped timing. This problem or any not discussed is usually beyond the ability of the operator to repair. Please take it to a good local saw seller/mechanic for a written diagnosis before authorizing any repair. HTH
Lou
A short block R² is the usual repair homeowner grade saws. You may find some additional help here:
ArboristSite.com Chainsaw thread (free to join)
http://www.arboristsite.com/forumdisplay.php?f=9
Please do a search for your saw before posting any question.

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Likely it is flooded. Try starting without choke. Move control lever into choke position, then back to start position. This sets a high idle throttle/no choke. Don't touch throttle or it will drop throttle position from high idle to idle. Set decompress and pull starter cord no more than 3x.

You may have to remove spark plug and pull start cord several times to get the excess fuel out of the cylinder and crankcase. Dry spark plug with compressed air or starter fluid. Reinstall spark plug. Pull starter cord no more than 3x. If it doesn't fire, remove plug and inspect tip. If completely dry, no fuel. If wet either no spark or it has flooded again, check for spark.
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The engine in my My McCullock Promac 610 has suddenly become impossible to turn over using the starter cord although it turns over easily with the spark plug removed.

Keep in mind... Gasses compress, liquids do not. Remove the spark plug. Hold the saw so the spark plug hole is the lowest part of the engine... and pointed away from you. Pull the starter cord rapidly until all fluids are purged from the crankcase. If it happens again... rebuild or replace the carb. Good Luck !!
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Thanks for your help re my Husky345. However I am still in trouble as I have found there is no decompression valve on it. The starter is very lumpy and hard to pull, having already broken the cord dr

Remove the flywheel and check the key has not sheard, if this is ok the only thing you can do now is to increase the air gap between the ignition unit and the flywheel magnets, move it out to 0.8mm and try again, this will alter the ignition timing slightly and reduce the drag from the magnets.
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Pully stater will not spin when pully rope is pulled.

Starter Handle difficult to pull:
1. Remove the starter cover.
· Inspect the flywheel and crankshaft under the starter cover. Are the woodruff key slots on the crack shaft and flywheel aligned and the key intact? If not; Please consider taking the saw to a good local saw seller/mechanic for a written diagnosis before authorizing any repair or ordering any parts; if yes continue.
· Does the starter operate smoothly? If yes, reinstall the cover and continue with 2, if not repair the starter.
2. Is the saw equipped with a decompression valve? Yes continue, no proceed with 3.
· Leave the ignition off, set the valve and pull the starter.
· Pull gently to release the valve. Is there a difference in the effort required?
· If yes continue with 3, if no repair or replace the decompression valve.
3. Was this saw perhaps operated in a lean condition (metal transfer from the piston to cylinder wall)? This may be caused by many things including but not limited to; leaky intake connections at the engine or carburetor; leaky crankcase seals; cracked fuel delivery lines; running on gasoline containing no 2-cycle oil.
· Disconnect the spark plug wire and remove the plug. Remove the muffler (clean it and the spark arrestor before reinstalling), hold a light at the plug hole and inspect the cylinder through the exhaust port. Is it smooth and shiny or does it appear speckled with dull gray spots or smears?
· Pull the starter slowly, inspect the piston as it rises and falls. Is it a dull gray without scratches and gouges?
· Hold the light at the exhaust port and look through the spark plug hole, inspect the cylinder above the exhaust port. Is it shiny and smooth or speckled with gray spots or smears?
Please Note: Any spots or smears on the cylinder or deep scratches and gouges in the piston indicate the saw was operated in a lean condition. Repair of this on a home owner quality saw often exceeds replacement cost. A repair estimate by an independent saw shop should be considered.

If you have more questions or need additional help please reply below and I will get back to you. Good Luck. HTH
Lou
Thank You for using FixYa.
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I AM NOT ABLE TO PULL CRANKING CORD ALLTHE WAY. IF I REMOVE SPARK PLUG THEN IT IS EASY TO PULL CORD ALLTHEWAY UP. WHY AND WHAT TO DO ?

Starter Handle difficult to pull:.
1. Is the saw equipped with a decompression valve? Yes continue, no proceed with 2.
·
Leave the ignition off, set the valve and pull the starter.
· Pull gently to release the valve. Is there a difference in the effort required?
· If yes continue with 2, if no repair or replace the decompression valve.
2. Was this saw perhaps operated in a lean condition (metal transfer from the piston to cylinder wall)? This may be caused by many things including but not limited to; leaky intake connections at the engine or carburetor; leaky crankcase seals; running on gasoline containing no 2-cycle oil.
· Remove the spark plug wire and plug. Remove the muffler, hold a light at the plug hole and inspect the cylinder through the exhaust port. Is it smooth and shiny or does it appear speckled with dull gray spots or smears?
· Pull the starter slowly, inspect the piston as it rises and falls. Is it a dull gray without scratches and gouges?
· Hold the light at the exhaust port and look through the spark plug hole, inspect the cylinder above the exhaust port. Is it shiny and smooth or speckled with gray spots or smears?
Any spots or smears on the cylinder or deep scratches and gouges in the piston indicate the saw was operated in a lean condition. Repair of this on a home owner quality saw often exceeds replacement cost. A repair estimate by an independent saw shop should be considered.
3. The last likely possibility is the saw has jumped timing. This problem or any not discussed is usually beyond the ability of the operator to repair. Please take it to a good local saw seller/mechanic for a written diagnosis before authorizing any repair. HTH
Lou
Feb 20, 2010 • Garden
2helpful
1answer

Homelite super xl ao runs for a short time, then

Inspect your cylinder and piston as follows:
A written diagnosis by a good independent saw shop ($10-20 I recommend Stihl) might be a good idea at this point.
1. Remove the starter housing. Does the starter operate smoothly? If yes, reinstall the cover and continue with 2, if no repair starter.
2. Is the saw equipped with a decompression valve? Yes continue, no proceed with 3.
· Leave the ignition off, set the valve and pull the starter.
· Pull gently to release the valve. Is there a difference in the effort required?
· If yes continue with 3, if no repair or replace the decompression valve.
3. Was this saw perhaps operated in a lean condition (metal transfer from the piston to cylinder wall)? This may be caused by many things including; leaky intake connections at the engine or carburetor; leaky crankcase seals; or running on gasoline containing no 2-cycle oil.
· Remove the spark plug wire and plug. Remove the muffler, hold a light at the plug hole and inspect the cylinder through the exhaust port. Is it smooth and shiny or does it appear speckled with dull gray spots or smears?
· Pull the starter slowly, inspect the piston as it rises and falls. Is it a dull gray without scratches and gouges?
· Hold the light at the exhaust port and look through the spark plug hole, inspect the cylinder above the exhaust port. Is it shiny and smooth or speckled with gray spots or smears?
Any spots or smears on the cylinder or deep scratches and gouges in the piston indicate the saw was operated in a lean condition. Repair of this on a home owner quality saw often exceeds replacement cost. A repair estimate by an independent saw shop should be considered.
4. The last likely possibility is the saw has jumped timing. This problem or any not discussed is usually beyond the ability of the operator to repair. Please take it to a good local saw seller/mechanic for a written diagnosis before authorizing any repair. HTH
Lou
A short block R² is the usual repair homeowner grade saws. You may find some additional help here:
ArboristSite.com Chainsaw thread (free to join)
http://www.arboristsite.com/forumdisplay.php?f=9
Please do a search for your saw before posting any question.
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