While my wife was baking last night I heard a LOUD pop come from the oven. when I looked over at the oven, the lights were off on the control screen above the stove but the stove was still working. I looked in my electrical panel and found that the breaker had tripped. When i reset the breaker I came back inside to find that the oven still would not work. Stove works just fine. I took the back panel off of the stove and did not see any unusual burning of any wiring or even anything burnt on the circuit board. The only thing I can think of could possibly be one of the elements shorted out. would this fix the problem and get power back to the panel if this is what it is?
The pop was a shorted wire.
The short drew sudden over-amp at breaker.
Amps = heat.
Breaker senses heat and trips before wire to oven is damaged, and before the arcing short can cause a fire.
Was the short at the element?
I don't know, but sounds like the circuit board was damaged.
Of course they are putting electronics inside all appliances today instead of old mechanical dial, because it's cheaper or so much prettier... but new appliances more vulnerable to surge, and other electrical failures. Which is true for all 240V appliances not protected by whole house surge protector.
To test element.
Remove element.
Use a continuity tester across the element connections.
If there is continuity, then the element is probably functional.
Use a multimeter across same element, set multimeter to read ohms.
240 Volt, 3500 watt element should be about 16 ohms.
4500 watt about 12-13 ohms
Volts squared divided by watts = ohms
57,600 divided by 4500 watt = 12.8 ohms
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/ohm-reading-for-emements.jpg
http://waterheatertimer.org/See-inside-main-breaker-box.html
I would guess that the short fried the circuit board, but there is a also a shorted wire somewhere that is still bare and dangerous while power is ON and you are touching oven or stove, unless 240V breaker is GFCI or arc fault, which probably not. Especially dangerous if you are moving stuff around trying to find problem while power is ON.
Gene
h
If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7
SOURCE: Frigidaire electric range smooth top with no oven function
although you dont have hte model number , that is indeed a correct and valid part number for the control lists for a about $120. since your back there give a quick look at the wiring into the unit, is that ok ??? adn where the burnout is on the control does it appear to have shorted out against the back wall??? perhaps a relay on the board just blew??? i really wouldn't thinkn tha another component was goning to make that go bad, also ck the bake and broil elements for continuity, perhapa wire fell off the element blowing out the control
SOURCE: Frigidaire Range control panel DEAD
We tested the EOC and it will indeed need a replacement. Also, just a couple weeks prior we ran the "clean" mode on the oven as did another poster who experienced the "pop" and loss of the control board/oven function, but still had stove top function.
SOURCE: Stove top and oven will not heat
first check your voltage, and the pigtail connections at the stove, then check your elements inside the oven something has shorted
SOURCE: The oven and broiler will no longer come on, but
check the continuity on both your elements as well as the wiring to the unit itself.
if both the elements are good and the wiring is fine then you need to replace the electronic control board
Good Morning Stephanie - Typically you may locate the model and serial number in the storage drawer, on the right side. Based on the symptoms you are describing, you may either have a communication error from the main control board or a faulty bake and/or broiler element. If resetting the unit did not solved the issue, at this point I would personally contact a professional to accurately diagnose the range to determine the root cause to reduce the risk of unnecessary parts.
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