Can't change the end bit - Dewalt 6.3 Amp Dry Wall Screwdriver

You can change to any bit, but have to change the compression collar inside the end of the shaft. For example if the tool shaft size is 1/8" you need to use the 1/8" collar etc. Make sure you use the corresponding bit with the corresponding compression shaft size or the bit will not lock in position when you tighten the collar.

It sounds as though you will have to replace the chuck. Remove the screw (l/h tread) from inside the chuck first before removing it.

check the chuck it migth not be closing ,spray some lubricant or you may have to change the chuck

Most routers have a "Pin" that can be depressed to lock the router spindle. But first, rotate the spindle to match a small hole in the spindle with the pin. With the spindle locked in place, use a wrench (routers often come with this) to loosen the "collet" which holds the router bit. The collet nut will turn counterclockwise when loosening the nut, when looking directly at the bottom end of the router bit, i.e. when looking down at the router when the router itself is up side down.

To install a bit, reverse the process above. Do not overtighten. About a on-eighth turn past handtight will suffice. The collet or the threaded end of the spindle can be stripped out.

Hope this helps.

Typically, the end of the drill where the bit is inserted (called the 'chuck') rotates to loosen or tighten the arms holding the bit in place. Grasp the top of the drill with one hand and rotate the end the bit is inserted into counter-clockwise if the bit end is pointed towards you to loosen the arms and release the bit.

If it is an older drill it may have a 'key' that would look similar to end of a phillips screwdriver on a tee that can be inserted into where the chuck and the rest of the drill assembly meet and twisted to loosen the bit.

If neither of these work post what type of drill you are using as not all hand drills are the same. Hope this helps.

The end of the drill is 2 parts hold the bottom part(closes to the drill) and turn the top part (the end the bits in) and turn it a 1/4 turn counter clockwise that opens the chuck then pull the bit out to replace do the opposite. Don't let the end at the drill spin or it will come off the drill completely if that happens simply line it back up and tap it hard to get it back on

pull the collar on the front forward and insert hex end of bit in and let collar go back. this locks the bit in.

see if there's not secured to the shaft with a screw inside at the bottom of the bit. try to slack it by turnig it clockwise. then catch a 19 mm. open end spanner in a bench wise put the shaft with its two flat sides in the spanner and with a pump pliers catch the bit and unscrew the bit turning counterclockwise this time

slide the orange on/off switch all the way back then push in the black button the switch slides over. This will lock the shaft-then use small wrench provided w/ tool to turn the collet nut

Yep, there are lots of guides out there on eBay or similar, personally I like the one written by TD5Alive, but they're all mostly the same. It boils down to cutting a good bit of metal out of the existing structure of the front end, and then mounting the new light clusters & eyebrows.
Not 100% sure if I'd be happy doing it to mine TBH, it does seem a bit "bodgy". May just buy the front end off a crunched one (that still has a front end of course!) and use that...