I need screws and metal bracket

If the wire is firmly attached wherever it is attached, and properly insulated (i.e. "electrical tape" etc). Then that is not the problem. If the radio is turning _off_ when you hit a bump. (meaning it was "on" and then "bumps" make it go off and on again), then either the radio is loose and needs to be tightened, and/or the ground wire connected _to_ the radio's "metal" is loose; (usually a wire connected to a bolt in the rear of the radio). When I say the radio may be loose and needs to be tightened, I am _also_ saying the radio may be getting it's electrical "ground" just by being bolted onto the car (if the area where the nuts are attaching the radio to the car is made of metal and not just all plastic). // Ok... First, make sure that wire under the dash is a good solid connection and _then_ make sure it is insulated (such as with electrical tape). Then you need to find out if a "ground wire" is going to the back or sides of the metal part of the radio, or if the "ground" is being made where the radio bolts to the car (which would be the case if that area is all metal and not plastic). BTW... That wire that is connected under the dash is connected to "positive". As long as it is a good tight connection, and safely taped or otherwise protected, it is fine and can stay that way. Tighten up the radio's bolts and look to see if there is a wire going to the back metal body of the radio. Make sure it is a good connection. Finally, if the radio is tight, but there is no separate wire going to "ground," and the problem continues... Then the solution is simple. Just add a "ground wire." Run a wire from _any_ area of the dashboard that is _solid_ metal and there is a screw/bolt you can attach the wire to (such as a metal support bracket bolted to the metal dashboard), and then connect that wire to _anywhere_ on the metal of the radio where you can make a solid connection. (There is usually a bolt in the back of the radio that is meant to be used to mount a bracket to make the radio "firm." (so that it _doesn't_ "bounce" around). Anyway, you can attach the wire there if you have a nut that fits the bolt. If not, then simply loosen _any_ screw in the metal area of the radio, and slip the wire under the screw, then tighten the screw with the wire firmly under it. That will give you a "permanent ground," and the bumps won't cause you to "lose ground" anymore when the radio shakes; which it wouldn't do if there was a proper support bracket added to that bolt in the back of the radio. (I've tried to explain this as simply and clear as possible, which is why it is so long, with some "repeating myself". If you can follow this, it _will_ solve your problem). Best of luck... --Gregg

Ok place the small metal cutter on top of the large metal comb, place the white plastic piece into the top of the cutter with the protruding bit at the back, place the metal bracket with 4 holes on top first locating the front into the white plastic slot, then place the last metal bracket on top with the raised part to the front, then simply hold it all together and put the screws in form the back!

Hope I got the right blade style!!

Take a better end view of the output shaft where the sprocket goes and I will be able to tell you what goes there. It normally has either a large nut that threads on the output shaft, a bolt w/washer that screws inside the output shaft, or a retainer clip/metal bracket that attaches to the the sprocket and output shaft. Take some clearer pics of the shaft end and new sprocket and post them.

If you want to put the LCD on a stand you"ll need the original that screws on the bottom. best way to mount LCD is to the wall or on a metal stand. There are holes on the back of the LCD to mount the bracket most brackets have a lot of holes just move the bracket up or down until two line up. The screws are almost all metric coarse thread and usually are included with the bracket kit. I got my kit at Wal Mart

this is hard to say without seeing it, but the mount is one piece but then you have the bracket part this bracket bolts to the motor and the mount sits in it, and a bolt or nut holds the mount to bracket then the other side of mount goes to the frame.

I did this myself before:

Removing the Door Panel

The first thing to do is remove the tab in your door handle that covers the screw (using the flat head screw driver), which secures the handle and window/lock switches to the door panel. Using the Phillips head screw driver, remove the screw. Now, remove the door handle and locate the tabs securing the wire harness for the door locks & power windows. Using the flat head, push down on the tabs and pull the male end out of the wire harness with your other hand. You can now locate 2 of the 3 bolts/screws that secure the door panel to the door.Using the 10mm socket, 3′ extension, and the 1/4′ drive socket wrench – remove the bolts/screws. Located behind the interior door handle is a plastic covering with a hole cut in it, that goes around the rubber piece that is there to stop the handle.Use the flat head screw driver to remove that plastic piece. Behind that piece, you will find the 3rd and final bolt/screw that secures the door panel. Using the 10mm socket, 3′ extension, and 1/4′ drive socket wrench, remove the bolt/screw. At this point you can pull the door panel off by hand.There are only tabs holding it on now, and they all will pop off. Now on the inside of the panel, you will need to locate the backside of the interior door handle. Remove the cables that operate the door lock, and opening mechanism. No tools are required for this step. Now you have the metal door panel, which is secured by 11-12 bolts/screws around the boarder of the panel.Locate the wire harness for the window motor in the upper right corner of the metal door panel. Using the flat head screw driver, disconnect the wire harness.After removing the panel, you will need to push the rubber grommet through the panel – the wire is attached to it. There will also be two white tabs on the backside of the panel that secure the female end of the window motor wire harness to the panel. Using your fingers (or pliers) pinch them, to remove the harness.

At this point, you can remove the 11 – 12 bolts/screws that are holding the panel to the door.The panel will not fully remove, but will come off a little bit. Now for the gold colored bolts/screws and nuts.Three of the bolts/screws are what secure the window motor to the panel.The other two bolts/screws, and the 2 nuts hold the brackets that hold the glass in place.there is one of these bolts/screws, and one of these nuts on each bracket (on each side). Using the 10mm socket, remove all of the bolts/screws.The Nuts are a 12mm socket; remove them as well. The panel should now come off, and the motor & guts of the door, will be revealed.

One can only remove the plastic neck of the stand by removing not only its four visible screws, but also the two screws at the invisible inside of the neck. To get to these, you have to remove the neck together with its metal foot. To do so, you should remove the 4 [four!!] bolts/screws that fix the metal bracket to the frame of the monitor, and then loosen the two screws at the outer left and right of the plastic back of the monitor [to get some room to move], and then slide the metal foot down and out. After removing the neck [and if you wish: also the metal] you should reposition all 4 four!] of its bolts/screws, since these are needed to keep the front and back of the monitor together. Also thighten the 2 screws at the outer left and right.

If you can remove the top cover from the sorter, you will see what holds the sorter to the copier. There are two brackets with 1 screw each. The screws are vertical into brackets. After removing both screws, each bracket will pivot away from the copier to free the sorter. Hiope this helps. PS. 1 bracket towards front, 1 bracket towards rear.

First take off the seat, turn it upside down, unscrew the two screws and two bolts that hold the two parts of the seat together. Separate the pillion and rider seat (takes a bit of wiggling), now you can concentrate on the riders seat. undo the four screw that hold all the rubber gromets down (make a note of the direction they are facing), and unbolt the two small bolts on the front. The seat should now come apart, move the bracket at the back of the seat down a hole. Re-attach the two halfs of the seat at the front but this time one hole up. You should see a gap between the two halfs. Put the rubber gromets back on, this is where I went wrong the first time, TURN THE FRONT TWO 180 degrees and leave the back ones how they are. Screw everything back together and you have one raised seat my long legged friend.

I have some basic instructions for cribs in general, I hope it helps.
http://www.babeetenda.com/cribinst.htm
Of coarse there may be slight differences. If you listed the brand, I could see if there are proper instructions for it.