Blown speaker Speaker blown and need replacement. Or advice how to repair the blown voice coil.how to remove the cone without damaging it?

Figure out if its a blown coil or damaged cone

1. Blown Coil:

The voice coil is the component, which amplifies the current run through the speakers. If you doubt that the coil is damaged, connect the terminals of the coil to a multimeter, and if there is no resistance detected, it could be because the coil is damaged.

2. Damaged Speaker Cone:

If there are no issues with the coil, the next possibility can be a damaged speaker cone, which can be detected easily. In normal condition, since the subwoofer is built on a suspension system, the cone is easy to move. Look for the following signs to understand that your speaker cone is damaged:

• If you could gently take the cover of the subwoofer off and check for the movement of the cone by gently pushing along the sides
• If the cone is rigid and does not move its indicator

Once you make sure that you have a blown subwoofer, the next step will be deciding on how to replace it. Imagine if your subwoofers can be fixed easily with minimal efforts within a set budget rather than buying a new one.



Then

1. Detaching the speakers:

Use a screwdriver to take the speakers from the place where it is mounted and take off the attached wires. After that, separate the surround and the frame by removing the glue on the frame edge by using a small knife or a sharp object like a tester edge. Be very careful when you do this because the frame edges can be damaged.

2. Separate the voice coil and speaker cone:

Using the same small knife or a tester edge, slowly take out the voice coil from the speaker cone. Cut all the terminal wires and keep the voice coil, speaker cone, and spider separately in place.

3. Fixing the new voice coil:

Clean the trapped dust particles in the voice coil gap carefully by using the compressed air. The voice coil is the piece of wire that is attached to the speaker cone, and that is responsible for amplifying the current, which is passed through the speakers. Remove the old voice coil and fix the new voice coil within the space if the problem is with the coil. Place the spider around the new voice coil, replace the spider and then the speaker cone in the middle. Don't forget to apply enough glue so that the cone doesn't come out. Let it dry for about 24 hours.

4. Fixing the speaker frame:

After it is dry, apply glue on the surround to fix the speaker frame and the cone in the right position. Now we are about to reassemble the components of the sub-woofer.

5. Fixing the wires:

Once all the components are put together in the right place, use a soldering iron to connect the old terminal wires with the new voice coil terminal wires, if the voice coil is replaced. If the new cone has no pre-attached wires, use small wires to the terminal wires, and then create small holes in the cone. Place the wires into the holes and connect them to the voice coil using the soldering iron.Now the connection is also reestablished.

The voice coil in the big speaker could have been damaged if driven to loud. See if the burnt smell is strongest near the center of the big speaker. If the voice coil is fried, you may be able to still find a replacement as there is a part number for the voice coil (V/C Assy, EON-G2220-27005-00) and the cone (EONG2
Cone Repl. C2REON15P-2)

Speaker lesson here. For space and time, I'll not get into certain nomenclature. Working from top to bottom, you have the cone, rubber surround, basket, spider, voic coil former, voice coil, and the magnet. The binding posts are connected to the tensil leads which connect to the spider and the voice coil. As the woofer is positively + and negatively - charged, it creates a magnetic field which moves the woofer up and down. There is a small gap between the magnet and the voice coil and former that's called a magnetic gap. This gap is what helps the speaker to move up and down, and creates the Xmax. The Xmax of the woofer is the maximum linear excursion the woofer can travel without causing permanent damage. With a blown speaker, normally the voice coil and voice coil former have been pushed out of the correct magnetic gap, usually around the top of the magnet. That means that the only way to fix it is to take the woofer completely apart. My suggestion is to just go and spend the money. A blown speaker is a sign of abuse, and voids warranties from the majority of companies out there to include Kicker.

Since the coil is attached to to cone, you are looking at replacing the whole 15" driver (speaker)
To get access to the screws that hold it in place, you'll need to remove the front bezel from the cabinet, then remove the screws around the speaker's rim.

For what it's worth, that driver isn't a subwoofer, it's just a 15" driver. JBL does make 15" and 18" subwoofer drivers, but they aren't the same speaker as what's in this EON. Hopefully that will help you when you're shopping for a replacement driver.

If these are Cerwin Vega speakers or any other for that matter thay need to be refoamed. See a local speaker repair shop about refoaming. Dont use them till you get them refoamed. It is like the speakers suspension and stops the driver from going to far in its excursion.

Yes you can if you >
The term blown speaker can have several meanings. If it was not fixable I would say it was a blown speaker.

So 1st is it a Subwoofer or a midrange.
The Sub a little easier to fix you can send it Back to the maker of the sub and they will fix it ($)
If the cone is damaged then just use silicon
if the wires + - that are attached to the basket and the cone have fried .Soilder a new coper wire on
If the voice coil has ripped silicon
and if the copper coil is melted (you can see it but the cone will not move in or out Frozen) then this is a good time to replace it

You can go online and see if there are professional Repair kits

Thank You Please Rate this solution

I think that one reason for a speaker to rub is due to over heating of the voice coil. This happens when power is applied to the speaker that is greater than the speaker is capable of handling. A second cause could be that the suspension and or cone is damaged or degraded causing the coil to be tilted or off center. In either case nothing short of rebuilding the speaker can be done to repair the speaker. Rebuilding would involve removing the cone and voice coil and replacing with new items. If you were talented you might be able to repair the existing cone or voice coil but the results could be iffy.

i have a problem, i dont think my speaker is blown, but , it just looks like the wiring broke on the coil at the end that connects to the cone, i think thats how i can best describe it..its a 10" pioneer IMPP w/ integrated voice coil cooling system 500w max and also it looks like where the wires broke, the coil cam unglued from the cone.. hope someone can help me..is this something i can repair on my own or is it garbage?

Hello. I do speaker reconing and amp rebuilds for a living and the L7's often suffer from tinsel leed wire breakage which can cause "poping" and "screaching" noises in the sub in various cone positions. You need to remove the sub and push straight down on the cone repeatly and determine if you can feel or hear crunching noises to make sure the voice coil and/or spider are not damaged. A faulty leed wire can usually be identified by a dark spot or obvious breakage. All of the L5 and L7 models can be successfully repaired as long as they are the older models that have a center cap in the cone. The newer capless models will have to have an upper brace cap glued to all of the cone's fingers and will have a rather ugly appearance. Leed wire overhauls usually run around $30.00 for the older models. Voice coil and spider overhauls run around $90.00.

You may have broken the cross over, which is fixable by an service agent, or you may have damaged the voice coil in the mid driver. you can check this by sofly pushing the main driver in, making sure that you done push the cone, if there is a lot of resistance then you have damaged the voice coil, and you will need to replace the driver.