Drain pump does not run.

sounds like the transmission needs replaced

The safety latch could be worn or stuck, the lid not closing tight enough to disenage the safety lever

Hi lauraeuschwa,

I believe your drain pump filter is just clogged. The drain pump is trying to pump the water out before the Spin cycle, but can't. Usually this is caused by a foreign object that is obstructing the impeller. See my tip on how to access, drain & clean the Drain Pump Filter:

ACCESS, DRAIN & CLEAN THE DRAIN PUMP FILTER

After this, the Spin cycle will run, after the drainage procedure. If it does not, then you may need to replace the Drain Motor. Which is a easy task.

Kind Regards :-)

* If this solution helped you, please rate it

Hi
Error F02 appears after 8mins of SUDs error. Error F02 means Long drain, means washer is taking longer time than normal to drain. Press PAUSE/CANCEL twice to clear the display. NOTE: After 4 minutes the SUD error will be displayed, and then 4 minutes later the F02 error code will be displayed.
? Check the drain hose and make sure it is not plugged or kinked.
? Check the electrical connections at the pump and make sure the pump is running.
? Check the drain pump filter for foreign objects.
? If the above does not correct the problem, replace the pump.
There are 3 small 9/32 hex head screws that hold the front panel on. Unscrew the 3 hex head screws (9/32 socket or nut driver size), now remove the front kick panel. Unscrew the white drain cap -WARNING-- lots of water will drain out when you loosen the white cap. Once all the water is out, remove and take out the filter trap.
Hope this helps... Please post back for more information
Daniel

If the timer advances normally thru the spin and drain steps of the cycle you selected, than the problem that would cause neither spinning or draining, is the wash motor is not reversing. The motors is a two direction motor. It spins clockwise for normal agitation, but counterclockwise to engage the wash drum clutch and operate the drain pump. I would ask you to check for motor sounds at all during the spin and drain cycles. The pump reversing in the spin or drain cycles can be a function of the machine's lid safety switch, or if not the motor switch or timer contacts. The lid switch is first thing to check here, for sure! If the machine seems to stop running when it comes time to drain or spin, the lid switch is your best bet!

Hope this helps.

kcomp1863

If suds are detected continuously by the pressure switch during the drain or spin phases, the washer will fill 4 liters ofwater and during 5 minutes the unit will rest without tumbling, the water will be drained and it will try to spin or drain again.


Possible Causes/Procedure
If too much detergent was used:
Run the unit through a RINSE/SPIN cycle.
Run a NORMAL cycle without adding any detergent.
This should clear the unit of the excess detergent.

1. Check the drain hose and make sure it is not plugged or kinked.
2. Unplug washer or disconnect power.
3. Check wire harness connections to the drain pump, pressure
switch, and Central Control Unit (CCU).
4. Check/clean drain pump filter of foreign objects.
5. Plug in washer or reconnect power.
6. Check drain pump.
7. Check the pressure switch.
8. Verify CCU operation by running a Diagnostic Test or any Cycle.

There is a water pump in the machine which pumps the water out of the outer tub and into the drain, after the wash and rinse cycles.
It is possible that this pump isn't working properly. I think if it weren't working at all, you wouldn't be able to get beyond the wash cycle.

It has been my experience that small articles of clothing may get washed or spun out of the inner tub and into the area around the pump pick up, thus partially blocking the flow to the pump.
It's also possible that the drain hose from the pump to the drain may be partially clogged.
It is also possible that the pump doesn't run sufficiently long to get all of the water out because its' motor gets hot and shuts down or because of a problem in the control mechanism which manages the the starting and run time of the pump.

First, I would unplug the washer from the wall outlet and probe under the inner tub, or possibly remove the tub to see that there is no blockage from clothing.
It's also possible that things left in clothing pockets like paper clips, small plastic items, etc. can get into the pump and lock up the impeller.
If you're sure it isn't blocked you can then run a "short cycle", no load and water only, and watch to see how much water comes out of the discharge hose where it's hung on the drain pipe.
It should gush out, and tub should be free of standing water prior to the start of the first rinse cycle.
If it does not, then you'll have to access the pump and clear it of obstructions or replace it, if defective.

As it drains, it should start spinning slowly, then speed up as it drains; the final portion of the spin cycle is very fast.
Essentially, the spinning tub wrings out the clothes using centrifugal force.

With the water remaining in the bottom of the tub, it would appear that it is:
a) not spinning long enough, or
b) there is something preventing all the water from getting out in the time allotted by the timer to perform this task.


A fair handy man can get to pump either from the rear of the machine with back plate off, or by removing the cabinet cover from the frame, depending on the model of the the machine.

As always - before attempting any repair, UNPLUG THE UNIT!



When clothes are wet at the end of a cycle, check these:

Motor coupler
To test the motor coupler, re-start the washer in its spin cycle. Let the machine run for a minute, and then open the lid and notice whether the tub is spinning:
If it's spinning when you lift the lid, the coupler is fine.
If it isn't spinning--and your machine was produced by Whirlpool®--you may have a broken coupler. Many Whirlpool-made washers use a small, relatively inexpensive device called a motor coupling. This plastic-and-rubber component is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. When that happens, you need to replace it completely.

Spin cycle
If the washer doesn't reach its proper spin speed, the clothes may be too wet at the end of a cycle. Check to be sure the load is properly balanced and run a spin cycle again. If the clothes are still wet, you may have a worn or loose belt (Maytag®), a worn clutch (GE®/Hotpoint®), or a worn motor pulley or tub bearing. Replace the applicable component.
Alternatively, there could be clothes caught between the inner and outer tubs. Read the "It spins but won't pump" section of the "It won't drain" section. Also, there could be other things that cause friction on the drive train. Seek the assistance of a qualified appliance repair technician.

Siphoning
If the water that pumps from the machine goes right back into the machine after the spin cycle, it may be because your washer is siphoning the water from a laundry tub with a slow drain, back into the washer. Try to improve the draining of the laundry tub. (Is there something stuck in the drain?) Also, be sure the drain hose doesn't reach more than about 4 inches into the laundry tub. If it does, cut off the excess.

Water-inlet valve
Water-inlet valves eventually fail. One problem that may develop with a water-inlet valve is that it can no longer completely shut off when the electricity is turned off to it. Then, the valve may leak and drip water into the clothes tub--you may notice that your washer has water in it when you haven't used it for a few days. To fix this, replace the valve.




Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question

As long as the washer is running in the spin cycle, it should drain. The plug I am talking about is in the machine hoses. Sometimes a belt can jump off the pump pulley and not spin it fast enough. If you set the hose in a bucket or floor drain, will the washer drain?
There are no other switches that control the pump.

There is a water pump in the machine which pumps the water out of the outer tub and into the drain, after the wash and rinse cycles.
It is possible that this pump isn't working properly. I think if it weren't working at all, you wouldn't be able to get beyond the wash cycle.

It has been my experience that small articles of clothing may get washed or spun out of the inner tub and into the area around the pump pick up, thus partially blocking the flow to the pump.
It's also possible that the drain hose from the pump to the drain may be partially clogged.
It is also possible that the pump doesn't run sufficiently long to get all of the water out because its' motor gets hot and shuts down or because of a problem in the control mechanism which manages the the starting and run time of the pump.

First, I would unplug the washer from the wall outlet and probe under the inner tub, or possibly remove the tub to see that there is no blockage from clothing.
It's also possible that things left in clothing pockets like paper clips, small plastic items, etc. can get into the pump and lock up the impeller.
If you're sure it isn't blocked you can then run a "short cycle", no load and water only, and watch to see how much water comes out of the discharge hose where it's hung on the drain pipe.
It should gush out, and tub should be free of standing water prior to the start of the first rinse cycle.
If it does not, then you'll have to access the pump and clear it of obstructions or replace it, if defective.

As it drains, it should start spinning slowly, then speed up as it drains; the final portion of the spin cycle is very fast.
Essentially, the spinning tub wrings out the clothes using centrifugal force.

With the water remaining in the bottom of the tub, it would appear that it is:
a) not spinning long enough, or
b) there is something preventing all the water from getting out in the time allotted by the timer to perform this task.


A fair handy man can get to pump either from the rear of the machine with back plate off, or by removing the cabinet cover from the frame, depending on the model of the the machine.

As always - before attempting any repair, UNPLUG THE UNIT!



When clothes are wet at the end of a cycle, check these:

Motor coupler
To test the motor coupler, re-start the washer in its spin cycle. Let the machine run for a minute, and then open the lid and notice whether the tub is spinning:
If it's spinning when you lift the lid, the coupler is fine.
If it isn't spinning--and your machine was produced by Whirlpool®--you may have a broken coupler. Many Whirlpool-made washers use a small, relatively inexpensive device called a motor coupling. This plastic-and-rubber component is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. When that happens, you need to replace it completely.

Spin cycle
If the washer doesn't reach its proper spin speed, the clothes may be too wet at the end of a cycle. Check to be sure the load is properly balanced and run a spin cycle again. If the clothes are still wet, you may have a worn or loose belt (Maytag®), a worn clutch (GE®/Hotpoint®), or a worn motor pulley or tub bearing. Replace the applicable component.
Alternatively, there could be clothes caught between the inner and outer tubs. Read the "It spins but won't pump" section of the "It won't drain" section. Also, there could be other things that cause friction on the drive train. Seek the assistance of a qualified appliance repair technician.

Siphoning
If the water that pumps from the machine goes right back into the machine after the spin cycle, it may be because your washer is siphoning the water from a laundry tub with a slow drain, back into the washer. Try to improve the draining of the laundry tub. (Is there something stuck in the drain?) Also, be sure the drain hose doesn't reach more than about 4 inches into the laundry tub. If it does, cut off the excess.

Water-inlet valve
Water-inlet valves eventually fail. One problem that may develop with a water-inlet valve is that it can no longer completely shut off when the electricity is turned off to it. Then, the valve may leak and drip water into the clothes tub--you may notice that your washer has water in it when you haven't used it for a few days. To fix this, replace the valve.




Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question

Alicia7q : Faulty water pump or restriction in drain line between tub and outlet hose.

arlenekc,: That metal thing is part of the motor. What you have is a leaking water pump.

badwasher,: Check the lid switch. This machine will not spin or drain if the switch is faulty.