Trying to connect a Tork A530 MW timer to a spa tub pump

SOURCE: Not sure how to wire my Tork 1103 timer

The L terminal would be for your "hot" incoming black wire. The X terminal would be for your load outgoing black wire. Connect both white neutral wires to the blank terminal (notice this feeds the timer motor. The other two terminals (1&2) are not necessary if it is a 110V single circuit.

SOURCE: Im installing a TORK 1103.. Im hooking this timer

Tork 1103 is mechanical timer with 125V 3 watt clock motor
Dial on front face rotates when clock has voltage
Dark and light colored pins connected to dial, and turn timer on and off
There is removable brass bar that connects poles L and 1

You have 4 wires:
Red >>> I'm not sure about this wire, is this Hot wire coming from tandem breaker?
Black >>> this is Hot wire coming from tandem breaker
White >>> this is Neutral wire
Bare ground

Test wires:
Please test Black and Red to bare ground to see if these are both Hot
Test Hots to white to confirm this is Neutral
Solution ASSUMES black and red are both Hot, and white is Neutral

You have 2 problems:
Prob 1) Clock does not rotate dial: so clock is bad -or- clock not wired correctly
Prob 2) You are able to control 4 plugs using manual override, which means load wires are correct
However, you want to wire timer 'without red wire' (which is confusing, since red wires are connected to outlets)


Solution Prob 1:
1) The diagram show the N or Neutral wire is connected to Unmarked pole on timer
2) Black Hot has to be connected to pole L
3) Unmarked pole and pole L must be wired with 120V as shown before dial will rotate
4) If wiring is correct and dial does not rotate, then clock motor is bad
5) If dial rotates, check outer rim of dial to see if you have dark and light pins for on-off functions
6) Notice that all the Neutrals connect on Unmarked pole

Solution Prob2:
Are you saying that the household wiring extends beyond the 4 plugs, so when you turn off the 4 plugs, it also turns off more plugs and switches farther down the line? If so, you need to wire plugs with separate hot wire.
Let me review features on timer which might help:
1) There is removable brass bar between poles L and 1
2) If brass bar is removed, then you need Hot wires on both L and 1... but you can jumper between L and 1 with short black wire
3) If brass bar is there, then one Hot connected to either L or 1 will power both clock and load.
4) Timer is DPST double pole single throw ... so you can control 2 different loads ... one load connects to Unmarked pole and pole X ... another load connects to Unmarked pole and pole 2

If brass bar is removed:
Jumper between poles L and 1 ... so only one Hot wire is used on your timer.

Below shows jumper on poles L & 1: hot to load is on pole 2

SOURCE: I have a 110 Pool

Here is Tork 1103 wired for single load.

1) The green pump wire and bare copper wire go to green ground screw
2) Pump black wire goes to pole 2, the NO (normally open) pole
3) Pump white wire goes to unmarked screw

4) Black from circuit breaker goes to pole L
The T1103 comes with a removable brass bar that connects pole L and pole 1
If that removable brass bar is not there, then add a jumper between pole L and pole 1 as shown in diagram above
5) White neutral from breaker box goes to unmarked pole (all whites connect to unmarked pole)

In your case, pole X is not used. Pole X is NC or normally closed > which means the power is ON continuously until timer turns on, and when timer turns ON, the NC pole turns OFF

SOURCE: I have a tork 1101

This is for 120 volts ONLY. The incoming "main" black wire from the circuit breaker or source connects to terminal 1. Leave the bridge in place between L and 1. The outgoing black wire to the load connects to terminal 2. Both white wires connect to x.

SOURCE: i have a tork 1103 electromechanical switch. its working but wont

T1103 can be wired many ways.
T1103 has 240V clock motor.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Tork-timers-and-manuals.html#1101

You are connecting 240Volt pool pump to timer.
Open link below and see wiring diagram: look at bottom left diagram:
http://waterheatertimer.org/pdf/110111021103WIRING.pdf

Electricians don't guess, they test.
Turn power off and separate wires for testing.
Tape tester leads to wood sticks to keep hands away from power.
Stand on dry boards. Wear dry clothes.
Do not touch anything metal.
Turn power ON.
Test each wire to bare ground wire.
For 240V circuit, two different wires should light up tester. Working from your description, by code, these wires should be black and red.
Each of these wires is Hot wire.
These are called Line wires, wires going to pump are called Load wires.
Hot wires connect to terminals L and 1. This will power the clock motor and dial will rotate as time passes, assuming clock motor is good.

Hots are identified.
Test one of the hot wires to remaining wire, and not to bare ground.
Tester lights up on Neutral wire. This should be white wire.
Double check that Neutral wire did not light up on bare ground.
Neutral is not connected to any 1103 terminal.

Remaining wires go to Load (pool pump).
By code, assuming Hot Lines are Red and Black, the Red & Black Load wires connect to X terminal and 2 terminal, in either order. One wire on each terminal.
White wire connects to Neutral wire and is covered with wire nut.

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