How to replace belt by motor

It definitely sounds like the belt is stretched, worn-out, and in need of replacement.

remove lower front cabinet usually screw in each lower corner ... more than likely the belt is broken,,, but could be a couple of things that caused it ,,,,

1st i would check to see if the pump is plugged or locked up.... the pump is bolted to the bottom side of motor 3 long torx screws the pump its plastic and usually grey .... motor and the belt is looped inbetween the pump and motor... if these two coponets move freely then its the tub seal and bearing and i would reccomend replacing the unit........

Belt is broken. Remove front cover of washer. If you look where top meets front in the seam there are two clips, using a flat head screwdriver push into seam and pop clip. Front will then remove. Check belt at bottom of unit. Replace with the same belt. Difficult to get new belt on! You have to start with belt on motor pulley then on drum pulley holding and turning drum pulley as you stretch belt around pulley. Replace front cover.

Sounds like the motor is not engaging. Or the agitator is stuck.

Replacing Drive Belts and Tightening Pulleys

The drive belt (or belts) of a washing machine may become worn or damaged, causing noisy operation or stopping the washer entirely. A damaged drive belt is easy to replace. Remove the back panel of the washer to gain access to the belt. To remove the belt:

Step 1: Loosen the bolt on the motor bracket and move the motor to put slack in the belt.

Step 2: Remove the old belt and stretch a new one into place on the pulleys.

Step 3: To put tension on the new belt, use a hammer handle or a short pry bar to push the motor into position while you tighten the bolt in the adjustable bracket. The belt should have about 1/2 inch deflection when you press on it at the center point, midway between the pulleys. If the belt is too loose, it will slip on the pulleys, causing the machine to malfunction. If the belt is too tight, it will wear very quickly and will probably become so hot that it will start to smoke or smell.

Loose pulleys can also cause problems. Most pulleys are fastened to shafts with setscrews around the hub of the pulley. These screws must be tight or else the pulley or belt will slip. The resulting malfunction may seem to be caused by a faulty motor, but it can be corrected by tightening the pulleys and adjusting the belt. For this reason, always check the belts and pulleys before working on the motor.

Servicing the Motor

In most cases, motor malfunctions should be handled by a professional; do not try to fix the motor yourself. If the motor is a universal motor, however, you can change worn carbon brushes when sparking occurs, as detailed in the how to repair appliances article. To save the expense of a service call, remove the motor from the washer and take it to a professional service person, then reinstall the repaired or new motor yourself. To access the motor, remove the back panel of the washer. The motor is mounted on an adjustable bracket.There is one other motor problem you can repair yourself. Washer motors usually have an overload protector clipped to the motor. When this component fails, the motor won't work. Before you take the motor in for service, test the protector with a VOM set to the RX1 scale. Disconnect one electrical lead wire to the protector and clip one probe of the VOM to each protector terminal. The meter should read zero. If the needle jumps higher, the protector is faulty and should be replaced. Pry up the protector with a screwdriver and replace it with a new one made specifically for the motor or washer. Connect the new protector the same way the old one was connected.

Servicing the Tub and Agitator


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Replace a damaged agitator
with a new one of the same type.
Unscrew the cap on top of the
agitator and pull straight up;
the agitator should lift off.
The washing machine tub, or basket, generally doesn't cause problems. However, at times it may cause damage to the laundry, make a lot of noise, vibrate, or stop completely.

If laundry is torn during the wash cycle, feel around the tub. If you find a rough spot, you may be able to smooth it with an emery board. Sand the spot lightly. If this doesn't work -- or if you have to cut to bare metal to remove the roughness -- the tub should be replaced. In this case, it's probably much wiser to replace the entire washer.

The agitator -- the finned part that fits on the tub shaft -- can also tear laundry if the fins are cracked or broken. You may be able to solve the problem temporarily by pinching off the splinters with pliers and lightly filing the plastic smooth, but this is just a stopgap measure; the agitator should be replaced. Replace a damaged agitator with a new one of the same type. To do this, unscrew the cap on top of the agitator. With the cap off, pull straight up on the agitator; it should lift off. If it doesn't move, rap its side with a hammer. If it still won't lift off, drive wedges under the bottom rim of the agitator to dislodge it. Then set the new agitator into place and replace the agitator cap.

Damage to the snubber, a padlike device sometimes located under the agitator cap, can cause the machine to vibrate excessively. The snubber may have a suspension spring in it. Lift off the agitator cap and examine the snubber. If the spring is broken, or if the pad is visibly worn, replace the entire snubber. Snubbers might also be found at the splash guard at the top of the tub, under the transmission, or as part of the water pump housing. Look around until you see it.

If the machine doesn't have a snubber, listen for noise at the suspension unit between the tub and the machine cabinet. The suspension unit has fins or pads that may need replacement. In some cases, the entire unit may have to be replaced. Another noise point is the basket support nut. Tighten the nut or, if you can't tighten it, replace it.

Sudden tub stops can be caused by a broken motor belt, but they are usually due to poor tub loading. Check to see if wet laundry is wadded around the bottom of the tub shaft, or under the basket or agitator assembly. Remove the basket or agitator in order to remove the laundry easily.

Same problem here with same make/model. I am not an expert "washing-machine-guru", but I do have a fair level of technical knowledge. Well, when I inspected my washer looking for the problem I found that the rubber hose used to move water from the drum to the extraction water pump is broken. The water escaping the hose is spilling over the electric motor, motor belt, drum brake and water extraction pump. I removed the hose and inspected it looking for the reason it broke. All I can say is that I think that the material (rubber) used is not top quality. Apparently the cause of the failure is age. Maybe the chemicals running thru it may have debilitate the hose to the point of failure. The drum brake is not operating normal, retaining the drum from spinning when it should be. Also the motor belt have stretched a little bit, maybe because of the water spill. If your Frigidaire FWL22SA is leaking water when the drum is being filled you better refrain from using and inspect the hose. I buy the hose (original spare/repair part) for only $3.99 and installed myself. That is far cheaper vs buying a new washer. Good luck.

Hi 1st remove cabinet by removing 2 screws securing the console to the cabinet top.pry clips at corners and remove .you should now be able to pull cabinet towards you and separate it from chasis .motor /pump at center front bottom.plastic plug on right, wiggle that plug with washer in spin probably bad connection in plug.red/black wire Hope this helps please rate my solution. :)

Leaks water...check the pump first. The fill valve and hoses may be the next step. See how to take apart info. With the use of plastic drain hoses on many machines today, this has become a common leak trouble maker. The drain hose can rub the wall or a pipe and this will rub a hole in the drain hose.
 

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If you had the unit apart, It is possible as well as Lumpy816 correct answers, for a surge in the pressure sensing line to stretch the tiny spring inside the level sensing body.
if replacing the hose does not rectify the problem
Before replacing the pressure switch there are more tests of function
Blow any water out of the air tube, it should be empty when the washer is empty, water remaining in the tube messes up the pressure sensing(usually makes water level lower so doubt this is the fault)
Kenmore pressure switches are adjustable, the adjustment is hidden.
An internal spring stretches over time and does not react properly.
to test whether just the adjustment is required,

1. remove the water level knob from the front side of console
2. depress the lock tab at the right side of water level sensor body where it contacts the back side of the console and rotate counter clockwise 45degrees
3. withdraw water level sensor body
4. adjacent to shaft for the knob is 1/8inch bolt head, turn clockwise to raise, counter clockwise to lower water level.
5. washer can be operated with the console open and the level body removed
6. test, adjust, test adjust.
7. if no effect replace water level sensor body

Check the coupling.
This is a direct drive, no belt. There is a coupling between the motor and the transmission.

Access:
You remove the whole outside cabinet.
Two screws on each end of the control panel will let this panel flip back out of the way then remove the two brass clamps on each side. Unplug the wires in the center and the whole cabinet will come off.

Rick, for the posted model. This is a direct drive washer, no belt. As long as you are draining, I believe you have a broken motor coupler, about a 19.00 part. Check out the attachment, look at # 13. One end to the motor, the other to the trans. You will have to remove the cabinet, pump and motor to get at it. Easy job. Catriver.