Water heater timer

As far as not having as much hot water as before, check the label on the side of the water heater and see what the element wattage is supposed to be. Then take the door off the element cover and look at (don't touch!) the element and see if it is the right one. Also check to see that the voltage matches up (ie: they didn't put a 110 volt element in a 240 volt water heater.)

Any specially sized unit for a mobile home should be fine. Just make sure that the amperage and voltage requirements are the same so you do not have a wiring hassle.

GE15207
-Test across terminals 1 and 2 for 120-277 volt depending on power
-Check if any wires are loose
-Check if any terminals appear burned or damaged
-This timer can be wired many many ways, for seveveral different voltages.
-Testing can differ depending on wiring and voltage.
-For 240 Volt ... generally... set timer to ON position... Test across both NO terminals for voltage
-Add comment with image of wiring and specify the voltage
-Links that help identify problem, wiring, and voltage
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-GE-15207-timer.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/GE-15207-same-wiring.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/Fire-inside-timer.html

Gene

Water Heater Timers Save Money

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

top element fried unless temp was met at time of test

1) Recommend replacing tankless with ordinary tank-type gas water heater.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-install-gas-water-heater.html
http://hometips.me/Mar/Which-is-best-gas-water-heater.pdf

2) Tankless cannot be exposed to more than 11 grains hardness in water or unit will fail within 2-5 years. Water softener is required.
http://hometips.me/Tls/Battelle_Water-softening-research.pdf

3) Descaling tankless water heater each year will not restore functionality, or restore efficiency of tankless, nor restore full efficiency to tank-type gas water heater.

4) Bradford White side-by-side testing research comparing their tankless with their tank-type shows that tankless will save $1-8 per month on energy bill vrs ordianry tank-type ....but conclude that tankless 'fall far short of payback' due to maintenance, repair, installation and replacement costs.
Study compared full cost, and not just monthly energy bill, since All costs are energy.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

Has it ever been? Check the circuit breakers in the house and connections to the unit. Adjust thermostat up and down a bit in case it has stuck. Also an AC voltmeter and skill is needed to carefully check voltages in the terminal box to locate loss of voltage to heater elements, safety thermostats, or open heating coils. LOL

The top element should be heating if there is 240 volts across the element terminals. I take it that the top element is the booster element. The thermostat for the top element is normally a 2 pole thermostat which switches the neutral to the bottom thermostat once it reaches temperature. Once this occurs then the bottom element will start to heat. The top element will only come on when you use all the hot water. Is this supply on the off-peak rate? When testing always check the voltage across the element terminals.

The water heater has two 4500 watt elements.
However both elements are not turned-ON at same time
So the water heater is 4500 Watts

Volts x Amps = watts
Amps =watts divided by volts
Amps = 4500 Watts divided by 240 Volts
Amps= 18.75

So that says a 20 amp breaker ... except for the 80% rule
80% rules says for safety, your Amp rating should be multiplied by 80%

20 amp breaker X 80% = 16 amps
20 amp breaker is actually safe for just 16 amps, and your water heater draws 18.75 amps.

The calculation shows you need a 30 Amp breaker.
30 Amp breaker requires 10 gauge wire.

http://waterheatertimer.org/Figure-Volts-Amps-Watts-for-water-heater.html

Absolutely no hot water indicates the top element or thermostat on the heater. Check to make sure that you have 240 volts on the top two terminals of the top thermostat. If you do then check the top element for voltage. It should also read 240 volts between the two screws. If you have 240 volts there shut off the power, drain the heater to a point below the top element and change the top element. When the element is installed turn your WATER back on and let the air bleed out of several hot faucets in the house. When the faucets stop spitting air you can turn them off. Check for leaks around the element. If you have no leaks turn the power back on the the heater and replace the covers.

That should get you 'back in hot water' in two hours.

Mike

If the water does not heat, then you have to troubleshoot to find the problem. With a voltmeter determine if 240VAC is actually getting to the water heater. Take care here - a defective circuit breaker can give a false 240 volt reading - check for the 240 volts across the upper element (i.e. when the 240 volts has a live load on it, not just an open circuit test).
Also, remember, the upper element has priority over the lower element, and if the water is cold, the upper element will try to turn on and this locks out the lower element (only one element is allowed to heat at any given time). The lower element comes on ONLY after the upper thermostat is satisfied. Therefore if the upper heating element is burned out you will never get any hot water. If you suspect this, TURN OFF THE POWER TO THE HEATER and take a resistance check of the upper element.