I bought a mtx terminator amp model no TNA251 600

That all depends on the wattage of the subs. also the independance of the subs. If your amp is 1400 watt, maximum you want is 2 600watt subs. if your subs are higher you will blow your amp eventually as your amp isnt powerful enough to pump out to that level.You should never have your amp fully turned up to max, 80% is perfect and will not make your amp blow. Hense why you want your subs less than the max output of your amp.

When an amplifier shuts the Bass off that means its going into protection mode otherwise it will burn out the outputs. One way is to turn your gains down, Pioneer amps are not the best amps for bass out there, they are more for car speakers, I personally wont use a pioneer amp to run my subwoofers especially if they are hard driven subs like JL , Kicker Solo's and MTX subs. But for now just turn the gains down to 3/4 and that should help u, you can also install a fan to keep your amp cooler, if this never happened before in 5 yrs and now it does then that means your amp is just tired and the inside components are overheating easily, thats common with Pioneer and Sony amps.

Good luck buddy.

Lex...

Usually a power rating is a power rating, 1000watt rating is a thousand watt rating. The amp will put out 900 watts at 2 ohms.

There on there way to being burnt those subs can handle very little, i used to have those subs and gave them 125 watts each and they sounded perfect.

Hello rigo11785,

The MTX Thunder 1501D is stable at 1ohm and outputs 1,500 watts RMS into that impedance. An L7 with 2ohm DVC's would present a 1ohm load if wired in parallel and would allow the amp to produce more power than into the 4ohm series load. The problem is that the L7's maximum power handling rating is only 1,000 watts RMS, so if you wire the coils in parallel, you'll very likely overdrive the sub and perhaps damage it. Now, if you bought another L7 and ran the voice coils in series and the subs in parallel, that would be a 2ohm load and well within their power handling capability.

With that amp and sub, I'd recommend leaving the voice coils in series.

Hope this helps.

There are a couple of tests you can perform. I'd first recommend checking the shield ground. You'll need an ohm meter. The details can be found on the following page.

RCA shield ground test

You can also test the output with the multimeter. Set the multimeter to AC volts. If it's not an auto-ranging meter, set it to a voltage range of ~2v AC. Disconnect the RCA cables from the head unit. Touch one meter probe to the outer ring of the head unit's RCA jack. Touch the other probe to the metal contact in the center of the RCA jack. With the head unit near full volume and a clean signal source, you should read at least one volt on musical peaks. If you have a bass disc or a test tone disc (~60hz sine wave), use those.

2 X 18" Kicker CVR they will work really clean. 2000 watt max each and 1000 RMS just like your amp.

The amp's not actually a very good match for the sub, since the sub can be wired for 2 ohms or 8 ohms, and the amplifier is most efficient at 4 ohms in bridged mode. My advice would be to wire the amp in bridged mode, and wire the sub for an 8 ohm load. To do this, the amp's (+) wire should go to the (+) terminal on one of the sub's voice coils. Then run a wire from the (-) terminal on the OTHER voice coil to the (-) terminal on the amp. The remaining (+) and (-) terminals (on opposite voice coils) should be connected to each other with a wire. Your original wiring setup had the amplifier connected to only one voice coil, while the other voice coil was shorted.

hi, first disconnect the rca input, then switch on headunit and if the amp produces a constant bass thump it then means it has an internal fault. if the amp idles quietly then replace the rca cable, or try connecting the headunit lineout feed directly to the bass amp, in this way you cud find out if your fault is coming from the headunit or the equaliser. cheers