Need to remove front panel of dle0442w to get to heat limit switch

It is caused by three possible candidates:

(1) The thermal fuse
(2) Heating element
(3) High limit thermostat.

Have these devices checked out and replace the faulty part.

All those parts are in the bottom front. TURN off the power! then open the front door and remove the 4 screw's, 2 on the hindges and 2 on the other side. Then you can close the door, and pull from the top edges of the front panel(sometimes you need a thin screw driver to free the front) the front panel will tilt forward and then you can lift it off. You will need a Ohm meter to check those parts for continuity. Make sure you remove the wires from the part you are testing.

In electric dryers, heat is generated by the heating element. The element is a coil of heating wire enclosed in a metal chamber. Electric current flowing through the coil creates heat and the air being pulled through the chamber absorbs this heat. If the element is defective then it will not heat. It can be tested with a multi-meter for continuity. Unplug the dryer and remove the front or rear panel to locate the element so it can be tested.
The high limit thermostat is a safety device mounted on the heating chamber and is designed to prevent the dryer from overheating when the exhaust vent is restricted. A restricted vent will cause the high limit thermostat to trip or activate, interrupting the circuit to the heating element or gas valve. The high limit thermostat is not designed to activate repeatedly like a cycling thermostat and will eventually fail causing a no heat symptom. Disconnect the power to the dryer and check the thermostat for continuity with a multi-meter. If there is no continuity then it will need to be replaced and the restricted vent system corrected as well.
Cycling thermostats control the temperature inside the dryer drum. They are designed to "cycle" the heating element on and off to maintain the correct amount of heat. Cycling thermostats are normally located on the blower housing or elsewhere in the internal airflow ducting. Over time, the cycling thermostat can become defective. Disconnect the power to the dryer and check the thermostat for continuity with a multi-meter.

Hello Krazy

If your dryer tumbles, but there is no heat. You need to check this following:
Check for proper air flow
Test the safety fuse
Test the thermostats
Test the centrifugal switch
Test the timer motor
Test the heating element

Best Regards
Neciforo Llanto

The common problem in this case is in the high-limit thermostat and the thermal cut-off located on the heater housing. Verify this condition by bypassing the said components. Disconnect power then access the thermal cut-off (cut-out) and the high-limit thermostat by removing the bottom front panel.

Removing Bottom Front Panel



Disconnect the wires of each component then connect them together and insulate it properly. Reconnect the power then start the dryer. The problem is indeed in the thermal cut-off (cut-out) and the high-limit thermostat if the dryer heats up. Replace both parts and it should solve the problem. It is an easy and cheap repair to make. Let us know should you need further assistance.

The problem is either the Safety Thermostat TH2, High-Limit Thermostat TH3, or the Heating Element itself. Here's what you should do find which among is the culprit.

Use a putty knife blade or similar tool to push and release the clips holding the top panel to the front panel. Insert the putty knife between the top panel and the front panel as shown at about 2 and 3/4 inches from the edges then push in until the clips are released then lift the top panel off.


Open the door then remove the two screws at the bottom of the door opening as shown.



Remove the two screws from the upper side of the front panel then pull the panel out and disconnect the Door Switch connector.


Once the front panel is removed, you'll see the Heater Box at the bottom right hand side of the cabinet. Remove the cover and you'll see three sets of the terminals on the left side of the Heater Box. The set of three terminals is the Heating Element, the middle set is the Safety Thermostat TH2, while last set is High-Limit Thermostat TH3.


Using a multimeter, set to the lowest Ohm scale (R X 1), check the continuity of the Safety Thermostat TH2 and High-Limit Thermostat TH3 then the resistance between the middle terminal of the Heating Element and the other two terminals.

The Safety Thermostat TH2 and the High-Limit Thermostat TH3 are both normally closed and any discontinuity (open circuit) found indicates that the component has failed. It is necessary to replace both the Safety Thermostat TH2 and the High-Limit Thermostat TH3 if one of them has failed. The Safety Thermostat TH2 is likely to fail as a result of the High-Limit Thermostat TH3 failure.

The normal resistance between the middle terminal (2) and the upper terminal (1) is 18 ohms to 22 ohms while between the middle terminal (2) and the lower terminal (3) is 9 ohms to 11 ohms. Replace the Heating Element if an infinite resistance (open circuit)reading is obtained in any the measurements.

You may take the Heating Element out then thoroughly check it visually for any obvious coil discontinuity if you don't have a the meter to check the continuity of Safety Thermostat TH2 and the High-Limit Thermostat TH3 and the resistance of the Heating Element. It will be obvious if the Heating Element has a broken coil.

The problem lies in either of the Safety Thermostat TH2 or the High-Limit Thermostat TH3 if the Heating Element coils is intact. Bypass both the Safety Thermostat TH2 and the High-Limit Thermostat TH3 then reconnect the Door Switch connector. Run the dryer and it should heat by now to indicate that either the Safety Thermostat TH2 or the High-Limit Thermostat TH3. Otherwise, it is a totally different story. Please let us know if that is the case.

Warning! Do not use the dryer with the Safety Thermostat TH2 and the High-Limit Thermostat TH3 bypassed due to fire hazards.

Since the dryer runs, the thermal fuses are fine making a possible open circuit condition in any of the heating element, the cycling thermostat, and the high-limit thermostat. Remove the front panel to access the cycling thermostat on the blower housing, the high-limit thermostat on the heating element enclosure, and the heating element itself. Once accessed, check the continuity of the high-limit thermostat and the large terminals of the cycling thermostat. There should be continuity on both parts. Use a volt-ohmmeter and set it to the R X 1 scale. Continuity means zero resistance. Replace the part found with no continuity, i.e., open.

Check the resistance of the heating element using the same volt-ohmmeter set to the R X 1 scale. Replace the heating element should its resistance reads infinite (open).

The front panel can be removed by removing the four screws located vertically along the inside lip of the door opening. These screws hold the front panel to the front shroud assembly.

Once the four screws are removed, grasp and press in on the upper edges of the front panel posts then twist it inward to release the clips holding it to the cabinet. Tilt the top of the front panel and move it away from the dryer. Reinstall it in reverse of the removal steps.

Good day,
The problem is the heating system has failed, unless for some reason the gas is not reaching the machine.
You will need an ohm meter to test the components.
Access to most components is by removing the front panel, and lifting the top lid.

Here is a list of components in the order they tend to fail. The system is not a simple one. True of all gas dryers.

1. Igniter
2. Thermal fuse
3. Gas valve coils
4. Upper limit thermostat
5. Lower limit thermostat
6. Flame sensor
7. Temperature control thermostat
8. Heat selector switch
9. Bad contacts in main control timer
10. Centrifugal switch in main motor

I'm sorry but that is what makes these gas dryers work, and they all have these components, all of which must work to get the unit to fire.

Thank you for using FixYa

Hi.

There is no reset circuit.

Parts that must be tested are high limit thermostat and timer board.
The timer board is replaced if it is visibly faulty, or if there is no problem elsewhere.
The high limit located near to the element is tested reading impedance with a multimeter set at Rx1. If there is no continuity , the thermostat must be replaced.

Before testing parts check the lint filter, and ensure that air ducts are clean.

Regards.

pry the top up at the corners and remove attaching screws for the front panel and remove carefully. Now you should be able to see the canister that contains the heat element and the thermal fuse. If your thermal fuse is bad you also need to replace the high limit thermostat switch which is located on the canister itself and check that the heating element is not broken anywhere throughout the coil.