Powers down at high volumes

Active speakers for a computer contain a high gain amplifier and it is a characteristic of such an amplifier, when the input is open circuit with a lead attached, it will amplify whatever signal the lead is receiving - the open circuit lead will act as an aerial for what has become a crude radio receiver..
The overwhelming signal will be that radiates from the surrounding power wiring - hence the mains hum, assuming it disappears when the volume is turned right down. If it is present with the volume turned down or the input short-circuited it indicates a power supply fault.

A quick test for amplifier functionality is to input a strong mains hum by wetting a finger and touching it to the input.

When I was much younger, one of my amplifiers would receive taxi radios and the police whenever an open circuit lead was connected...

If the receiver works at low volume, but goes into OVERLOAD and shuts down at higher volume, it means you are player the unit too long and too loud. Try yo keep the volume down to a reasonable volume.

Well, here is the situation as I understand it. Here is also some theory to help you out.
Your Receiver or Amplifier has a "scale" showing relative volume. Distortion always increases in speakers and amplifiers when you turn them up. If the sound is getting extremely distorted, the Receiver is attempting to operate above it's maximum output. The scale is an average, but because music recordings are often mastered at different levels, "80" may be too much. When an amplifier section of a receiver is over driven, the distortion (which you observed) will damage or burn out your speakers. Most likely the tweeter (high frequency speaker)
If you back off the volume, or turn down the output of the deck until the sound becomes clear, then that level, IS FULL VOLUME. Based on what you are saying to me, I don't think anything needs service.
There is one other very important thing I should mention to you. When people use high powered equipment and initially turn up the sound. After a short time, the mind turns it down. What next happens is the reason professional musicians and sound engineers often have permanent hearing loss after a relatively short time.
What happens is that the listener and often the engineer running the sound board at a concert thinks the sound is not loud enough (when the audience is happy with the level) and turns it up. After turning it up, his mind (and the audiences') turns it down and then he thinks it not loud and then again turns it up. And up. And up. The only reason I'm not deaf is that I discovered this when I was building sound systems as a kid. I also studied about it. So please be careful when you play things loud. Permanent hearing loss starts to occur at the very high frequencies and rolls down from there over a period of time. Hearing loss can start to occur in just a few hours.
at 110 decibels. It doesn't come back. If you understand this, you'll keep your hearing.
I hope this helps,
Best Regards,
Mark

No, it night seem like it because there will not be any low fequency noise from the sub to match. But, if your bass overpowers the rest of the sound you will need to put an external amp to your mids/tweets

I have a pair of these. Best audio thing I ever did. One amp as the the crossover is built into the amp. If you can find the compatible dual 18s then you'd need a second amp. Recently read a spec that they drop to 20 hz at 10 volts. So when you turn up the volume they rock with the bass truly showing a peak of their capability. These are just amazing. I originally used a crown xri4000. Just bought a Nad T 877 HT and when run only in stereo with QObuz, pretty incredible. Not the final purpose of this amp though. I may use the line outs to integrate the Crown Amps. Still getting an idea. So One powerful amp. You won't blow these out.

Hi bongodboss

The user manual for this amp has good instruction on how to connect it. You can download a copy from here.

Page 9 has info about using the amp for "bi-amping" The amp is only a stereo unit, so to do a 3-way system, you will need at least 1 amp mono in bridge mode for lows, and other stereo amp for mods, and another stereo amp for highs. You could use the internal low pass filter for the bottom end, and a 2 way crossover for the mids and highs. Much simpler doing a 2 way system with composite bins for mids and highs, and subs for lows. You only need the 2 amps and use the low and high pass filters inside the EP2500. If you need anymore help on this, I am happy to talk to you more.

regards
robotek

Had a similar problem, mine was a power problem.
Power meaning voltage.
Those big bass speakers draw lots of power. My original alternator couldn't keep up.

Question: Do your headlights dim in rhythm to the bass hits?

If so, your sound system wants more power than your vehicle is producing.

My first solution was a high output alternator. It worked great.

Then I added another amp. Not great anymore.

My second solution was to tie in a large capacitor to the amps power supply. (These a big (1 farad), about the size of a Pringles can)

Your amps power consumption is not uniform. Each time your amp punches the bass, it draws extra power. If that power isn't available, it starves and shuts down (if only for a second) then restarts.

The higher the gain, especially using a low pass filter, the more power needed for each thump. Thats why when you turn the bass down, you can get higher volume from the rest of the system.

How a capacitor can help (simply put):
In this application, the capacitor acts like an auxiliary battery, smoothing out power fluxuations. The capacitor builds up its charge literally between bass hits when power demand is low. Then releases it's charge when the demand is high. Think of it as an on-demand power boost.

Hope this helped

Mike

try running the system with a cross-over configuration.

So your left + will be left + and your right + will be in the right + but put the right (-) where the left (-) is and left (-) where the right (-) is. If that doesnt work, then that means that you shorted out your audio out channels. the only way you can fix that is if you have good soldering skills. But other than that I'de say scrap it, unless you have the high outputs and then buy another amp, some mids and highs and connect the mids and highs to the xplod

If you still have audio but unable to turn the volume, there are 02 possible problem:
- the volume control is defected will not respond ( electronic volume control; need logic low/high to activate the audio )
- the front control PCB is broken ( can be fixed if there is a small cracked )
If no audio at all then most likely audio output IC defected

Make sure that you are using the right Guage wire for that installation. I had the same problem with another amp. I changed both, power & ground wires to 4 Guage and it worked fine after that. maybe that would work for you.