Unplug the element from the receptacle and then disconnect the receptacle from the point where it plugs into the stove. Now, carefully, turn on power to this heating element. If nothing happens then you have removed the likelihood of a problem in the large portion of the stove's wiring. Next, plug the receptacle cable back into the stove without connecting the heating element. Again, carefully turn on the power to the heating element in question. If there is no spark then the cable, connector and receptacle are ok. If it does spark, replace the receptacle and cable assembly. No spark, then inspect the heating element where it connects to the receptacle. Look for melting or signs of damaged insulation that would allow for a "dead short". If you see damage to the element then replace the element. No damage, clean the connections with a toothbrush, and plug the element back in and turn on the juice. If it sparks again, replace the element. Good luck and be careful. Don't attempt any of this if you are inexperienced in working with electricity. 220 Volts can cause death or serious injury... just the flash from an arc can cause blindness and burns.
SOURCE: stove problem - outer cirlcle of an expandable element not working
You will need to call a professional these are very complicated and not easy to service, there are no fuses either. It will most likely be the element itself that has failed and they are not cheap. It also could be the switch too however it will take a person very familiar with schematics to properly diagnose it. Or you could just replace the element and switch yourself and that would most likely solve it.
SOURCE: Cannot turn on cooktop.
I have a Kenmore Elite Induction Cooktop and we had some milk boil over and now the cooktop is locked. How do you unlock it?
SOURCE: Right front (large) burner indicates hot, won't work, flashes F153
I hade a code 153 also. Changed the element(costly-$200) and had to recalibrate the pan sensors(in the manual). All works fine now.
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