1993 isuzu trooper sohc not sure how to line up cam pullys and or crank pully. oil pump has 3 timming marks 1 is blank at 3 oclock position, the other 2 marks have a 6 and an 8 by them...does number 1 cylinder gotta be up for tdc? and wat about the cam pullys how do thoes go? iam confused help

Its the same as a chevy v8 pull radeator fan water pump lower crank pully loosen oil pan bolts align timing marks crank mark at 12 oclock cam cshaft mark at 6 oclock replace with new gears and chain timing cover gasket crank seal and water pump gaskets

did you know how to replace timing belt it has to be installed in a specified way or it wont start
if it broke and you replaced it then the story is different as if it breaks while running usually it also bends your valves you should see a technician for this

Oil pump has no timing mark. Just get the crank and cam marks aligned. Make sure the belt is tight on the right between the cam and crank sprockets when they are on their marks. Then apply tensioner. OK?

everything is at 12 o'clock. see diagram from autozone.com

easy money, the crank pully cog has a little hash mark on one of the nipples and that lines strait up and down with the hask mark on the tup of the oil pump directly below the crank sensor, the two cam ullys each have a hash mark on the outer edges and the both align strait up and down with the marks on the rear timing covers.

There is a DOHC or SOHC (double or Single overhead cam engone. Both are Similar. Both have a notch on back side of crank pully that aligns with a tab on engine just above crank pully looks like a triangle with the tip near crank pully is rounded off. SOHC engines have an arrow on cam pully that aligns with a point at top of timing belt rear housing. about straight up at top of it. DOHC have an I and an E on the cam pullys I for INTAKE and E for EXHAUST. the I and E match up at same type points on top of rear Timing belt housing. When installing belt make sure you do not move pullys. put belt on starting with cam shaft (s) then down to crank on tension side which looking at motor will be the right side or Clockwise direction keeping it tight no, or EXTREEMLY little slack. then back up around tensioner. Tensioner should be the last pully to go around. Once on make sure timing marks still lline up.Adjust tensioner and. rotate engine BY HAND 4 times and re check marks.

if this is 6VD1 engine it has single cam gear each head, but is still a 2 cams per head, engine
if belt has broke or you have turned any gear you must remove rocker covers to check positions of camshafts front lobes are in certain spot as well as timming mark on belt driven cam gear to cover
this cam gear is a 3:1 ratio (3 turns of cam gear = 1 turn of cams)

Ibring piston to compression stroke. Apiece of tissue in the plug hole will blow out and then turn crank by hand until the piston is at the top. There should be timing mstks on the crankshaft pully.no timing marks? Then ease the crank around untill the piston starts to go done you can feel the piston with a straw. Note, the crank pully keyway more than like be at the 12 oclock position. good luck

if it help let me know

The crank shaft pully will need removal and the water pump pully as well, also the 2 inspection covers and the center housing cover that they conect with, when removed all of the timing belts will be exposed as well as crank shaft end. I used a screw driver angled wedged and held in on the teeth of the fly-wheel to lock it in position so I could remove the crank shaft pully bolt, (standard lefty-loosey threaded). This would have been easier with the fly-wheel locking tool from subaru, or even just a budy to hold the fly-wheel while i turned the bolt loose at the crank pully. I unbolted the fan and slid it out of the way, I did not even need to unplug it. just be sure battery is not conected. The oil dip-stick tube has one 12 mm bolt at the end of a brace at top of engine. loosen and pull up and forward to remove. the crank shaft bolt-you will need to put back in the bolt only! on the end of the crank shaft so you can rotate the engine manualy with a socket on the crank shaft pully nut, while looking through the hole on the top of rear engine area just above fly wheel. wach fly wheel as it turns, look for 3 lines side by side these are not the timing degree marks they are seperate from them, align them to the little arow on the houseing in front of the 3 little marks. be sure the e-brake is set, trany in nutral so engine can turn freely. inspect the cam shaft pullies, on the surface there are 4 evenly spaced holes, there is one tiny hole that lays between the other holes, this little hole that is the pully mark, it needs to be at the twelve oclock position, there is a small groove on the housing at the twelve oclock position as well. align the two with each other, the little hole with the little notch directly above. do the same for the other side cam pully, same way. loosen the idler pulies for each belt, 2 bolts, move it to its full retracted position, pushing on it with fngers against spring tention, titen one of the nuts so the pully stays retracted/pushed. remove old belts, being carefull not to move the place marks of either of the 2 cam shafts or the engine crank placement. put in the new belts check to see if belt has a direction of dravel and match with engine, mine it did not matter but was told that it may with other belt makers? i don't know about that? but thought it was worth the warning?
once belts are on be sure again that marks all mate with marks on all 3 points crank and fly-wheel, both cam shaft pullies with notchs, now release the tnsion on the idler pullies, and retighten where they fell. check again on the 3 timing points be sure they have not moved again... tireing but worth it. if the have moved off of any mark you must realign it by moveing the pully to the rite spot and putting the belt back on. one tooth off on the drivers side of engine cam can meen up to 16 degrees of timing lose either way of perfect. once aligned, put the center cover back over the crank shaft, bolt on. put on the oil dip stick, put on the water pump pully and crank shaft pully, put on belts. leave the fans out untill all is done, just be sure they are free of obstacles so if they come on later it does no harm to it, you, or anything else. leave off the inspection covers at each cam pully. be sure to un block the fly-wheel. re asemble engine and componants to the installed normal positions as best as posible. re conect battery, be sure all tools are clear, start engine, if it will not run smoothly re set the distributer for timing, if still runs bad, you may have one or both cams off by plus or minus 1-2 teeth one the belts. this was hell... you have to move one side one tooth and start the engine and time it again, if that was not it then you move one tooth in in the oposite direction from the oiginal spot, now 2 teeth the oposite way. if not better put back on the original tooth, and do the same to the other cam one step and start at a time untill you find it to work the best, it may even be off by 1 tooth on the rite and 1- tooth on the left. This was a nite-mare but i finaly found the rite placements.
take 2 aspirin, advil, etc. pre-medicate for the manditory headache. and best of luck..
if you are wondering if the valves and the pistons may have struck, forget it subaru made this 1.8l engine as a none contacting engine, this meens that they can never touch piston to valves even in a cam belt failure.