Replacement parts front leg inserts

This depends on what forks are fitted. Adjustment is usually done on the top of each leg. Look at the very top of each leg. if it is a flat plastic cap it is not adjustable.
If there is a twist top or a large nut shaped cap the forks will have some adjustment. Some forks can only be adjusted by changing the spring or Elastomer insert to a different rating.
These parts are usually quite cheap and can often be bought as a fork service kit.

With the full weight of the motorcycle resting on the jiffy or side stand when it is placed in the full forward and down position it will lock into this position when the bike is leaned over the left side. If it is not in the fully down and forward position and on a flat/level and firm/solid surface when it is leaned over to the left side the bike may fall down.



To Remove the Jiffy Stand

WWAARRNNININGG

Block and support the motorcycle under frame to be sure that it is securely upright and level and so that the jiffy stand can be moved throughout its full range of travel and so that it will not fall down or onto the repair person when the jiffy stand is removed.

Then move the jiffy stand to the retracted i.e. up position and remove the ****** nut and leg stop from the threaded end of the jiffy stand leg and then move the jiffy stand leg to the full forward position which is the full down position and grasp the end of the jiffy stand spring as close to the frame tube as possible, and then twist and turn the end with needle nose pliers to unhook it from the frame hole. THEN remove the jiffy stand leg from its bracket, inspect the entire jiffy stand assembly for worn or damaged parts and replace them as found necessary.



To Install the Jiffy Stand



First lubricate the jiffy stand leg with an Aerosol Anti-Seize Lubricant but only in the area of the jiffy stand leg part that rotates within the bracket. THEN insert the threaded end of the jiffy stand up through the bottom of the bracket and with the jiffy stand in the full forward position, partially install the spring end into the frame hole and with a rap to the spring with a rubber mallet fully seat it in its hole. Be careful to insert the end of the spring into the hole at the front of the jiffy stand leg piece in front of the jiffy stand leg piece weldment because if it is inserted from the rear of the hole in the leg piece the coil of the spring will interfere with and rub on the leg piece when the jiffy stand is used and if it is installed incorrectly over time it will wear and the motorcycle could fall over due to this wear. THEN while holding the jiffy stand leg at the full forward position, install the leg stop over the threaded end with the stamped side down, install the ****** nut and tighten it to 43-53 ft-lbs which is 58-72 Nm. NOW verify that the longer side of the leg stop faces towards the rear of the motorcycle, extend and retract the jiffy stand leg several times to verify that it operates properly, freely moving to both the full up and the full down positions with no spring or other interference or contact and verify that the rubber stop is correctly in place on the jiffy stand prong because without the rubber stop correctly in place the stand will make improper contact with the lower frame tube when the jiffy stand is retracted and will then likely chip and/or nick the powder coat. AND, of course if the rubber stop is deteriorated or missing. Replace it with a new one. FINALLY carefully remove the support blocking from beneath the motorcycle frame and let the motorcycle rest on the fully extended jiffy stand leg.

-Providing that the image shown is the tripod you own..., the top leg lock levers on each leg is designed to lock the spreader angle of each leg.
-If this is not holding the leg at the correct angle...., either you are putting more weight on it than it was designed to hold..., or the 'cam' on the various locks has worn.
-A 'stop gap' fix for this problem is to insert a very thin wedge between the lever & the leg tube..., thus providing a greater amount of pressure on the tube, (this would need to be done every time the tripod is set up).
-Replacement parts are not available for this tripod & they were not designed to be user serviceable ...., sorry!!!
Peter

Fitness Quest Customer Support: 800-321-9236


http://www.bestdirect.tv/downloads/AB2.pdf

Good luck.

With the full weight of the motorcycle resting on the jiffy or side stand when it is placed in the full forward and down position it will lock into this position when the bike is leaned over the left side. If it is not in the fully down and forward position and on a flat/level and firm/solid surface when it is leaned over to the left side the bike may fall down.

To Remove the Jiffy Stand
WWAARRNNININGG
Block and support the motorcycle under frame to be sure that it is securely upright and level and so that the jiffy stand can be moved throughout its full range of travel and so that it will not fall down or onto the repair person when the jiffy stand is removed.
Then move the jiffy stand to the retracted i.e. up position and remove the flange nut and leg stop from the threaded end of the jiffy stand leg and then move the jiffy stand leg to the full forward position which is the full down position and grasp the end of the jiffy stand spring as close to the frame tube as possible, and then twist and turn the end with needle nose pliers to unhook it from the frame hole. THEN remove the jiffy stand leg from its bracket, inspect the entire jiffy stand assembly for worn or damaged parts and replace them as found necessary.

To Install the Jiffy Stand

First lubricate the jiffy stand leg with an Aerosol Anti-Seize Lubricant but only in the area of the jiffy stand leg part that rotates within the bracket. THEN insert the threaded end of the jiffy stand up through the bottom of the bracket and with the jiffy stand in the full forward position, partially install the spring end into the frame hole and with a rap to the spring with a rubber mallet fully seat it in its hole. Be careful to insert the end of the spring into the hole at the front of the jiffy stand leg piece in front of the jiffy stand leg piece weldment because if it is inserted from the rear of the hole in the leg piece the coil of the spring will interfere with and rub on the leg piece when the jiffy stand is used and if it is installed incorrectly over time it will wear and the motorcycle could fall over due to this wear. THEN while holding the jiffy stand leg at the full forward position, install the leg stop over the threaded end with the stamped side down, install the flange nut and tighten it to 43-53 ft-lbs which is 58-72 Nm. NOW verify that the longer side of the leg stop faces towards the rear of the motorcycle, extend and retract the jiffy stand leg several times to verify that it operates properly, freely moving to both the full up and the full down positions with no spring or other interference or contact and verify that the rubber stop is correctly in place on the jiffy stand prong because without the rubber stop correctly in place the stand will make improper contact with the lower frame tube when the jiffy stand is retracted and will then likely chip and/or nick the powder coat. AND, of course if the rubber stop is deteriorated or missing. Replace it with a new one. FINALLY carefully remove the support blocking from beneath the motorcycle frame and let the motorcycle rest on the fully extended jiffy stand leg.
CAUTION

Remove the computer support brackets by unscrewing the bolts holding it to the bike frame. Get 3-4 inch long bolts (to replace the computer support bracket bolts) and nuts that will tighten on the other end and place the book rack support brackets in front of the large inverted U part of the bike frame. Align the holes of the book rack support with the computer support leg holes. Insert and tighten the new longer bolts with the computer legs on one side of the U and the book support legs on the other side of the U. Once you tightne the nuts, your airdyne now has both the computer and book rack on it.

take out one of the legs and carry it to appliance part store

Please contact the reseller that sold you the computer

If the washer makes a noise from the front bottom center, when not agitating and not spinning, the motor/gearbox coupling has broken.
closed open It is designed to break, if the load gets enough that the motor may be damaged and is simple (enough) to replace

whirlpoool 285753, parts common to whirlpool roper ge kenmore and about a dozen other brands.
dissassembly instructions vary slightly between models but close enough, some have 2 clips some 3

• remove trims from ends of control panel
• remove screws under trims
• raise control panel and flip it over backwards
  (note: do not dislodge air tube from level selector)
• remove brass retainer clips at rear corners
  (note: position for reinstall)
• remove lid switch connector
• remove lid and body

the motor and gearbox are now exposed

• undo bolt(s) holding spring clips to pump,
• remove spring clips holding pump to motor(note position for reinstall)
• unto bolt(s) holding spring clips to motor
• remove spring clips holding motor to gearbox
  (note position for reinstall)
• there will be a plastic 3 legged 'spider' on the gearbox, and one on the motor, and a rubber ring with 6 holes that match the positions of the legs
• remove the ring and spiders
• take the ring and spiders to the local parts guy and get replacement,
  (Note the local parts guy will have the replacement, it is common to ge, whirlpool, roper, kenmore, new maytag, frigidaire and many others.)
• use a piece of dowel, to hammer the center of the spider to the input shaft of the gearbox and the motor shaft,
  (note dont hit the legs they break.)
  (note: new spiders have metal center hubs, this is a common failure and the replacements have been strengthened)
• turn gearbox shaft 1 leg up 2 legs down
• turn motor shaft 2 legs up 1 leg down
• insert new rubber ring over gearbox spider
• insert motor into rubber ring

reinstall springclips
pump
pump springclips
body
control panel
in reverse order to above

gearbox coupling ~$17.00
time ~25 minutes, but I do 3-4/month

usually it is a gearbox drive coupling, designed to break on exceptional loads
whirlpoool 285753, parts common to whirlpool roper ge kenmore and about a dozen other brands.
dissassembly instructions vary slightly between models

• remove trims from ends of control panel
• remove scres under trims
• raise control panel and flip it over backwards
  (note: do not dislodge air tube from level selector)
• remove brass retainer clips
  (note: position for reinstall)
• remove lid switch connector
• remove lid and body

the motor and gearbox are now exposed

• undo bolt(s) holding spring clips to pump,
• remove spring clips holding pump to motor(note position for reinstall)
• unto bolt(s) holding spring clips to motor
• remove spring clips holding motor to gearbox
  (note position for reinstall)
• there will be a plastic 3 legged 'spider' on the gearbox, and one on the motor, and a rubber ring with 6 holes that match the positions of the legs
• remove the ring and spiders
• take the ring and spiders to the local parts guy and get replacement,
  (Note the local parts guy will have the replacement, it is common to ge, whirlpool, roper, kenmore, new maytag, frigidaire and many others.)
• use a piece of dowel, to hammer the center of the spider to the input shaft of the gearbox and the motor shaft,
  (note dont hit the legs they break.)
  (note: new spiders have metal center hubs, this is a common failure and the replacements have been strengthened)
• turn gearbox shaft 1 leg up 2 legs down
• turn motor shaft 2 legs up 1 leg down
• insert new rubber ring over gearbox spider
• insert motor into rubber ring

reinstall springclips
pump
pump springclips
body
control panel
in reverse order to above

gearbox coupling ~$17.00
time ~25 minutes, but I do 3-4/month