I have a Polaroid Tla-01511b that goes blank after a few seconds from power up. I replaced all 1000uf and 470uf 25v 105 degree caps on inverter without luck. What else should I replace?

Most of the people thinks, and trusts, that a TV is working only with capacitors. Not such. Don't you see any other components on board, other than capacitors?
With your TV, a shut-down occurs after it has switched ON; means, there is something shorted component/s on the other board, than the power board. Actually, the power board trends to start, but a short circuit to any other board prevents it to stay ON, and this is a protection. The protection circuit built in; detects this short circuit, and shuts down the power supply, and thus preventing further damages.
It will be best for you to contact any service technician in this case, because, it sounds that you're not sound in electronics. OK.
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have you been tried to dis able the supply going to the inverter board for the back light which may have bad parts causing the supply to drop. by the way is there any blinking lights after it turns off? it will tell you the error either in the power supply, inverter board or at the main board.

hi, these mosfets are obsolete now, do you know a good equivalent for them?

Thanks

The problem could be in the inverter board located near the display.

Problem solved by changing 3 capacitors (C112, C113, C316).

Replace the 470uF 25V with a good quality low ESR type and the two 820uF 25V with 1000uF 25V low ESR types.

The 1000uF caps should be 10x20 in size, however I managed to get 13x20 caps in, but it was a bit tight.

I had the exact same problem. The screen went black and the green light flashed. I went ahead and took the monitor apart (scary) and took a look at the power supply circuitry. I saw 6 suspicious electrolytic caps on the board. Three 470uF 25V 105 degree C caps, two 1000uF 10V 105 degree C caps, and one 470uF 10V 105 degree cap. They all appeared to be slightly bulging and one even had a small hole in the top. I decided to replace all of them. The parts cost a little more than 5 bucks. I couldn't find a 470uF 10V cap at my local store so I bought a 16 V version instead, which is fine. Anyway, after replacing all 6 caps, the monitor works as good as new.

This is indicative of a bad main board that will need replaced. For this model make sure the repair person has the full product code (from the back of the unit) so that they can get the correct main board ordered (there are multiple versions depending on the product code). Hope this helps.

We had a power surge and my VL2018W LCD monitor stopped working... blank screen and flashing blue light.

I carefully opened up the back and found the power board (the one the AC plug goes into). There were about 5 electrolytic capacitors that were bulging (but not ruptured). There were 3 with the values listed by the original poster (470uF @ 25V) and 2 with 1000uF @ 10V.

I scrounged a couple of 2200uF@10V caps for the last two and bought 3 470uF @ 35V caps from Radio Shack (P/N 272-1030).

Luckily, the monitor came right back up and seems to be OK. It was out of warranty, so there wasn't a big risk.

Just increasing the working voltage won't do that much for you. If any caps are bad, just replacing them with the same value is good enough, but a higher working voltage won't hurt (usually means a bigger cap).

Good luck.

Rich

change your adc(analog to digital converter) board will help out

If your LG L204WT will not power up all of a sudden, or takes long to power up, or dies after a while and it has not been exposed to lightning damage then in all likelihood the Electrolytic capacitors in its power supply has started to fail.
Unplug the unit from mains. To open it up, remove the 4 philips screws at the back. Then starting at the bottom corner use a small flat screw driver to wedge the front bezel loose. After removing the bezel the rear casing will also come off the panel. The circuitry case is taped to the panel with silver tape. Loosen the tape, lift the power supply. Carefully unplug the two sets of backlight cables, and the front panel controls to completely remove the circuitry case. Now remove the 4 screws holding the power board and then replace the following capacitors:
You can order caps from most electronic component stores.
You will need to replace:
C105: Electrolytic Cap, 47uF 50V 105 degrees C
C106: Electrolytic Cap, 1uF 50V 105 degrees C
C202,C206: Electrolytic Cap, 680uF 25V 105 degrees C
C203,C204, C205: Electrolytic Cap, 1000uF 25V 105 degrees C
You can always use a HIGHER voltage and a slightly HIGHER uF, and HIGHER temp rating but never lower.
Make 100% sure to observe the polarity when replacing the caps. Electrolytic caps have a clear negative marking stripe on the side coinciding with a black mark on the board.