My Samsung set is about 4-5 years old, and if memory serves I have replaced the lamp twice now. Sunday morning (during Draft Day 2) I heard a quiet pop, followed by darkness, a couple power cycles, then all three LED's flashing in unison.
I busted out my trusty backup lamp, slid it in, and nothing. No different result. The TV would again give the starting chime, slowly, three times, then go to three flashing LED's. No sound of the color wheel spinning up, no fans in motion (except for maybe the tiny one that is encased behind the input panel). So I assumed my backup tube must have been bad as well, and ordered a new one. $184 later and it arrived today. I slid this one in, and again, the same result. Plug in the power and I get three starting chimes, followed by the three flashing LED's. I have her torn pretty well down now, and nothing appears or sounds fully out of place, except that the lamp never fires up at all.
Strangely, it's the exact same behavior as if there is no lamp installed at all, if you just slide out the lamp, replace the cover, and try and power it up. So my thought is that it may be the ballast, or that maybe I have defied the odds and received a bad tube. Is there any way to conclusively know that a halogen tube is bad? Or that the ballast needs replaced?
Thanks, all, in advance.
Unfortunately, I can not see what you have been told thus far, so I'll need to get a history from you please. The 3 flashing LEDs indicate a lamp problem (as you know). I think that you have thus far replaced the lamp, ballast and power supply modules correct? I hate to be the bearer of possibly bad news, but there are a number of interlocks built into the system that can cause this type of message to appear. With the set re-assembled, check ALL of the access doors and panels. If ANY of them is not 100% seated correctly, the lamp won't fire and the 3 LEDs will display. Also, you should have gotten the lamp hours reset procedure as well. Try resetting the lamp hours again (if you have tried already) and post whether or not there is a change in behavior. The incorrect setting of this parameter will also prevent the lamp from firing.
I look forward to more details around the history of this problem and hopefully we can solve it shortly.
Thanks,
Dan
Since there are a limited number of "codes" that are allowed and the number of safety interlocks present, the lamp code can sometimes mean just about anything. Typically, the lamp is the problem followed by the power supply. The color wheel may have shattered because it got too hot. Although there should be fan movement detection as well as air flow detection.
The color wheel part number is: BP96-00674A and is available from tritronicsinc.com for 113.69 plus shipping. These are in stock so the ship time should be short.
Pay special attention to all access doors etc. when you reassemble the set. Also, take the time to clean the fan and lubricate it if it does not spin freely. There may have been enough movement to "fool" the sensors but not enough to properly cool the system.
Keep us posted,
Dan
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Ok, when handling the halogen, you will have to pay close attention to not touch any part of the halogen bulb with your bare hands. this will cause the bulb to short when inserted due to oil transfer from your finger or hands. use a latex glove when handling a halogen tube.
As for the ballast. if you have used the correct procedure when handling the bulb and you have not touched the replacement bulb, this will confirm a faulty ballast.
Sure, you can test by Use the screwdriver and remove the protective cover that conceals the ballast.
Observe the ballast before proceeding. If oil is leaking from the ballast, stop here and remove the ballast. Leaking oil indicates that the ballast is damaged beyond any doubt as the internal seal has been ruptured by excessive heat.
Test the high voltage side for continuity between the wires going to the ballast tombstones. There will be either one or two wires going to each tombstone fixture. Regardless of the number of wires, the colors will be the following: Blue or yellow are the power wires and white is the common or neutral wire. this coudl differ in many modles.
Turn the Volt Ohmmeter to "ohms" and touch the ends of the two probes together. The meter should show continuity or a direct short. Touch the probes of the meter to one of the white wires and one of the colored, blue or yellow, or any wires that comes from the ballast. This should show a short or continuous circuit. If it does not, the ballast is bad and should be replaced.
Yes, that is correct. the wheel and fans should start up independently but, if the logic notices any abnormal or malfunctions in the bulb or ballast, it will shut down into protect mode.
Ok, if the second pin(positive) didn't register, this may be a PCB issue.
yes
if possible, run a check on that capacitor and let me know what the readings are.
OK, im sensing that the power supply board may have some issues. from further research i have done in the past hour, i have come to the conclusion that the wheel and fans should be still running even though the ballast or bulb is blown.(this model only). the power supply board may be damaged and is not able to provide poper current to the ballast board or vice versus.
Did you order a complete ballast kit or just the actual ballast?
OK, this is the correct part number for the power board----BP94-02222H.
this is actually the PCB---BP94-02222H
this is the actual Power board supply(main)---BP94-02215E
They both work together in unison. The main creates the raw current and regulates it. The PCB distributes it thoroughly.
the ballast and color wheel and fans etc..., connect to the PCB.
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Thanks for the reply. I've not handled the tube of the lamp for certain, and actually have two separate lamps that I've tried. I think the ballast sounds logical as well, but is there not somewhere I can stick a meter on the ballast (or somewhere on the lamp) to actually confirm before I drop another one hundred dollars on it?
Okay, before I dig too far into that testing, it sounds like form other posts that even if the ballast is bad, the color wheel and fans should still spin up. Doesn't the ballast come last in the operation (so that everything should start up independently from whether the lamp lights up or not). Does that make sense?
Okay, I ran through the ballast check as you described. I basically pulled it out of the plastic sleeve, no oil visible or obvious sign of damage along the board. I'm not sure what wires you were referring to, because once the ballast is unplugged from the TV there are no wires, only terminals. There is basically the 2-wire, red plug that goes to the lamp, the the white plastic terminal with two leads near the capacitor, and a tiny 4-wire terminal going to one of the daughter boards.
I tested from the 1st pin (negative I believe based on the PCB imprint), and it read 525 to BOTH sides of the red lamp connector. The 2nd pin gave no reading to either side of the red lamp connector. Is that indicative of anything at all?
FYI, I ordered the ballast because there was a shipping deadline, but I am not feeling confident that is going to be my problem.
Well, that's what the whole new ballast will replace, correct?
If you are talking about reading directly across the capacitor in ohms, 357.4. FYI, I am reading continuity across from the power pin on that main terminal, I can follow it from the pin to the capacitor, and to the transformer, it ends there. I'm not showing and continuity past that transformer to anywhere else on the board.
Just the actual ballast, Samsung P/N BP47-00027A.
Any idea how I test the power supply, then?
I can't seem to properly determine what the P/N for the board assembly is. The one that I pulled out is imprinted on the PCB with BP41-00131E, the stick on labels say BP94-02215E and it also says BP97-00920B. Then the Samsung parts site says BP94-02222H. I am suspecting that I will have no way to test this power supply assembly, so I may (I can't believe how much I've dumped into fixing this thing) have to just buy one and plug it in.
He basically didn't tell me anything that I couldn't find out by reading online. Over a week later and I have the same problem, despite replacing the parts that HE recommended I buy. Once I would try them and say they didn't work, the response would essentially be, 'oh yeah, I don't think that will work on that model'. Basically I have the same problem I had before, I am just $300 poorer.
I can't do the lamp hour reset, because I believe the set has to be turned on for that.
However yesterday I went ahead and broke the set down further and found the color wheel was completely shattered, so presumably that must be my issue. Will the set flash all 3 LED's if it finds the wheel is broken, or should I be looking for an additional problem as well?
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