Espresso machine has some very black hard sandpapery sediment in it which clogged it up and caused it to need repair. Was told that this was caused by the GE SmartWater reverse osmosis system that we have and that it voided the warranty. Could this filtration system have caused this?

Check the relief valve, maybe it's at closed position due to clogging

P1 error code is not enough water flow to operate the unit: increase water flow to unit.
http://waterheatertimer.org/pdf/Rheem-Error-code-P1.pdf
http://waterheatertimer.org/Troubleshoot-Rheem-Tankless-water-heater.html

Error codes are considered start-point for troubleshooting.
Page 18 of maintenance manual shows how to clean water filter monthly.
http://waterheatertimer.org/pdf/Tankless-maintenance.pdf

Other causes can include faulty sensor, clogged in-line filter, clogged water softener, sediment in pipe, sediment at elbow, bad check valve, water leak, etc.

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Can tankless electric water heater be repaired? Sure.
Is it worth the expense if problem is going to happen again? I can't answer, but can offer resources.

New tank-type electric water heater costs $207 and new tank-type gas costs $320 at local box store.
You can install new tank-type electric yourself in a couple hours. DIY repair on tankless is not easy since parts are not at local box store, and what part do you need, and tankless parts can easily cost more than new tank-type water heater.

Open following link for Bosch troubleshooting resources.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Troubleshoot-Bosch-Tankless-water-heater.html

GENERALLY, Tankless require .4 gpm (gallons per minute) water flow to activate heating cycle, and then require .25 gmp flow to keep heating cycle going.
For example .4 gallon per minute means faucet can fill 1 gallon container in 2-1/2 minutes
Some tankless units require more water flow, for example .75 gpm

Tankless water heaters have flow sensor that tells computer chip when enough water is flowing to activate heating cycle.
If the sensor is clogged, or if water filter inside tankless unit become clogged with dirt or sediment from hard water, then the unit does not signal enough water flow and will not activate.
Home filtration system and water softener can also slow the flow of water.
Low water pressure and crossover problem on single-handled faucet and crossover on recirculation system check valve and high thermostat setting can also cause heat cycle to not activate.

Tankless cannot be exposed to water with more than 11 grains hardness or parts inside tankless will coat with sediment and not work. Within 2 years the unit will not work, with diminished efficiency from the beginning.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Battelle_Final_Report.pdf

If water is hard, and you cannot soften the water, or if water is dirty and cannot be cleaned, then the best recommendation is to use tank-type heater instead of tankless.

All costs are energy. For average home: Tankless electric is NOT cheaper to operate than tank-type electric. Tankless gas saves $1-8 per month. However, cost of unit and installation, cost of potential repairs and cost of parts, difficulty of DIY repairs, required yearly-monthly maintenance, etc outweigh expected savings.
http://www.pmengineer.com/Articles/Cover_Story/8cf9e86f7c298010VgnVCM100000f932a8c0____

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Tankless questions are complicated because these units have many parts, and both internal and external issues can cause problems. Also problems can arise from combination of issues including maintenance, incoming water temperature, pressure, air quality, venting, water quality, water pressure, in addition to internal washers, gaskets, and parts functioning perfectly with each other over time.

Hot water only after a certain time of day indicates problem might be pressure related.
Which could be local water supply, or clog in line, or sediment on pressure sensor, failed pressure sensor, dirty in-line sediment filter, improper vent, or combination of things listed.

Rheem suggests calling service technician.
Service technicians train for years on one brand of tankless, and then see something new each day.
To understand why service technician is recommended, view number of UNanswered questions on following link showing one Rheem tankless model number.
http://www.fixya.com/tags/rtg_74pvn

I suggest avoiding tankless water heaters since all costs are energy.


Clogged pressure sensor after 2 years exposure to hard water. De-liming tankless will not prevent failure from hard water.

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The crackling noise is from build-up of sediment.
I forget exact reaction that causes the noise.
Water heaters exposed to hard water will create sediment inside the tank.

Following link shows sediment and remedies for gas and electric water heaters.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Clean-sediment-out-of-water-heater.html

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There are two water lines connected to water heater.
One is marked Hot and the other Cold.
The shut off valve is on the Cold line.

To eliminate sand and dirt from entering your water heater, the 'sediment' filter should be installed on Cold line.
Sand and dirt are sometimes called sediment, but this type of sediment is not the same as calcium carbonate sediment that accumulates inside a tank that receives hard water.

When you have hard water, then water heater makes calcium carbonate 'sediment' deposits that accumulate in bottom of tank. A 'sediment' filter will not prevent this problem.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Clean-sediment-out-of-water-heater.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-clean-sediment-out-of-electric-water-heater.html

If you have hard water, to prevent calcium carbonate from forming inside tank, you need a water softener.
Water softener will prevent calcium carbonate sediment forming inside tank.
However water softener will shorten life of water heater anode rod.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Replace-anode-rod.html

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http://www.waterheaterrescue.com/pages/WHRpages/English/Troubleshooting/Tanklets/backflushing.html
The link above gives a list of reasons for the decreased water pressure at your faucet.

As for draining the tank, it sounds like it's clogged with sediment.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Clean-sediment-out-of-water-heater.html

To open a clogged water heater:
Connect a washing-machine-hose to water heater drain valve.
Connect garden-hose to outdoor spigot, and to washing-machine-hose.
Turn on outdoor spigot for 10 seconds and it will open the clogged valve.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Water-heater-will-not-drain.html

http://waterheatertimer.org/Water-heater-recirculation-system.html

The circulation system should draw hot water directly from the water heater as shown on illustrations on link above.

The Grundfos pump works on a thermostat, and some work on a timer.
Can you hear the pump working?
There should be a humming sound.
Check the timer -or- thermostat setting.

It is possible the lines are clogged with sediment if you have hard water.

If I was going to fix the problem:
1) check thermostat or timer
2) listen for pump sound
3) check electricity going to unit
4) take apart the pipes and inspect for clogging
If there is a clog, I would flush the line or soak the part in CLR (calcium lime rust remover)

The circulation pumps are sealed and there is no way to take apart the motor, timer, or thermostat for repairs.

add a comment if you need more assistance.

'Rheem 81VP15S point of use' is a single-element, 15 gallon, 120V electric.
Other 'point-of-use' sizes range from 2-1/2 to 6 gallon to 20 gallon.

Electric water heaters have 2 parts: thermostat and element. One is not functioning correctly. Most likely the element caused by sediment build-up.

How to determine if tank has element or thermostat problem:
Do not turn off water going into tank. Put hose on drain valve. Open drain valve. Does water come out like open spigot? If water does not flow, then heater is likely clogged with sediment.

Solution 1: If water flows out like a spigot, the thermostat is probably bad. Read: How to replace thermostat.

Solution 2: Water does not flow, so element is surrounded by sediment build-up and cannot heat water. You need to clean out tank with shop vac, and put in new element ... plan full day and 3 trips to hardware store. Simply draining tank will not remove sediment. Sediment is chunky and will not come out voluntarily.

Buy element before starting:
-Turn off electricity
-Open cover on side of tank, remove insulation (these have to be put back for proper operation of thermostat)
-The are 2 electrical parts >>the element and the thermostat which is located above element
-Element wattage is printed on element and also shows on label on side of tank
-I think Rheem element is held in place with 4 hex bolts
-Take photo of element to hardware store so you have part on hand before removing old element
-If element is 1-1/2' diameter hex type, you need inexpensive element wrench from hardware store + the element

Drain tank and clean sediment:
-Read: To open drain on water heater so water comes out
-Read: How to clean sediment out of water heater

With Rheem you have to back to the installer.Most of the heater have ten year warrany.