If the GFCI is tripping, the reset button will not do anything. If it was fine before the electricity shut off, it is possible that while the pump was not running, water got into the inside of the pack, and that is what is causing the GFCI to trip. An electrical surge may have damaged the GFCI, itself. Those are the two things that might be related to the power going out.
The most common cause for tripping GFCI's are a heater that has a ground fault. A distant second is a bad GFCI. If it starts to run, then quickly trips, it is almost certainly the heater.
SOURCE: Spa water drains to pool
Here is a link to the Aqualink website so you can download a trouble shooting guide.
SOURCE: Hayward H300 Spa Heater will not fire up
try to replace the thermo sensor it is located on the left side of tghe unit and has 3 wires running to it.
SOURCE: Sta Rite SR400 NG heater with code r=5
You can find an Owner's Manual online at the following site:
http://www.inyopools.com/owners_manual/sta-rite_heaters_max-e-therm.pdf
IF you have tried to restart the heater and received the same outcome, the r5, or S, is a badk control board. Sorry about that one!
What you may want to try is resetting the heater. You will need to put the SunTouch in the maintenance mode. Then turn off the heater, turn off the Circuit Breaker for the heater, wait about 15 to 20 minutes, then reverse the order. Circuit breaker, then heater, then try and start the heater without the SunTouch first. If it works, then try with the SunTouch.
SOURCE: layz spa pump
same problem I had so I seperated the globe by taking out the 5 screws around the middle then removed the nut from the hole the filter sits on its a strange fitting and must have a special key but I improvised by tapping it anticlockwise using a screwdriver and rubber mallet, once open identify the heater unit (it has a single wire going into it and is fastened to a length of metal pipe) and remove it by loosening the clamps at either side and pull the heater free, once free dismantle the plastic casing on the top of the heater inside you will see the live, neutral and earth wires, you can see the live (brown) wire goes to the water flow switch then the temp switch then the heater all I did was bypass the water flow switch by disconnecting the short wire from it going to the heat sensor and replacing it with the brown wire coming from the mains and it works fine now
SOURCE: I have Jandy RS4 system with 4-button poolside
Pull the cover off the control panel. You will probably find a button which would be accessible from outside the panel with a paper clip or pencil but is unlabeled. On the board itself by the button, in small letters it should say "reset". Push the button and see what happens.
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