THE POWER WENT OUT THE OVEN IN MY GAS RANGE DOESN'T WORK NOW. I CAN LITE THE TOP BURNERS BUT THERE IS AN ELECTRIC START ON MY FRIGIDARE RANGE AND IT WONT START. I AM GETTING SOME F CODE... IS THERE A RESET BUTTON ON THE BACK OF THE OVEN?

When the range top burners and the oven are both not lighting, I recommend you check if the manual shut-off valve to the range has been turned off. With most of my gas ranges, you have to remove the drawer to reach the shut-off valve. (so If you have propane, make sure that your tank isn't low.

Make sure that your home is well ventilated; open the windows and check the range in a while. I live in an area where we had to add a whole house ventilator. We had days where the house would seem stuffy and none of the burners would light. (Appliances with pilot lights went out.) This was due to excess carbon dioxide shifting from nearby coal and natural gas deposits.

It is possible for the igniters to fail if there is power to the range, but usually not the oven, the broiler and all of the top burners at once. You can test the top burners carefully with a long handled butane lighter or a long match. Turn on the hood fan and set a burner to the Lite position. Carefully, light the lighter near the burner or bring the lit match to the burner. If the gas is flowing properly and there is sufficient oxygen, it should light. Then remove the lighter or match and put it out. Then adjust the burner temperature.
The manual for the ARGS7650SS is available from Amana. The direct link is here: http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/31810401.PDF . Many newer Amana product manuals are available here: http://shop.amana.com/product_literature/search.jsp .

I hope this helps.

Cindy Wells
(note: you should also make sure that the regulator cap is correctly set for your type of gas (LP or NG). The gas flow rates are different enough to make the regulator fail. Most ranges are shipped for with the cap set for NG. Turn off the gas and unplug the electrical cord before working on the regulator cap. The burner orifices need to be changed as well as some other adjustments to convert from NG to LP. See pages 9-11 of the manual for details.)

The clicking sound is from the ignition, but you do not have gas at the burner, I think it could be thermocouple.

Electric gas igniters sometimes get stuck in one position causing a clicking sound. The clicking sound that you hear is the electric arc that is pulsing from the igniter conductor (wire) to ground (the gas burner). It receives power from the electrical outlet that the stove is plugged into.
Residue from food and sometimes cleaning products may be preventing the igniter from producing a spark (Arc) to the base of the burner. This is a common problem that occurs when the stove has been cleaned or food is allowed to build up. Make sure that the igniter and the burner base are clean and dry. This will help with proper operation. Oven cleaner and a small tooth brush may be used to accomplish this. Another problem with ignition may occur if you have too little (touching) or too much space between the igniter and the base of the burner; it will prevent the burner from igniting. You should only have a little more space than the thickness of a nickel between the burner base and the igniter. A good "blue" arc from the igniter to the burner base is optimal. If this doesn’t work, you may need to replace the electric igniter module. Good luck.

Electric gas igniters sometimes get stuck in one position causing a clicking sound. The clicking sound that you hear is the electric arc that is pulsing from the igniter conductor (wire) to ground (the gas burner). It receives power from the electrical outlet that the stove is plugged into.
Residue from food and sometimes cleaning products may be preventing the igniter from producing a spark (Arc) to the base of the burner. This is a common problem that occurs when the stove has been cleaned or food is allowed to build up. Make sure that the igniter and the burner base are clean and dry. This will help with proper operation. Oven cleaner and a small tooth brush may be used to accomplish this. Another problem with ignition may occur if you have too little (touching) or too much space between the igniter and the base of the burner; it will prevent the burner from igniting. You should only have a little more space than the thickness of a nickel between the burner base and the igniter. A good “blue” arc from the igniter to the burner base is optimal. If this doesn’t work, you may need to replace the electric igniter module. Good luck.

Okay,
1, check your power, locate your breaker for the range. turn the breaker off and turn it back on.
Your Range it is electronic control on the Oven but not the Stove Top heating elements.
After you reset the breaker and it still not work.
Please let me know more about the unit.
When you purchase.
How/when it happen.
What is the indicator showing.

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This is normal and designed to do so.

It sounds like you only have one side of the 220v current coming into the range. I suggest checking the outlet feeding the range for proper power. The problem could actually be in your circuit breaker, only sending power via one of the conductors.

That's common for the burners to work since they & ignightors have nothing to do with the control board. The oven light is also run by the control board. Before replacing the control board, make sure you have both phases of the power coming in. One 1/2 of the 220 operates the burners and the other phase is the power to the controller. The controller then put both phases on the heating elements. There should be a tech sheet and schematic on the back of the stove or under the hood where the controller is. Good luck

do you hear any clicking when you try to start the oven portion of the range? if not lets try this, open the lower drawer so you can see the burner bar and mechanism for lighting the bake bar. as your watching the mechanism turn on the oven (nothing should happen as per your issue) while oven is on try lighting one of the top burners, any one will do wanna check if that lites the spark and in turn lites the oven pilot.if that does infact work you have a bad spark switch for the oven control

I have a frigeidaire classic gas range 12 years old worked fine until a pot of water leaked over the stove top burners. now the door locked lite is on and the door lock is activated , the oven door is open and won't close. The oven also does not work now, although the stove top burners work fine.
Can you help ? Thanks, Tom