Tiller starts easily, but will run only at full or near throttle (fast). Even at full throttle, there is a mild but noticable 'miss' or 'cut out', which causes the governer to give it a boost, this happens avery few seconds. If throttle is pulled down, it will get rougher until it dies, will not run at all on 'slow'. This is with it just sitting and running. If I try to till, it does it worse, the tines will slow down and engine labor, till the governer gives it another boost at which the tiller jumps out of the ground and tries to run away. The carbeurator is not the kind with a bowl, which I'd know how to take off to clean out any blockage. I'm not an experienced mechanic, just a fairly handy lady gardener...any help appreciated before I have to take this thing to a repair shop.
SOURCE: Tiller starts easily but cuts out when engaging tines - 3.75 HP
First, check the fuel lines for cracks/breaks.
If they are o.k.,
then you will need to disassemble the carburetor and spray with carb.
cleaner. Make sure the small screen in the carb. is free of debris. Use
a Den Tek Brush, (http://www.drugstore.com/products/prod.asp?pid=165357&catid=1152), to clean the small portals in carb. If the carb. has a foat, then you can use the Den tek Brush on the jet as well. Reassemble and start.
(NOTE: If the cleaning doesn't work, then buy a carb. kit and replace all appropriate parts.)
If you need further assistance, just let me know.
Jim
SOURCE: I have an older Troy-Bilt Pony Garden Tiller witha
From what I read you need a new rewind clutch and the spring and cord go into the housing. Briggs is easy to fix. contact me at [email protected] and I can send you what you need or you can send it to me and I will repair it very cheap!! Parts are available at almost any small engine parts place.
SOURCE: Where is the model number on my troybilt rear tine tiller?
If it's as old as mine (circa 1976), it's stamped on the casting right below the T-handle that allows the handle bars to pivot (also the gear case fill cap)
SOURCE: troy bilt pony tiller will only work in reverse
These kinds of problems almost always require opening and inspecting the gearbox. Hopefully if you can do this is will be something simple you can repair. Good luck.
SOURCE: I recently bought a second hand pony garden tiller
Hi and welcome to FixYa. I am Kelly. You did not mention engine size but most of the "Pony" Tillers had a 250 cc Briggs and Stratton engine.
The owners manual is here::
http://www.troybilt.com/wcsstore/TroyBiltUS-CAS/Attachment/ownersManuals/tillers/769-03556.pdf
If you download the manual on page 23 figure 7-6 you will see the WHITE oil cap on the right side of the engine just forward of the belt. Unscrew that by placing a screwdriver across the 2 raised tabs IF you can not get it loose with your fingers. There is a dip stick with oil level indicators on it inside the engine.
Just forward of the dip stick in figure 7 - 6 there is a rectangular / 4 sided plug. That is the oil drain port. Changing the oil is a matter of removing the plug and waiting until all the oil had drained and then reinstalling the plug.
Oil is added via the dip stick port. (White 2 tab cap behind the oil drain plug near the belt area)
Since I do not have your engine number I could not get your engine manual for you. The engine number is stamped on the Air Shroud of hte engine and will be in 3 parts. I believe this is your engine number but not 100 % sure: 150212-2560-B8
The parts and owners manual are on this page. ( you will need to downloand each one)
http://www.briggsandstratton.com/engines/support/operators-manuals.aspx?NTT=150212-2560-B8
Engine: http://www.briggsandstratton.com/document/index.aspx?doc=277040WST_E_LO.pdf
Engine parts:
http://www.briggsandstratton.com/document/index.aspx?doc=MS3796_E_LO.pdf
Thanks for Choosing FixYa,
Kelly
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Pony will run kinda smooth with about half choke but not well at all with choke off.
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