I have a RS265 SERIES side by side and its about 2or 3 years old. Recently it stopped keeping the fridge portion cold and the freezer would not hold a freeze. There was a code given to me (22 E), bought a new condenser fan and changed it out and it did not resolve the issue. Is there a sensor or is it time to replace either the motherboard or the entire refrigerator? Please don't just tell me to get it serviced, I am able to do it myself.

SOURCE: loud noise from the freezer side

The problem is a buildup of ice on the plastic housing (the curved plastic bit) in the back of the freezer under the fixed shelf where the icetub goes. The fan behind this plastic housing is hitting the ice when the defrost comes on.

Unplug the fridge, unpack the freezer, remove the four screws in the back, take off the sheetmetal backing and let the fridge thaw. You can remove the plastic piece after a while and get the ice off (be careful not to remove the styrofoam insulation by going too quickly).

Reassemble and you're back in business, for a few months. I'm never buying Samsung again myself.

SOURCE: SENSOR PROBLEM ON SAMASUNG SRS580DW (side by side fridge)

go ahead and take and hold in the top two button until the unit blinks and resets the controller. Please don't rate this unitl the problem is solved because i can't come back and answer any more questions then. Also if this fix's please rate this solution please. Thanks for usin FixYa

SOURCE: fridge condensation - freezer thawing

OK now I'm wondering are theses numbers your getting 4 -9 the actual temps of the refrigerator and the freezer? and do they feel this cold and correct to you? I know the refrigerator side shouldn't be below 34 or so and definitely not below 32. If this is correct and the numbers are not settings but temps. (Now if you have a touch pad its electronic. If it has knobs it has a separate defrost and thermostat and are electro-mechanical)
If electronic Your control board and possibly defrost control are out.
It would more likely be the sensors going to the board(s) It will both sensors have the possibility of causing your problem. 1 will control the run of the compressor (and this one could and probably is connected to the inside coil) and 1 will control the air damper tween the refdg and freezer compartments, and may turn on the inside fan operation too.

(this would be my first suspect if these are degrees numbers). Look at the thermostat control see if it is attached to the indoor coil (usually the tube leavign the indoor section. If its not attached its not sensing the coil temp and when goes into defrost wala its not senmsing temps like its designed to do. Look for a broken clip or possible a plastic wire tie that holds this sensor in place.

Please get back to me with what you see - find on this look up.

SOURCE: noise (more detail)

I think I answered this in an earlier post.

The noise is the fan banging against the motor housing. It's not a defective motor, it's a poorly designed motor.

The solution is to shim the motor mount so it is slightly out of level which will keep the fan from bouncing off the motor housing.

The reason Samsung won't service is they don't understand the problem. I've seen this a half-dozen times.

Trust me -- SHIM THE MOTOR MOUNT!

SOURCE: samsung RB215BSSB refrigerator freezes up

I had a similar problem where my evaporator coil was freezing into a block of ice, which caused my fridge to warm up due to a lack of air flow. I fixed this by doing a few things. I replaced the circuit board ($100) which was easy to do. Unfortunately, this didn't fix my problem so I took the inner fridge cover off to view the evaporator/heater coil assembly. I checked my thermo fuse and found it to be open (failed). I ordered the thermo fuse and the thermistor and replaced them both. I then plugged the fridge back up and put a regular thermometer inside the fridge to get an accurate reading of inside temp. A few days now and everything looks good. The board, fuse, and thermistor were all pretty easy to replace.