Stihl parts manual

To replace the chain oiler line on a Stihl 036 chainsaw, you will need to follow these steps:

1. Disconnect the spark plug wire to prevent the chainsaw from starting accidentally.
2. Drain the old chain oil from the oil tank.
3. Remove the old chain oiler line from the chainsaw.
4. Clean any debris or blockages from the oiler hole.
5. Cut a length of new chain oiler line to the appropriate size. The line should be long enough to reach from the oil tank to the oiler hole on the bar.
6. Attach one end of the new chain oiler line to the oil tank and the other end to the oiler hole on the bar.
7. Secure the line in place with the appropriate fittings and clamp.
8. Fill the oil tank with the recommended type and amount of chain oil.
9. Reconnect the spark plug wire and test the chain oiler to ensure it is functioning properly.

It is important to use the correct type and amount of chain oil to ensure the chainsaw operates properly and to extend the life of the chain and bar. If you are not comfortable performing this repair yourself, it is recommended to have a professional chainsaw repair technician handle the repairs for you.
Regenerate response

You will need to remove the bar cover, bar and chain. Next remove the clip that holds the clutch drum onto the shaft, be careful this clip does not go flying. Remove the clutch drum and clutch drum bearing (brake must be off) Under this you will see the clutch. To get it off you must remove the spark plug, and insert about 6-8 feet of recoil sized rope (to stop the piston from moving) Now go ahead and use a half inch ratchet or breaker to unscrew the clutch itself. It is a reverse thread so turn it to the right to remove it. Once that is off you will see a large washer that can be lifted off. Under that you will see the oil pump drive gear with an arm. This can just be lifted off. Now you will see your oil pump and a hose coming to it, and one going from the top of it to the bar area. Most likely the top one has a hole in it and will need to be replaced. Your oil pump hose kit is part number 1124(NNN) NNN-NNNNand should cost you about $5

Part of the routine service while sharpening the chain and adjusting the chain tension is to remove the guide bar to clean the slot and to clean the side of the saw case of any and all impacted crud. This impacted crud many times inhibits the oil flow to the bar causing it to appear as though the oiler is not oiling. Make sure you clean the discharge port of the oil pump...it will be the opening that aligns with a slot in the bar to transfer the oil to the chain.

After cleaning and reassembling, start the saw and rev it up for 2 to 3 seconds and observe the bar tip as it is aimed against a clean piece of cardboard. If the oiler is working, within this time frame, a thin film of oil will appear as it is slung off the bar tip.

run it with the bar off and see if it pumps oil. I have drained oil tank and cleaned with gas(no run) then replaced with lite oil , run no chain and got them going ,or then gingerly run wire into oil hole and got them going, otherwise its tear apart time. If oil does come out, then clean your bar and your cover and use bar chain oil.

from stihl documentation it does not seem that you can replace it. I have appended the manual for you and an article dealing with chain oil delivery system for 0009
Stihl Chain Oiler Trouble
How to Unstop the Oiler on Stihl Chainsaw
http://www.stihlusa.com/stihl_ownersmanuals/009_manual.pdf

I'm almost sure you have to remove the oil tank and then the oiler

Wow, an 031 AV and its still running ?? You really got the life out of that one !!! The oiler is mounted on the outside of the block around the crankshaft behind the sprocket. Bar and chain, sprocket and another side cover must come off first. Make sure you blow everything clean with a air compressor during disassembly, because its gonna be gnarly under there.

There MAY be two different types available: one with adjustable oil flow and one without. I would NEVER go with one that is NON-adjustable. Once done, pre-lube your bar and chain with oil prior to starting the saw. This prevents a few hundred revolutions of the chain without lubrication before the new pump gets oil through the delivery port.

Closely monitor the oil tank during the first tank of fuel going through the saw and adjust the oiler toward the minus (-) just a tad bit if the oil tank runs dry BEFORE the gas tank.

Hello Tom;
This is an OM for a Stihl 028. I did not see an oiler adjustment. It does have the "Master Control Lever" and from what little I know of Stihl this is a source of headaches if not used properly. If you are not familiar with it suggest you read everything the manual has to say about it.
http://www.stihlusa.com/stihl_ownersmanuals/STIHL028_with_safety_manual.pdf

Oil System Plugged:

1. Remove the clutch cover, bar, and chain, clean the bar groove, any holes and passages on the rear of the bar (both sides, consider rotating the bar), if equipped with a sprocket nose ensure it rotates easily at least one complete revolution. Clean the saw oiler hole and channel. Insert a blunted, hooked piece of wire through the oil filler hole and pull the hose in the oil tank out. Pay attention to the screen or filter on the free end (clean or replace, difficult to determine serviceability). Start the saw and see if it oils when revved up (oozes down side of saw). If yes reassemble your saw. If no, continue with 2.
2. Work your way through the linkage (use IPL to identify components and locations) cleaning and replacing any defective parts as you go. Carefully check the hoses for cracks especially at bends and connections. If equipped with an oil pump it is usually behind the clutch (clutch is a left handed thread). Please make extensive notes & some digital pictures will help during reassembly.

If it does not oil on completion of 1 it is most likely a bad oiler or worm gear (see IPL). I has a gear driven oil pump but because it is Stihl and they claim proprietatry right you cannot find an IPL on line. You must also find a Stihl dealer for new OE parts.

ArboristSite Chainsaw thread (free to join)
http://www.arboristsite.com/forumdisplay.php?f=9
This thread is discussing an oiler falfunction on a similar saw, I think Fish is a Stihl dealer, is very helpful and his advice is proven.
http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=121837&highlight=028+oiler
You can get IPLs and if the chainsaw Gods smile a shop manual or two here (please do a search and PM someone that has replyed to a similar request):

ArboristSite Beg for manuals thread (free to join)
http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=72322

If you have more questions or need additional help please reply below and I will get back to you. Thank you for using FixYa and Good Luck. HTH
Lou

Stihl considers all IPLs, Shop Manuals and OM parts proprietary. When they discover an on-line source for any of these they force it be removed.

They cannot stop individual owners from sharing expertise and technical publications. This is an international collection of good people that are obsessed with all chainsaw (this obsession is HIGHLY contagious).
ArboristSite Chainsaw thread (free to join)
http://www.arboristsite.com/f orumdisplay.php?f=9


This thread is discussing an oiler problem on a Stihl 034.
http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=126068&highlight=stihl+034

People share publications here (many request for and replies to 034 IPLs):
ArboristSite Beg for manuals thread (free to join)
http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=72322

I will provide this before you go (if oil pump or gear failure they are behind the clutch), I think it has an inboard clutch removal begins as follows:
R² Drive Link Inboard Clutch by Drivelink.blogspot.com
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YUbSIHMSSP8
The C-clips tend to fly when being removed. Please wear eye protection and exercise care.

Any remaining pieces can be removed using this as a guide:
R² Drive Link Outboard Clutch by Drivelink.blogspot.com
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cdqkIuVNUQc

1. Check the IPL for your saw to see if any special tools are needed. Poulan (Craftsman, Jonsered, Husky) clutch removal tool part number 530031112 if needed, is under $5 from many sources (look at the visible area between the weights if 2 small round sockets are visible you need the tool).
2. There are metal piston stops available, when square (almost never) with the piston top these work well, if not square they have been known to punch through the piston. I suggest a length of nylon rope (nothing left behind) be used instead of the piston stop (retain 6" ± so you can remove it). Make sure the piston is near the top of the cylinder before feeding the cord or it can fall through the exhaust port and damage the piston as it rises.
3. Everyone I have ever removed had a left handed thread (tighten it to loosen it).

It is not as difficult as it appears. Good Luck. HTH
Lou

Stihl Manuals
http://www.stihlusa.com/information/info_product2.html
For an IPL you must contact them.
HTH
Lou