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The Thermocouple is in the flame of the pilot light and is connected to the main burner valve. It is a gas appliance and should only be worked on by a registered, gas certified technician. Yes, the oven has to come out unless there is a removeable panel at the front bottom edge.
Any gas cooker has a thermocouple that keeps the gas valve open; if the thermocouple no longer generates current (which feeds the coil of an electromagnet) then the gas valve closes and the flame will go out. So check thermocouple. In normal conditions the voltage generate by the thermocouple is low but the current is high.
There can be a number of things causing that... Is the oven vented? If so then is there a good cap on the pipe?? is the vent pipe high enough above the roof line? Is there a draft diverter at the back of the oven where the pipe hooks on? A direct connection can cause this... Is there a vent hood in the room that the oven is in??? Is there enough makeup air, or is the vent blower pulling air back down the stack? Is the main burners "pulling" the pilot flame away from the thermocouple? Is the "hood" on the pilot flame adjusted properly to keep the flame on the thermocouple? Is the thermocouple positioned in the flame properly? Is the thermocouple correctly tighten into the gas valve?
These questions are what I would be looking for if I was troubleshooting that appliance...
Several things to check. First be sure the pilot light flame is directly striking the thermocouple. It is a pencil sized rod that is next to the pilot light. Sometimes people reduce the size of the pilot flame to save gas. You may need to increase the pilot flame. Follow the small gas line from the pilot flame back to the gas valve. There is a screw where the small pilot gas line goes into the valve. Remove the screw and then deep in the hole is a tiny screw that can only be reached by a tiny flat blade screw driver. Turn the screw counter clockwise to increase the pilot flame. The thermocouple needs to be red hot to work properly. The second item to check is to see if there are any breezes that occasionally blow through the kitchen. Sometimes the hood fan will draw air under the ovens and actually blow the pilot flame out. Same fix, increase the flame. You may also experience low gas pressure to the appliance during heavy usage. You would need a manometer gauge to check for proper gas pressure. In short, if the oven goes out during your busiest time when everything gas powered is on, the oven may be starved for gas.
remove rear panels (3; 1 white, 2 galvanised).
look under rear folded edge of hob. remove 2 screws in corners. dont lose 2 top hat rubber washers. from rear of cooker, lift hob slightly and push forward 1/2". lift hob off. dont over tighten new thermocouple union on back of valve (note how tight old one was)
Hi If it won’t fire then it is possible that the oven control is not sending gas for the pilot light. The pilot light works but no main burner ignition - possible pilot assembly is dirty and the pilot flame is too small, safety valve and thermocouple is faulty, the bulb from the safety valve is out of position and the pilot flame is not touching the thermocouple bulb. Some ranges use a standing pilot light ( small flame is on all the time ) while others use an spark ignition to light the pilot light flame and the pilot light flame heats up the thermocouple bulb to allow the main gas to flow through the oven burner. The flame needs to heat the bulb up enough to tell it to open the gas valve. Several things can go wrong here that keep this from happening: The pilot flame may not be hot enough, usually because the flame is yellow instead of pure blue or is too small. The cause for this is usually a dirty pilot assembly. The pilot assembly would either need to be cleaned or replaced. The thermocouple bulb may not be positioned properly in the flame. You can't heat the bulb properly if it's not in the pilot flame! The thermocouple bulb needs to be in the upper third of a pure blue pilot flame--that's the hottest part of the flame. The thermocouple itself may be burned out. It happens. It's an internal part of the gas valve so, no, you can't just change the thermocouple bulb separate from the gas valve. But when you turn on the oven or the thermostat calls for heat, the pilot flame gets bigger and jumps down so it can heat up the thermocouple bulb. This extra gas to increase the pilot flame size comes from the thermostat. If the pilot flame jumps upwards or just gets bigger, but doesn't shoot down, then you need to replace the pilot assembly. If the pilot flame size does not increase or jump down when turning on the oven thermostat, then the problem is the thermostat not sending enough gas to the pilot assembly. It's also possible that the pilot gas supply tube has a hole in it somewhere. One final point on the spark-assisted pilot ignition systems. The spark comes from the spark module--the same module that sends spark to your surface burners to light them up. If you're not getting a spark when you turn the oven on, then there are several possibilities: There could be a problem with the switch in the thermostat. You can confirm this by doing a simple continuity test of the thermostat contacts. If you don't read zero ohms when you turn the switch on, replace the thermostat. The spark module could be bad. You'll need to measure the voltage at the oven terminals of the spark module when you turn on the oven. If you get 120v but no spark, it's probably a bad spark module. Replace it. Could be a bad spark wire or broken electrode. Please do rate the solution and revert for further assistance. Thanks Rylee
Possible a bad thermocouple, could also be bad gas pressure to the unit, my bet would be a thermocouple. You should be able to replace this on your own, if you see where the pilot flame is, you will see the thermocouple that sticks into the flame, it may have fallen off or may need replacing, it should lead back to the gas valve and should be replaceable. Grainger normally stock a lot of thermocouples and could even cross reference one for you.
Your thermocouple needs replacement. Its the thin tube next to the pilot, it runs alway back to the gas control valve. When it fails the gas valve won't allow the gas to flow. Turn the gass off before begining repairs, and NO OPEN FLAMES OR SMOKING!
Hello. It sounds like, from what you said, you have a new thermocouple. The device it is attached to, the pilot safety, could have a problem internally that allows gas to the pilot, but does not open the main part of the valve, or electrically has failed on the main coil. If you have a thermostat with wires on it, you can jumper the wires, to bypass it, temporarily please, if it comes on, you need a thermostat, if not, it is the valve most likely.
Relighting Your Furnace's Pilot Light
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Turn off the gas at the main valve at your utility box
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Wait five to ten minutes for gas fumes to waft away
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Get a long match—yes, a fireplace match, not a standard match
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Set the gas valve on your furnace to "pilot"
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Press the red button as you hold the match to the pilot valve
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Keep pressing the red button for 30-60 seconds so the pilot can heat the
thermocouple. Release the button and see if the pilot remains lit
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If pilot goes out, wait five to ten minutes and repeat the process
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Once the pilot stays lit, turn the main gas valve back on
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If the pilot light continues to go out, call a technician, who may need
to adjust or replace your thermocouple or adjust your pilot
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