I moved my Cabrio electric dryer to another room. A new outlet was installed in the new room. When first plugged in, the dryer runs and tumbles but will not generate heat. Suggestions?

If it is an electric heat dryer, a blown thermal fuse will stop it from operating at all. The door switch can keep a dryer from tumbling... but a common problem on these new computer controlled heaps of junk is a bad solder joint on the back of the computer board.

check the power supply to the unit. if no voltage is found on the unit . check the wall outlet.no power at the wall socket ?? check the breaker box for tripped breakers if breaker to the wall outlet is off but good ,leave as is . check for grounds at the unit . if no grounds are present , turn on breaker . if it breaks with the dryer still not plugged in , search for any appliances connected on that line and unplug all. plug in the dryer then start it .if breaker opens , something is wrong with the dryer. call a qualified technician . thanks .

First off - make sure the dryer is unplugged from the electrical outlet before proceeding. There is enough current available through that plug that you can injure yourself badly, or kill yourself. No short cuts on this!

It may cause seasickness, but this video covers getting the back off. At that point, the dryer looks pretty much like ones that are 30 years old (like mine). Whirlpool cabrio dryer repair If you look at around 1:44 or 1:45 (having turned head or monitor to make picture with ceiling 'up', you'll see a flat silver metal assembly at lower right. That's the heater assembly.

Actually, this step by step has much better still pictures:
Whirlpool Cabrio Dryer Not Heating . the heater unit is long silver assembly on right. Don't know if you have a gas or electric. If it's gas, I'm going to recuse myself, since my experience only extends to electric. it'll have two spade clip connections at one end that feed through the heating element. You' unclip them. Then you remove the screws holding the unit in. Mine have some ones you may want a narrow shaft, magnetic head driver for - lots of small hex-head screws are likely.

Before you to too far - if you're replacing the element for lack of heat, make sure the breaker/fuses aren't blown - the first video covers some of that. Also make sure that there isn't a huge forest of dust bunnies clogged into the coils. If so, use a crevice tool on a vacuum cleaner, and/or a long thin brush, or canned compressed air, to blow the dust off the coils. ( be careful not to get a snoot-full if blowing with compressed air - laundry rooms are always full of dust and lint, and the filter is in the outlet path, not the inlet path, so all that air that gets heated goes past those wire coils. If you took a lot of dust off, and/or had to reset or replace breakers/fuses, give the current dryer another try before swapping parts. The heater coil is a pretty simple mechanism and shouldn't be prone to failure unless it was profoundly clogged with dust that kept it from getting new aire running past it to cool it / transfer heat.

Hoping this helps!

1. Close the dryer door and press the "Start" button for at least one second. Some dryer brands require the button to be pressed for several seconds. If the drum tumbles, you can eliminate the possibility of a problem with the electrical circuit that supplies the motor.
2. Check all the connections on the back of the dryer. Many dryers have two electrical circuits--one for the heat and one for the tumbling motor. If the motor works, but there is no heat, check to see if the larger plug is plugged into its receptacle. Your dryer may have two plugs--one small regular household plug and one larger 240-volt plug for the heat. Both must be plugged in for the dryer to work properly. The larger, three-pronged 240-volt plug will not fit in a normal household outlet; it needs a special dryer outlet. The plug cannot be cut down to fit.
3. Check the circuit breakers or fuse panel if the dryer runs but there is no heat.

Hello my name is Heath the problem is the heating element is probably burned out and will need replace.

Is your dryer electric with the big plug.
If so, what kind of changes are you making?
The dryer needs to be by the vent outlet so you can't move it far unless you are going to cut a new venting outlet.
If it is electric (not gas) then do not try to extend the cord. Have a licensed electrician move the electrical jack.
The cord has a large amount of current running through it and the longer the cord, the more resistance the current has to flow through. More resistance means more heating of the cord and less voltage for your dryer. This can result in the cord overheating to the point of melting and starting a fire itself or getting hot enough to ignite the very fine and very dry lint particles that are present in any laundry room.

This is a situation where you spend the money and have it done professionally because of the danger of fire, death, etc.

Good Luck!

Felicia
make sure to see if the blower runs free
in this case is your drum belt broken
if you have someone at home to dissassamble the dryer then
replace the belt and test the machine
this is a normal situation when the dryers are not tumble

Hi, Did you put red and black wire to the outer posts? White wire ti center and green to ground screw on cabinet? Dry will run on 120V but needs 240V for heat. Make sure there is 240V to the outlet as well.
Hope this helps. If so, please feel free to rate my answer so that I know how I am doing.
Vic

There is no "adapter" per se, you MAY be able to swap to a 3-wire cord, however that may be against local code. The only other option in that case would be to have a qualified electrician install the newer 4-wire outlet. You need to find out what you local codes are with regard to this issue. If you do change to a 3-wire cord to macth that outlet, it is critical that it be installed correctly.