When my tub requires heat i can hear a click and the pump starting for a second, then nothing , then another click, then somwtimes it will start and run for a few seconds or even a minute, then shut off. Then it will just sit there and keep clicking on and off like its trying to start the heat pump, but just won't start. I can run the jets and they all work fine. its just the heat pump/jet thats having the problem
Sounds like the pump motor is tripping out on thermal overload. Touch that particular motor just after it shuts off. If it is "very" hot to the touch, it probably needs replacement.
SOURCE: Just hooked up my Arctic Spa Tundra. Tub is 2
is the spa fitting leak dripping on a motor? If so this will cause your breaker to trip.
SOURCE: my breaker is conected to
I am assuming this is a GFCI circuit breaker? If it is it will have a "test" button on the breaker. When you say "jets" i'm assuming you mean when you turn on the blower to make the air bubbles? It could be you have a problem with the blower motor. When you start the blower, it trips the breaker. Be sure the blower is in off position when you reset the breaker. The most common fault though on a spa/hot tub is with the heater. If the element goes bad, and current flows to ground, it will trip the GFCI breaker. Again try and turn all functions off. Reset breaker, and then turn on one at a time till the breaker trips. First the pump, then the heat, then the blower.
SOURCE: I have a GE two
Disconnect both hot leads from the breaker at the box. Using an ohmmeter measure the resistance to ground or the neutral bar in your box. If the resistance is LESS than about 50 K you have excessive leakage current. It is unlikely the motor is the problem. I would check the wiring and switching for the leakage. Now to the second problem: If you switch between speeds while the unit is running, the GFI will LIKELY trip. This is normal as you create a massive transient that the GFI PROBABLY can't handle. There are a couple things to try: One is using a two pole control switch and turn off the pump before "switching gears" ... as an electrical engineer I can't explain this unless you can understand electrical transients AND capacitive coupling between the windings and the case of the motor. I realize you may have a combination speed and on off switch so you MIGHT have to add a switch. Ideally I would want a relay for on/off near the breaker that momentarily disconnected before shifting gears. The next fix possibility involves a trick we use to control transients in electronics. This involves noise control by using a toroid around the pair of hot wires. This MIGHT take several turns through a good sized ferrite toroid with both the hots in the same direction, side by side. This forms what we call a "Bi-Filar" choke. Look that up on Google to understand the principle... it essentially helps balance the currents in the hots and isolates them from ground for transients.
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