Need center shaft for Stephen v c m 44 - Hobart/Berkel/Stephan VCM-40/44 Wide Blade

Watch the videos and see if you did it correctly. The oil seal is tight in its seat so it can't be off centre. The best thing for bedding seals is a hydraulic press and a large socket.

https://www.google.com/search?q=installation+of+Hobart+A200+oil+seal

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you can generally find a local repair shop that specializes in resturant/bakery equipment/small aplliance. they will have the parts you need as well.. good luck please rate this

Patent US4832502 - Agitation supporting and ... - Google

https://www.google.ch/patents/US4832502

GoogleMeans for supporting and driving agitators in commercial food mixers and the like ...Agitator means according to claim 1, wherein said drive belt has a tapered cross .... 1, 2 and 4) which is coupled to a bowl-tilt shaft 42 by a drive chain 44 and ...

Patent US4832502 - Agitation supporting and ... - Google

www.google.com/patents/US4832502 GoogleMay 23, 1989 - Agitation supporting and driving means for commercial food mixersand the like ... said agitator driving shaft, and wherein said drive belt extends between.... of the drive chain in the area adjacent the mixing bowl and agitators,

Robotic Mechanisms - PULLEYS and BELTS 51045 ...

www.robotpark.com/.../robotic-mechanisms-pulleys-and-belts-51045/

Jul 17, 2013 - A large drive pulley driving a smaller driven pulley by means of a belt or.... bikes, agricultural machinery, food mixers, washing machines, lawn mowers, etc. ...Chain Drive System: A system consisting of a chain and sprockets ...

My Bamix stopped working--no shaft movement and loud motor noise (think disuse caused motor lubricant to thicken). Propped it upside down and put drops of quality machine oil at seam where narrow blade shaft enters larger shaft (in center of curved guard). Probably not necessary, but added a few drops where large shaft enters handle. Oil slowly seeps in. Attached a blade to manually turn for oil distribution. Did this periodically over several hrs. Turned on low speed and it gradually returned to full speed capacity.

Yes

If you have not gotten this taken care of yet. Turn your mixer upside down and remove the silver drip ring and then take out the drive pin with a punch, the pin holds the planetary on and in place. now with 2 screwdrivers from position 5 o'clock and 7 o'clock gently but firmly pry up until the planetary breaks loose and comes of the center shaft, now you will need some snap ring plyers to remove the agitator shaft, once you look at it you will see how to take apart easy.

Best guess is that the gear for 3rd speed is seized together with it's brass bushing and the center, large transmission shaft. I don't recall which gear is for 3rd, but the transmission has two gears (2nd and 3rd speed) which have brass bushings in them. The brass bushing should spin freely on the center shaft (when in final position - sometimes they pull off the shaft tough, but spin freely when in final position, my opinion is that this is OK), and the gear should spin freely of the brass bushing.
My guess is that the 3rd speed gear, being seized to the center shaft, cannot freely idle on the center shaft, which would result in being stuck in 3rd gear.

Hi TIOBEAN, by the symptoms you describe it appears the Center Shaft ‘O’-ring and quite likely the Transmission Gasket need to be replaced. You don’t mention how old your Artisan mixer is, but I assume it is out of warranty.
The internal gears of your mixer are factory packed with enough grease to last a 'lifetime'—whatever that means, and depending on the age of your mixer, where it was stored, degree and intensity of usage; these factors all contribute to the breakdown of the grease into its constituent parts (oil and suspenders), which have seeped beyond the gasket and ‘O’-ring, down the planetary (agitator shaft). Gravity can be very insidious. The residue coming from the agitator shaft is the gear lubricating grease oil that has come out of suspension.
So how bad is this oil leak problem and what can you do to fix it? First, if the amount of oil found leaking was small and if your mixer otherwise works normally with the missing oil you really don’t need to take your mixer apart to ‘fix’ it. The good news, though, is that you can take the mixer apart and 'fix' it, if you feel it is necessary.
It would be helpful to have the Part List manual as a reference. If you're lacking one, you can download a PDF version from the KA website at: http://www.kitchenaid.com/flash.cmd?/#/page/home. Having the Parts List on hand will also be helpful as you will have to disassemble and reassemble your mixer to replace the ‘O’-ring and gasket.
Click on Customer Care>Locate Manuals & Guides> and enter the 6 character model number, KSM150 and select the file KSM150PSWH0.pdf (773.44 KB) listed for your model that appears under Parts List (61), and save that file to your PC.
Turn to pages 6 & 7, titled:”Case, Gearing And Planetary Unit” and locate Illus. No. 28, Center Shaft & O-Ring; particularly Illus No. 15 & 16, Transmission Gasket and ‘O’-Ring respectively. I suspect these parts have failed and will need to be replaced. Now the real fun begins!
To get to the Vertical Shaft you’ll need the following tools: a regular or Phillips screw driver, retaining clip pliers, and a small drift pin punch and a small hammer. After removing the Gearcase Motor Housing (mixer top) you will need to remove all the lubricating grease from the transmission housing and gears. This will allow you to remove Illus No. 11, 13, & 14, Bevel Pinion Center Gear, Pin (Vertical Center Shaft) and Groove Pin, respectively.
You should now be able to tap the Vertical Center Shaft (Illus. No. 12) down through the Lower Gearcase housing to access the ‘O’-ring.
Besides ordering a new ‘O’-ring (Illus. No. 16) and Transmission Gasket (Illus No. 15), you’ll also need to replace the grease you removed with new grease. Do not try to reuse any original grease as it may have ‘debris’ in it. You should use a food-grade grease that you can order online (although I’ve seen automotive bearing grease used too – your call).
With your mixer apart and the grease removed from the gears you can check them for any other unseemly wear and tear, too.
Here are five potential vendors in no particular order: RepairClinic.com; mendingshed.com; searspartsdirect.com; partstore.com; and Grainger.com (for grease). You should search for ‘food grade grease’ online (although I’ve seen automotive bearing grease used too – your call). Prices can vary widely between vendors, so do some comparison shopping.
Here are some links to several excellent websites that detail the disassembling/reassembly of a KA Mixer.

• http://www.artisanbreadbaking.com/discussions/kitchen-aid.htm
• http://www.neilcrockett.com/mixer.htm
• http://www.foodonthefood.com/food_on_the_food/2009/04/how-to-repair-a-kitchenaid-mixer-yourself.html

Between these three websites and their excellent pictures and descriptions and your Parts List manual, you should now be able to completely disassemble, determine what’s wrong, order the correct parts and reassemble your mixer.
Good luck. I hope this helps. Howard, Burke, VA
If this solution has helped you, please rate it, thanks! - hslincoln

Lock out-Tagout the machine. Remove the top cover, hold the beater shaft while removing the center shaft nut. Then remove the 4 bolts and and hardware on top of the first(worm) shaft and the second(clutch)shaft. you can gently tap the top cover up with a cold chisel on the upper parts of the housing. It's just a friction fit , aligned on two dowels. Once the cover is off, scoop out the grease, remove the side panel and selector assembly. Try and lift all of the first gear assembly together. the newer ones have a series of rollers and springs, which can be easily reassembled, if you see which way everything was. As you rmove parts, lay them on a clean surface in a row in the position they came out. The selector sleeve is marked TOP, but looking at the 4 drive teeth each side, you will see how it drives 2nd and 3rd gears. The clutch and worm shafts lift out together from slip fit bearings in the housing base.

When reassembling, coat everything with new grease, and run before loading all the grease. If you need to remove anything , you won't be up to your wrists in grease doing it. Once all is good, load the grease in the top hole nearest the motor with it running. The gears will feed the grease as you load the 35 OZ.
If you removed the planetary to remove the center shaft, don't tighten the half nut tight. back it off a half turn and lock it with the acorn nut. Otherwise you will loose first gear from pinch friction.

Check the spring pin that locks the motor shaft to the main drive gear in the gear box. You should be able to turn the motor from the back at the cooling fins and watch the shaft spin in the gear, that is if the pin is sheared. That is a common problem. if you plan on keeping this machine for a while, i recomend that you spend a little more on a quality spring pin,

mechanictony-
good luck.

Thats the center shaft and if it moves back and forth the lower bearing is bad or the shaft has cracked.You need to remove all 3 shaft assemblys. if you already removed the gears on the center shaft then you need to remove the shifting yoke---turn power off to machine then take the screws off the trim plate where you shift speeds,you might see a switch that sits up on the shifter cam,remove the screws and put switch aside,take the 4 allen screws off and pull on the shifter(it will come out).If you didnt already drain the oil do it before you mess with the shifter.after the shifter is out grab the upper left gear assy. and the gear assy. below it,rock both gear assy. and pull up,they will both come out(you might need some force)once out remove the remaining gears on the center shaft and remove the shifting yokes.you then need to remove the planetary (lower part of mixer)if not already done,then pull the shaft out from the bottom.any questions let me know.