Can you bypass the bi-metal thermal cutoff? I have replaced this switch 5 times, and now i'm replacing it again. the tco only lasted 2 weeks. (kitchen aid dishwasher)

Whirlpool Thin Twin, dryer thermal cutoff failed twice - Appliance ...

forum.appliancepartspros.com > Appliance Repair Help > Dryer Repair

Oct 12, 2011 - 6 posts - ‎2 authors
Friends Whirlpool Thin Twin came with purchase of condo half a year ago. A month ago it stopped heating. I checked continuity and found the ... Whirlpool Dryer Thermal Cutoff
2 posts
Jan 9, 2013
Thermal cutoff blew again (Whrpl Elect Dryer)
1 post
Jan 5, 2013
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Why does the thermal fuse keep blowing in my dryer ...

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You might have debris clogging the drain/disposal. My wife just tried to wash labels off of some old jars, the paper is stuck in the drain and my TCO is blown.

The T.C.O switch which is located on the outside of the burner area needs replacing. It has two wire that connect to it from the gas valve. This switch controls the gas to the pilot burner tube. If it has tripped it will not allow the
pilot to stay lit or allow gas into the pilot tube.

If you bypass the hi limit thermostat you will blow your thermal fuse within minutes. The hi limit thermostat is a bi-metal thermostat which warps when heated to kill power to the element. If its bypassed then the element will not turn off.....which will in turn blow your thermal fuse which is rated at a higher temp than the hi limit. So unfortunately it will not work.

Hope this helps _MJ_

sounds like the bi- metal thermo-stat switch puts in a week, then takes a little time off,now what's the matter with that, replace switch or if you're mechanically inclined you could clean and recalibrate the bi-metal switch

how about bypassing the thermistor,you really only need the heater box fuse and high temp. cut out thermostat-mike

Mine had the same problem ... all the lights are on, but no heating on the plate, and no dripping of water.

After a weekend on the workbench, I've mastered this machine. The KM7005 has 2 x MicroTemp G4 thermal cutoff (TCO) fuses which interrupt the Live line, for overheat protection. Mine didn't overheat per se, but the TCO blew anyway. Not reset-able ... need to be replaced with a soldering iron. I'll be happy to advise you to fix this, or fix it for you. Write me at [email protected].

well its had it chuck it out

Here is your problem and yes it can be fixed.

More than likely your thermal cutoff tripped because your heater got too hot.

Solution:
1. Unplug unit.
2. remove front support feet and screw underneath face plate will slide off.
3. You will see the heating element, a white wire is coming out of it. There is a white sleeve on the wire tucked up into the element. Pull the wire out and slide sleeve off to expose the thermal switch labeled (S.W.C. sw-120t ect.) You can google it to learn more about the cutoff. If you know how you can test the cutoff with a ammeter or voltmeter, If you don't google how to test electrical systems. Remember "first do no harm"
4.
a. If you can replace the cutoff do so (this is the recommended way)
b. If you don't want to replace it cut the cutoff out and solder the wires back together. (be warned that this will bypass the safety system) If you do this be careful to not leave your radiator unattended.
5. After soldering the wire, taping it will electrical tape. Replace face plate from step 1 and 2 and your heater will work.
P.s. If your heater is still under warranty just contact lakewood.

It's call a bad thermal cut-out. You should have a thermal cut-out and a high limit thermostat located adjacent to the heating element (usually mounted right on the heating element housing). They both should read a short or fairly low resistance in the case of the thermostat. If the thermal cut-out is blown it is not a resettable device and must be replaced. The tco is usually sold along with the high limit thermostat. It is HIGHLY recommended that you replace BOTH at the same time. DO NOT attempt to bypass any of these devices either. They are there as safety devices to prevent overheating. You could end up with a fire if you do. Now...with all that said, the tco will blow for a reason. Not cleaning the lint trap will contribute to it, but the big item is the ducting. If the vent ducting is clogged you will experience longer dry times and eventually the tco will trip again. Take the time to THOROUGHLY clean and/or replace your vent ducting from the wall all the way to the vent opening outside. In addition, while you have the dryer open THOROUGHLY clean the inside as well. This includes the air baffle where the blower fan is located. Rule of thumb: if you have lint INSIDE the dryer, it's clogged somewhere. Good luck and I hope this helps you.