Roland Dp 2 Damper Pedal dont work

First you need to make sure that the keyboard is programmed to accept the DP-10 as factory default and then that the DP-10 is working perfectly. There is a case where the DP-10 action switch is activated directly, in this case the sustain does not stop and you need to change the micro switch of the DP-10 pedal. It has already happened to me and I replace it by adapting another micro because Roland does not support you and wants you to buy another DP-10.

Try plugging in the pedal with the Roland powered down or off. With the pedal plugged in, turn the Roland on again. The Roland should sense the polarity upon power up. If this doesn't work, I have had those pedals get defective right out of the box, so try this...Get a ¼ inch guitar or signal cable and plug that into the damper jack. The cable will represent an open circuit polarity since nothing is shorting out the leads. See if the EP77 is sustaining or if it is not. Alternately, try shorting the guitar cable by laying a piece of metal across the top and bottom of the jack. A pocket or kitchen knife or any bare wire will do. If this does not work, your assumption about the power supply may be correct.

I can't! In my opinion, no. Start drift boss customize your car by choosing different colors and patterns.

It looks like the cable terminates into a 1/4" stereo or 3 wire plug.

Best: I recommend going to Radio shack or an audio store and buying a 1/4" stereo plug/ with cable that has one end loose and attaching the loose end to your foot pedal. I do not know why it is stereo unless there are 2 pedals but if so ,you will need to determine which wire works on which pedal so leave pedal cover loose until you test it. I have replaced these before.
OK method: The cable can be spliced using solder and heat shrink to isolate the wires. Use probably 1//8 to 3/16" shrink for the wires and 1/4" to 3/8" shrink over the whole job. Keep each wire separate by color type.If the wire is too hard to twist it may be a special type that can be connected using terminal strips(radio shack has them) or use wire nuts and tape them.

Look for a setting "pedal polarity" someplace either in the software or in the units.

Read section 2.4.2 of the Axiom manual. Also Appendix E where sustain is documented. The sustain is controller 64. I would use method 1 of the 2.4.2 writeup. You actuate the control (pedal) which arms the unit to accept setup sequence for that particular input.

You want to turn on MIDI output for the sustain pedal. Now remember that a Roland pedal has revese polarity of MOST others and that may needs to be setup. It is NOT clear from the documentation if the Axiom recognizes the reverse sense of the pedal, but it should. It SHOULD sense the pedal is normally closed and when you actuate it sense the change so you can configure it.

Some of the software MAY try to configure the Axiom and ASSUME the pedal is the more common polarity and undo the programming you have done.

I assume you are plugging this into a ROLAND brand product as the Roland sustain uses a normally CLOSED contact while MOST other brands use NORMALLY OPEN contacts.

The Roland synths now monitor the pedal as the power is turned on and supposedly decides which contact type is used.

Remember that for MANY voices, such as piano, notes are held longer BUT they do not continue indefinitely just like the sustain on a real piano works. On a real piano the dampers are lifted, but the strings eventually stop ringing due to the losses of energy in the strings.

Some voices will be held,such as organ tones.

I don't have enough information from your post regarding what voice you are having trouble with.

1.Make sure you are plugged in to DAMPER (not FC1 or FC2) 2. Check to see if the notes STOP sustaining when you PRESS the pedal. If that is the case, first try turning off the Roland with the pedal plugged in and restarting with the pedal pressed down. 3. Press the EDIT button and scroll to Damper Polarity. See if it's set to Standard or Reverse. 4. If problem persists after all that, try holding the pedal jack into the Roland at different angles and then try the same with where the cable connects to the pedal. At that point, you can either attempt to repair the pedal or get another one.
Hope this helps, Stewart

The answer is NO... Roland uses the opposite sense switches on foot pedals... They use NIRMALLY CLOSED and your Yamaha is a NORMALLY OPEN switch.

SOMETIMES you can open these pedals and find that the pedal has the opposite sense switch available and you only have to unsolder and move one wire to make it a NORMALLY CLOSED pedal.

Please note that ROLAND equipment USUALLY uses Normally closed (electrically) damper pedals for their equipment. Most other brands use normally open ones. If you are using a non-Roland pedal, that is likely the problem.

SOME PEDALS require opening and changing a wire (involves soldering) to match the unit you are plugging into. A very few have a switch on them to allow changing polarity.

A few synths, like the Yamaha Tyros have a built in setup screen where one can select the polarity of the attached pedals.

There are two types of damper pedal switches, on that is closed until you press it, and one that closes when your press it. It sounds like your Casio is expecting one type and your Roland pedal is the other type. A quick way to test this is to plug a guitar cable into the Casio pedal input and see if the keyboard sustains. If it does, then your Casio requires an "normally closed" switch.

Some pedals have a small switch near the cord or even on the bottom of the pedal that will reverse the switching operation (BOSS pedals, a division of Roland, have this feature). If you can find that, then change the switch position and you should be OK.

If not, and you feel like digging into your pedal, you could take the bottom off of the pedal and check out the switch itself. Many pedals use a switch that can be used either way. The clue will be on the switch itself. If there is an extra tab on the switch that is unused, then switch the wire that is furthest away from that tab to that tab. This will probably involve soldering, but it is nearly impossible to damage anything.
If moving the wire that is furthest away does not do anything, then try putting that wire back and switching the other one.

If your pedal does NOT have an extra tab, you're SOL, unless you want to buy a replacement switch (unsure of make). If this is the case, you are probably better off getting a different damper pedal - preferably one that is marketed as "universal"