I have a hobart mixer 80 quart .The motor makes a noise and would not start. It only starts if I turn the shaft and turn the on switch at the same time

Trina you might be better off to contact Hobart or an authorised Hobart service agent about this. The lack of answers probably indicates resident hobart experts are absent.

The gear has not really changed. It is a fail-safe gear designed to break before the motor is damaged by the transmission being jammed.

As to whether it will last, I can't say. I know of no other sources for the gear other than keeping a watch of Ebay.

There are four possibilities to look at here. Assuming your mixer has a normal capacitor start motor (older a200's used a different style motor), possibilities are, in order of likelihood:

Motor start capacitor
Start switch (electronic or mechanical)
Burned wiring
Motor start winding

The start capacitor is located at the rear of the mixer. Remove the rear cover (4 screws) and pull the cover towards you. Disconnect one wire from the capacitor and test with any multimeter.

The start switch, if electronic, is able to be tested, but not very easily. Once you've eliminated the other possibilities, it's time to replace the (electronic) start switch. If the motor has a mechanical start switch, it's easy to test: Remove the two wires at the rear of the motor and test for continuity with the motor stationary. A multimeter should show near zero ohms for a good mechanical start switch.

Burned wiring should be easy to spot with some careful inspection around the motor, capacitor, and start switch.

Start winding: Look closely at the stator (stationary part of the motor). If some of the copper windings look significantly darker in color than the others, it's likely the start windings were overheated (the start windings are the thinner copper wires - if you look closely, approximately half of the wires are thinner than the other half). Look for a wiring diagram behind the power switch and determine which wires leading to the start switch and/or capacitor are for the start windings and test for continuity across the start winding. You should read a fairly small value such as 5 - 15 ohms. Values significantly outside this range could indicate a partially open or partially shorted start winding.

Go to your local Motor repair shop. They usually have used ones laying around or can sell you a new one.They wont try to sell you the new improved solid state controlled version!

Good luck!

Assuming the unit is 120v, single phase, my money is on a bad electronic start switch (not to be confused with the on/off switch) It's not visible without some disassembly. Usually, it is located at the rear of the motor cavity. Take note of all the info on your model data plate then go here to obtain a parts breakdown on your particular mixer. http://www.hobartservice.com/Parts/

I'd suggest replacing the capacitor as well.

hobart m-800
It's a 60 Qt model.

Hi. If the motor does not turn, the problem is electrical. Trace and test the electrical circuitry with the mixer unplugged. Start with the electrical plug and work your way through to the motor and switch connections. An electric motor technician should be called in if you are not familiar with electrical troubleshooting techniques. Good luck!.

If this solution has assisted you, please rate it. ricardok45

You can put in a all purpose grease. I use MOBIL 1 Synthetic Grease (RED IN COLOR) and it works fine -- you will need 3 tubs of 16oz's each tub. The cost is 30.00 or so. Make sure to get all of the old grease out and pack around each of the trans and worm shafts with the grease, then pack around the MOTOR GEAR and then put all back together. While running it make sure you can see the grease and hear the noise of the mixer through the 2 caps that are FILL caps on the head of the mixer. ALSO, you will find that you will lose 1st gear IF you have tigtened down too much on the LOCK nut, SOOOO loosen in small increments until all 3 gears are perfect and strong. ALSO, the key to noise adjustment is to Tighten (WHILE MIXER IS RUNNING) slowly the large nut that controls pressure on the worm transmission. The general rule with tigtening this nut is to tighten it till it will not tighten and then back off the nut -- IF the unit when starting does not run or it seems bound up when you first turn it back on, THEN you have tightened it TOO MUCH, SOOO back it off again (loosen it) until it starts smoothly and when you turn the mixer OFF it should come to a slow stop and not abruptly stop the mixer. Hope this helps some of you out there trying to do your own adjustments --

No, do not swap hot and N.

First, verify rotation. As the attachment shaft rotates, it should push the engagement pin into the keeper slot. Looking down on top of the mixer, the planetary should rotate clockwise.

If the unit runs backwards, does it start slow? Can you get it to run either way by giving it a push start before turning on the power? If so, your start switch is not working properly. (Which is my guess) Check your capacitor.

There is mechanical and electronic start switches. (Metal arms and a contact or a little gold rectangular metal can.)

Check it out and let me know what you find -- Mike