Go kart will not start, when you turn the ignition on it just clicks. THe starter and starter relay solenoid have been replaced. The wire coming from the solenoid to start is extremely hot after trying o start.

Can you push it off and pop the clutch in 2nd gear to start.

If it won't crank over, it's a problem in the starting circuit, not the ignition circuit. Check your battery and starter for clean, tight connections. Listen for that click to see if it comes from the starter solenoid on the starter-maybe have someone try to start it while you watch and listen under the hood. If the click is from the solenoid (and not from the starter relay), then the starter is not getting full battery power to crank (bad connection), or the starter needs to come off and be tested.
If the click is from the starter relay, you could pull off the little purple wire to the starter solenoid and see if it has 12 volts when the key is in start position. If you have power there in cranking position on the switch, the solenoid is bad or the starter may be the problem-again, it will have to come off for testing. If you have no power at the solenoid in cranking position, the circuit from the ignition switch to the solenoid is not working. The start relay and the neutral safety switch (or clutch switch if manual transmission) are in the starting circuit from ignition switch to the starter solenoid. Good luck.

COMMON CAUSES OF NO-CRANK NO-START

Low battery (Check battery voltage, recharge if low, or jump start with another vehicle or battery charger).
Loose or corroded battery cables (Inspect, clean and tighten BOTH ends of BOTH battery cables).
Bad starter relay wiring connections or ground connection (Inspect, clean, tighten wiring connections).
Bad starter relay/solenoid (Check for voltage at relay, if relay has voltage but there is no "click" when key is turned to start, replace relay).
Bad starter (Jump battery voltage direct to starter to see if it spins, or remove starter and have it bench tested at auto parts store).
Damaged starter drive or teeth on flywheel (Remove starter and inspect drive gear and flywheel teeth, replace damaged parts if necessary).
Bad ignition switch (Check to see if voltage reaches starter relay/solenoid when turn to start. If not, check for open P/N switch and brake or clutch pedal switch. Replace ignition switch if defective).
Open P/N safety switch, or open Brake Pedal Safety Switch (automatic transmission) or open Clutch Pedal Switch (manual transmission). Bypass switch with jumper wire to see if engine cranks, or use test light or voltmeter to check for voltage passing through switch when ignition is turned to start.
Engine seized due to bearing failure or internal damage (Use socket and long handle to see if engine can be turned by hand, if not engine is locked up).
Engine hydrolocked due to coolant leak from leaky head gasket (Use socket and wrench to see if engine rotates, remove spark plugs and see if coolant comes out or engine can not be cranked with plugs out).

Hi, this is what you should do when your car won't start. Diagnosing a no-start condition requires a logical approach to figuring out what might be preventing your car from starting. First, if the engine won't even crank over when you turn the ignition to START, your car obviously won't start.
When you turn the ignition key to start your car, voltage from the battery flows through the ignition switch to the Park/Neutral safety switch and/or brake pedal or clutch pedal safety switch (you have to push the pedal down before the circuit will complete) to the starter relay or solenoid. When the relay or solenoid is energized by voltage from the ignition switch circuit, it closes a contact that routes more power from the battery directly to the starter to crank the engine. The starter motor spins, pushes the starter drive gear to engage the flywheel and cranks the engine.

If the engine fails to crank, there is a fault in one of the components in the battery/ignition/starter circuit. Check it out.....

• Low battery (Check battery voltage, recharge if low, or jump start with another vehicle or battery charger).
• Loose or corroded battery cables (Inspect, clean and tighten BOTH ends of BOTH battery cables).
• Bad starter relay wiring connections or ground connection (Inspect, clean, tighten wiring connections).
• Bad starter relay/solenoid (Check for voltage at relay, if relay has voltage but there is no "click" when key is turned to start, replace relay).
• Bad starter (Jump battery voltage direct to starter to see if it spins, or remove starter and have it bench tested at auto parts store).
• Damaged starter drive or teeth on flywheel (Remove starter and inspect drive gear and flywheel teeth, replace damaged parts if necessary).
• Bad ignition switch (Check to see if voltage reaches starter relay/solenoid when turn to start. If not, check for open P/N switch and brake or clutch pedal switch. Replace ignition switch if defective).
• Open P/N safety switch, or open Brake Pedal Safety Switch (automatic transmission) or open Clutch Pedal Switch (manual transmission). Bypass switch with jumper wire to see if engine cranks, or use test light or voltmeter to check for voltage passing through switch when ignition is turned to start.
• Engine seized due to bearing failure or internal damage (Use socket and long handle to see if engine can be turned by hand, if not engine is locked up).
• Engine hydrolocked due to coolant leak from leaky head gasket (Use socket and wrench to see if engine rotates, remove spark plugs and see if coolant comes out or engine can not be cranked with plugs out).

When you turn the ignition key to start your car, voltage from the battery flows through the ignition switch to the Park/Neutral safety switch and/or brake pedal or clutch pedal safety switch (you have to push the pedal down before the circuit will complete) to the starter relay or solenoid. When the relay or solenoid is energized by voltage from the ignition switch circuit, it closes a contact that routes more power from the battery directly to the starter to crank the engine. The starter motor spins, pushes the starter drive gear to engage the flywheel and cranks the engine.

Low battery (Check battery voltage, recharge if low, or jump start with another vehicle or battery charger).
Loose or corroded battery cables (Inspect, clean and tighten BOTH ends of BOTH battery cables).
Bad starter relay wiring connections or ground connection (Inspect, clean, tighten wiring connections).
Bad starter relay/solenoid (Check for voltage at relay, if relay has voltage but there is no "click" when key is turned to start, replace relay).
Bad starter (Jump battery voltage direct to starter to see if it spins, or remove starter and have it bench tested at auto parts store).
Damaged starter drive or teeth on flywheel (Remove starter and inspect drive gear and flywheel teeth, replace damaged parts if necessary).
Bad ignition switch (Check to see if voltage reaches starter relay/solenoid when turn to start. If not, check for open P/N switch and brake or clutch pedal switch. Replace ignition switch if defective).
Open P/N safety switch, or open Brake Pedal Safety Switch (automatic transmission) or open Clutch Pedal Switch (manual transmission). Bypass switch with jumper wire to see if engine cranks, or use test light or voltmeter to check for voltage passing through switch when ignition is turned to start.
Engine seized due to bearing failure or internal damage (Use socket and long handle to see if engine can be turned by hand, if not engine is locked up).
Engine hydrolocked due to coolant leak from leaky head gasket (Use socket and wrench to see if engine rotates, remove spark plugs and see if coolant comes out or engine can not be cranked with plugs out).

When you turn the ignition key to start your car, voltage from the battery flows through the ignition switch to the Park/Neutral safety switch and/or brake pedal or clutch pedal safety switch (you have to push the pedal down before the circuit will complete) to the starter relay or solenoid. When the relay or solenoid is energized by voltage from the ignition switch circuit, it closes a contact that routes more power from the battery directly to the starter to crank the engine. The starter motor spins, pushes the starter drive gear to engage the flywheel and cranks the engine.

Low battery (Check battery voltage, recharge if low, or jump start with another vehicle or battery charger).
Loose or corroded battery cables (Inspect, clean and tighten BOTH ends of BOTH battery cables).
Bad starter relay wiring connections or ground connection (Inspect, clean, tighten wiring connections).
Bad starter relay/solenoid (Check for voltage at relay, if relay has voltage but there is no "click" when key is turned to start, replace relay).
Bad starter (Jump battery voltage direct to starter to see if it spins, or remove starter and have it bench tested at auto parts store).
Damaged starter drive or teeth on flywheel (Remove starter and inspect drive gear and flywheel teeth, replace damaged parts if necessary).
Bad ignition switch (Check to see if voltage reaches starter relay/solenoid when turn to start. If not, check for open P/N switch and brake or clutch pedal switch. Replace ignition switch if defective).
Open P/N safety switch, or open Brake Pedal Safety Switch (automatic transmission) or open Clutch Pedal Switch (manual transmission). Bypass switch with jumper wire to see if engine cranks, or use test light or voltmeter to check for voltage passing through switch when ignition is turned to start.
Engine seized due to bearing failure or internal damage (Use socket and long handle to see if engine can be turned by hand, if not engine is locked up).
Engine hydrolocked due to coolant leak from leaky head gasket (Use socket and wrench to see if engine rotates, remove spark plugs and see if coolant comes out or engine can not be cranked with plugs out).

You're describing a no rotation issue and not a no start issue correct? If you dont hear/feel the starter relay clicking, it eliminates everything in the circuit to that point meaning the ignition switch, Transmission Range Sensor (TRS) (you don't have a neutral start switch unless you have a rare manual transmission), ground input from the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) to the starter relay coil, and starter relay are good. Based on what you've said that leaves the primary battery cable from the battery to the starter, and the wire from the starter relay to the starter solenoid contact on the starter. Have you checked their continuity? One more voltage to check at contact 30 (input volts from battery to starter relay contacts) on the starter relay socket. Should see 12vdc all the time.

You should check the battery. The true test is a load test. Does jumping the battery using jumper cables make any difference? If it starts, change the battery. I take it to check the starter you jumpered the solenoid contact on the starter to the battery correct? Have you tried wiggling the battery cables as you turn the key? They can corrode and fail internally. Are the engine and chassy ground connections clean and tight?

has it got an immobiliser / if so there is a fault there. If not an ignition switch itself.

Bad ignition switch it sounds like. A contact may be bad inside your switch upon turning it to the start position

I have both a Stealth, and a 3000GT, so I guess you could say that know a bit about the platform. this sounds like one of three possible things.

• Starter
• Starter relay (in that funny shaped box behind the passenger side headlight)
• "click click start" or maybe loose trigger wire at the starter
  

If you know anyone with a 3000, try to borrow their starter relay, it is about a 10 second swap, and you will know very quickly if it is the problem.

If the starter solenoid isn't even clicking, I am leaning heavily towards either a completely disconnected trigger wire, or a bad starter. If it is clicking, then it is most likely click click start

click click start occurs because Mitsu, in their infinite wisdom put a wire to the starter (the trigger wire) which was BARELY sized large enough to carry enough current to activate the solenoid on the starter, over time, and corrosion, the wire becomes too thin to carry enough current, so it does not fully engage the solenoid... the solution is to install a relay at the starter so the trigger wire closes the circuit in the relay from the hot power side of the relay to the trigger. The hot power side of the relay is ALWAYS on, and the wire is big enough to carry enough amperage. Thats the way I did it, you can also put the relay up by the battery, here are instructions for doing it this way, personally, I like the relay down tie-wrapped to the starter myself.