MY AMP MAKES A SQUEEK NOISE THROUGH MY SUBS SO I TOOK IT APART AND THERES A SMALL PART BURNED IT SAYS 1001 ON IT HOW DO I REPLACE IT

I normally don't work on gas dryers but it sounds like the drum rollers are in need of lubrication. Check your drum rollers for flat spots or wear, if they have flat spots or wear on them replace them. If the drum rollers don't have flat spots or wear on them then they probably only need lubrication. Lubricate the shaft of the rollers with a good grade of machine oil such as 3 in One oil. Reassemble the dryer, plug back in. This should solve your noise problem. I will include these two websites for parts and further help: http://www.partselect.com/ http://www.appliancepartspros.com/index.aspx Both also have chat assistance 24/7. Good Luck, I hope this helps Please rate me, Thank You

first make sure that you have power check the red thick wire, and the remote wire with a voltmeter if its ok then disconect the rca plugs now get a pair of rca wires plug one end to the amp and touch the other end if it makes noise your amp is good ( please be very carefull as it will make a loud noise on the speakers when you touch the other end if the amp is good) good luck

If you didn't find any burned parts that would mean one of the buffer amplifiers before the power amp could have died. They could either be transistor based or opamp based. They are fairly low power so they will not explode like the output transistors like to do. Contact rockford, they should be able to send you a schematic. Let me know I will try to help you through it.

the same thing happened to me &nd i took it apart &nd nothing happened .

THERES A PROBLEM WITH YOUR RCA'S,IF YOU JIGGLE THEM WHILE THERE HOOKED UP TO THE AMP AND THEY MAKE THINGS LOUDER OR POP THAN YOU NEED TO GET THE RCA TERMINALS FIXED.

The amp should always light up showing you that it is powered and there will also be a red light that will light up if theres something wrong.Sounds like maybe the hot wire that goes to the amp isnt big enough to give the amp enough power.Check your positive wire and ground wire for tightness and make sure hot wire supply is big enough and also the ground wire is big enough and has a good ground.I hope this Helps you.Have A great day..

I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/joe_a3369546f8067589

output blown on power supply - repair by tech required.

In all reality, that amp is probably a bit small for those two subs. To maximize the power from the amp to the subs, make sure:

• The dual voice coils of each sub are in parallel (+'s together, -'s together). This makes each sub 2 ohms.
  
• Connect the subs in series (+ to -). This makes the combination of subs together 4 ohms.
  
• Bridge the 2 channels of the amp to the subs in series (see above).

This will put somewhere between 150-200W to each sub.

Keep in mind, though, that depending on the music type and location in the vehicle, the type and size of the sub box is going to make almost as much difference as how much power is on the subs. Sealed boxes are usually small and have a nice flat response, but tend to need more power to sound louder. Ported and bandpass boxes are larger and aren't as flat of a response, but have nice loud peak at a certain frequency.

Let me know if you need any more help!

check your fuse up front first. some amps will turn the light on with only the remote wire (the 12 volt signal from the head unit). That may be your issue. If not you need to check your signal input. try hooking the rca's to a diffrent source, i.e. other radio your tv anything with Rca out put. If still you get nothing then pull your subs out and take a regular 9 volt battery and touch the leads to the positive and negative of the sub. Just for a moment though if the subs move when they come in contact with the charge from the battery then my last suggestion would be to take it to a store where you can have an authorized tech check out the equiptment. Good luck

you can simply and easily replace 3 capacitors on the main amplifier board (c58 - 47uF 63v or 100v) + (c52 & c53 - 220uF 25v) but stand them away from the board on the length of the capacitor leads to prevent them from absorbing heat from surrounding hot components (with heat shrink tubing to prevent shorting)

these are usually the cause of most problems with KEF PSW subs, as for it sounding wooly, this is just the way it is, mine is the same.