How to check coil - kawasaki Fh680vgs24 23hp 23 Hp Lawn Mower Engine Motor ()

Disconnect the ignition coil output wire at the distributor cap.
Connect a spark plug to the end of the ignition coil output wire which you just disconnected.
Connect a ground wire to the threaded portion of the spark plug.
Disconnect the ignition coil ground wire from the negative terminal on the coil (Green Wire).
Connect one end of a ground wire to the ignition coil negative terminal.
Turn the ignition switch to the ON position.
Tap the other end of the ignition coil ground wire jumper on an good grounding point (for example the battery negative terminal) and look for sparks at the spark plug that correspond to the frequency of your tapping of the ground wire.
If you have a good spark at the spark plug, the ignition coil is good.
If you don't get a good spark, check for approximately 12 VDC from the coil positive terminal (black wire) to ground with the ignition switch in the ON position. You should also get approximately 12 VDC from the coil negative terminal (Green wire) to ground
Ignition Coil Resistance Check

In addition to the test above, you may elect to perform an ignition coil resistance check as confirmation of the coil's condition.

Check the ignition coil primary coil resistance by connecting an ohmmeter between the positive (Black wire) and negative (Green wire) terminals on the coil. The resistance should be 0.4 to 0.6 ohms.
Check the ignition coil secondary coil resistance by connecting an ohmmeter between the coil output terminal and the ignition coil negative terminal. The resistance should be 5000 to 7200 ohms.

You may have a bad coil or bad ground or wire connection

Ignition Coil Primary Circuit Test

Remove the coil. THEN set your ohmmeter scale to RX1 and place ohmmeter leads on the primary coil windings A (front of coil) to B (middle of coil), B to C (front of coil) and check for primary coil winding resistance which normal resistance range is zero point five and zero point seven ohms. If primary resistance is not within this range check out test results below.

Ignition Coil Secondary Circuit Test

With the ignition coil removed from the motorcycle and the ohmmeter set to the RX1K scale place the ohmmeter leads on the secondary coil windings B (middle terminal) to

R (rear secondary terminal/socket), B to F (front secondary terminal/socket) and check for secondary coil winding resistance which normal resistance range will be 5.5-7.5K ohms. If secondary resistance is not within this range check out test results below.

Test Results

A low resistance value indicates a short in the coil winding which requires coil replacement.

A high resistance value might indicate that there is some corrosion/oxidation of the coil terminals requiring the coil terminals to be cleaned and the resistance test then repeated and if after the test is repeated the resistance is still high after the terminals were cleaned the coil must be replaced.

If there is an infinite ohms or no continuity) resistance value the coil is open and must be replaced.

If your coil checks out OK, as you say, then the problem isn't the coil. How did you check the coil. Did you take the high tension wire on the coil off the distributor and ground it to the engine- and you got a bluish spark?. If you did, then the coil is working. Did you measure the voltage at the coil primary 12v. terminals and got +12v.
If all this checks out OK, the problem is likely in the distribor cap and rotor.

Ignition Coil Primary Circuit Test
Remove the coil. THEN set your ohmmeter scale to RX1 and place ohmmeter leads on the primary coil windings A (front of coil) to B (middle of coil), B to C (front of coil) and check for primary coil winding resistance which normal resistance range is 0.5-0.7 ohms. If primary resistance is not within this range check out test results below.

Ignition Coil Secondary Circuit Test
With the ignition coil removed from the motorcycle and the ohmmeter set to the RX1K scale place the ohmmeter leads on the secondary coil windings B (middle terminal) to
R (rear secondary terminal/socket), B to F (front secondary terminal/socket) and check for secondary coil winding resistance which normal resistance range will be 5.5-7.5K ohms. If secondary resistance is not within this range check out test results below.

Test Results
A low resistance value indicates a short in the coil winding which requires coil replacement.

A high resistance value might indicate that there is some corrosion/oxidation of the coil terminals requiring the coil terminals to be cleaned and the resistance test then repeated and if after the test is repeated the resistance is still high after the terminals were cleaned the coil must be replaced.
If there is an infinite ohms or no continuity) resistance value the coil is open and must be replaced.

Either your coils are bad, or they are not getting power, or they are not getting a signal from the pulse coils.
Check ignition fuses
Check for ~12V at coils with ignition on.
Find pulse coil connector, check resistance across leads, should NOT be zero, and should not be infinite, consider about 100 ohms OK. (These wear out more often than the coils.)
If these three checks are OK, check the primary and secondary resistance of your coils. The resistance across the wire connections on the coil body should be about 10X the resistance from the spark plug wire to the coil connection.
All the best!

check coil wire corrosion at coil terminal. if ok, check for power to coil with key in run position. if coil wire removed from coil, and engine is cranked, does it arch to ground? if does, check dist. cap. coil button, on center of cap could be burnt/gone. check for moisture in cap.

if you have a coil check that you have power to it 12 volt. if you have efi check for a code fault when checking the coil check that there is current at both terminals to ensure current is passing through the coil. Check that you have the correct voltage coil fitted as if you have fitted a 12 v resisted coil with out the resistor it is possible the coil is r/s

If by coil you mean each individual coil.
Check the power output to the coil through its plug. Do this with a volt meter and check the pins inside the plug. A combination of two pins will result in a voltage being produced. Check the others and take results if the differ youl'll see why.

If its a coil pack that has a ht lead coil.
Check the coil pack terminal output results as above.
Normally if the coil pack is defective you will have two cylinders that a defective on the coil pack.
Al in all being a mechanic check the voltage output to seek results and you see the answer check the leads with a plug out in a lead technic is a good one to see a spark
hope i can help
bakerboy11.
Automobile

At the cost of the igniter i recommend checking your pickup coil.( The 2 wire sensor in side of your distributor. The The igniter will not allow the coil to fire with out reference form the pickup coil. Coil has primary and secondary resistances. when the primary coil powers up and then pulses off, this cause a high voltage due to magnetic degeneration. Check the coils primary and secondary resitances along with the air gap in the pickup coil, and also check the resitances on the pickup coil. If i am right your igniter will be okay.Get a good manual for you truck, It will save you money down the road.
Toyota does not have at test proseger for the ingiter.

Also check the wires in between the pickup coil and the igniter.
I hope this helped.

Check the coil wire from coil to distributor cap.