Question about Frigidaire Gallery GLEFM397DS Electric Kitchen Range
Good Afternoon Donna, thank you for your post!
Let's try resetting your range by either unplugging it or flipping the household circuit breaker off. It is important to wait approximately ten minutes and then turn the unit on. Is the unit still advising that the door is locked? An experienced service technician may need to further evaluate this issue if it was not resolved with the power reset. In this case, your unit may possibly be experiencing a communication problem with the EOC (Electronic Oven Control) and door latch assembly, or a potential wiring failure.
Posted on Sep 30, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Richard, sounds like you did all the pretests. You'll need a new display panel. When you work on it, be sure to cut the power.
Posted on Dec 13, 2007
SOURCE: frigidaire oven door locked
SOME RANGES ARE DESIGNED TO LOCK IF THE CONTROL SENSES A TEMPERATURE EXTREME. IF THERE IS A FAILURE OF THE SENSOR THAT MAKES THE CONTROL THINK THE TEMP IS UP, IT WILL LOCK THE DOOR TO PREVENT INJURY. REMOVE THE BACK PANEL AND FIND THE OVEN SENSOR LEADS COMING OUT THE BACK OF THE OVEN. DISCONNECT THE SENSOR AND CHECK THE RESISTANCE. AT ROOM TEMP IT SHOULD BE SOMEWHERE AROUND 1084 OHMS. IF IT IS NOT CLOSE,
THE SENSOR IS BAD. PLUG IN A NEW SENSOR AT THAT CONNECTOR AND THE DOOR SHOULD UNLOCK. THEN GET INSIDE THE OVEN, REMOVE THE OLD SENSOR, AND REPLACE IT WITH THE ONE PLUGGED IN.
Posted on Apr 04, 2008
Hello all with this oven not working problem!!! I had this happen and I found exactly what causes this to fail. The circuits operate in the following manner... The oven is controlled by a double pole single throw heavy relay (wired as a single pole single throw or simple off/on relay) that supplies power to 2 other relays.. The oven relay is a double pole double throw relay (6 contacts 12 volt coil, ) it is normally open circuit, that is when the main relay turns on the power goes to the oven relay but no further. The other sie of the oven relay is wired to a second relay connected to the broil element that is normally open circuit with the other side of the DPDT relay going to Leg 2 120 volts. So in normal off mode the broiler is connected to the one side of the relay, common is connected to Leg 2 and the other side of the relay is connected to the other side of the oven relay.
SO when you call for the Bake Oven element, the power goes through the main relay to the oven relay, the oven relay clicks and now connects the oven relay to the set of contacts on the broiler relay that is connected to Leg 2- now the oven turns on. When you ask for broil the oven relay turns off and the broiler relay tirns on connecting the broiler to leg 2 (bypassing the oven relay.
I know its long winded but basically to operate the oven the power goes through 3 relays where the broiler only uses 2 of the relays (not the oven relay) Kinda dumb way to do it I suppose BUT the idea is to never have a situation where the oven and broiler can be on at the same time.
Heres what happened with my oven.. the broiler relay failed (broke internally) and the common contact shorted across both of the other terminals momentarily turning on BOTH elements, the sudden inrush of current literally exploded the output contact on the main relay and vaporizing the lead, trace and solder joint.
It was a mess... badly burned.. I found a new relay (omron) to replace the main relay.. but the other 2 were Omrons that I could not find replacements for (12 volt coils is the issue) So I did find some potter brumfield relays that were rated 10 amps per pole so I wired these externally from the timer board (ran wires to them) (doubled up so each relay was using both sides in parallel so it can handle 20 amps) The elements only use about 8 amps each anyways this worked great and since the new relays are on spade terminals with quick disconnects, are easy to swap out of they fry again (doubtful) Its a forgone conclusion these timers are ready to fry at any time and I can almost guarantee the WILL blow.. the relays arent very heavy duty at all... I would not buy another of these.. pretty weak control.. expecially these small relays.
Good luck in your repair.. a new timer was 300 my repair was 50 and WILL NOT fail like theirs did.
Posted on Dec 28, 2008
Your oven ignitor has gone out. This is located under the pan in the bottom of the oven. This is held in with 2 screws in the back portion of the pan. This will expose the ignitor and then 2 screws take it out. Replace this and this will fix it. very common problem
Posted on Feb 11, 2009
SOURCE: Frigidaire---oven door locks.
On my Frigidaire electric range with flat screen front controls, when the "Clean" control was accidentally pushed and the door locked, I could not unlock the door by cutting power, by running the clean mode for 30 seconds then pushing "Clear", or by hitting any button. What opened the door was holding down the "Clear" button for 30 seconds until the range started beeping and code "F11" read on the led. This worked. Good luck with yours.
Posted on Jan 27, 2010
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Thank you for your inquiry, longbowshoot!
I see that you would like to lock the door on your Frigidaire range. Normally, the oven door will lock once the self-clean cycle has been started. The model number you have provided 37BAW*5 is not pulling up as a valid model number. Are you attempting to lock your control panel? If so I need your model number to further review steps on locking your door. You can locate the serial tag (which lists your model number) behind the lower drawer of your range. I look forward to assisting you. -Matt
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